View Poll Results: Aux Trans Cooler, bypass or in series?
Bypass 18 41.86%
Bypass
18 41.86%
In Series 25 58.14%
In Series
25 58.14%
Voters: 43. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-03-2021, 03:32 PM #16
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As long as you have a new radiator either way is fine as long as you are actually monitoring temps. I had a brand new radiator but I freaked myself out with a reading of 249 degrees hard climbing in heat so I added smallish stacked-plate Tru-Cool in series because that was better option to plumb for my setup and the hose I had. I also popped in a Magnefine filter at the same time. I cannot get the trans to top 200 degrees now under the same conditions. It runs at 150-160 on the highway now and I'm more worried about under-heating tranny oil when I warm the engine up now (it's always something). Also I need to add some more TF because I've added to the systems capacity with everything plus a loop of hose to place the filter where i wanted it. These systems do have odd spikes and drops for no apparent reason....
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:04 AM #17
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i ran bypassed when I lived in the lower 48. After moving here , about mid-way into my first winter I went back to in series to keep trans temps warmer. I use the torque pro app and do watch my temps. I beleive overheating your trans is bad, but I have also read running too cool is not good either. I run full synthetic in all the boxes and engine .
My new to me 4runner, will get a new radiator installed ( sitting on shelf) and a magnafine filter...but I wont be going with an extranl cooler.
so I think it really depends on your location and how you use it.
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Old 08-04-2021, 03:15 AM #18
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how many in this forum who properly maintained the cooling system has experienced the pink milkshake?


just wanted to know if the pink milkshake has something to do with a poorly maintained cooling system. reason is that i read somewhere that the coolant becomes acidic or corrosive if it is not replaced regularly in accordance with the coolant manufacturer's recommendations.
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Old 08-04-2021, 08:52 AM #19
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Tranny Cooler: Bypass or In-Series

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Originally Posted by HiluxSurf SSR-G View Post
how many in this forum who properly maintained the cooling system has experienced the pink milkshake?


just wanted to know if the pink milkshake has something to do with a poorly maintained cooling system. reason is that i read somewhere that the coolant becomes acidic or corrosive if it is not replaced regularly in accordance with the coolant manufacturer's recommendations.

I almost had it.

Since I had just gotten the 97 Limited Puppy Hauler (it has its own thread) I was doing a routine of dumping the trans fluid every two weeks or so. One of those times I had milky streaks in the atf in the drain pan.

So I got a True-Cool 4589 and bypassed the factory Rad. It’s big and I had to relocate the horns.

A few years later I put head gaskets on it with fresh heads and installed a new rad. I pulled the old one apart and there are aluminum adapters that thread onto the internal cooler and seal to the lower plastic rad tank. The aluminum was just starting to corrode and allow antifreeze past the threads and into the ATF.


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Old 08-04-2021, 09:37 AM #20
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Some interesting thoughts for sure. I’ll hook up the blue driver next time I’m out with it to see the temps are. Maybe if I can talk the wife into holding the laptop I’ll run a full data log with my AutoEnginuity setup to plot out temps at various points in the drive cycle. If guys are hitting 250+ the oil isn’t going to live long that’s for sure. That’s pretty dang hot though. You can usually smell or feel what’s going on by that point in my experience (with other vehicles).

Just out of curiosity, are you guys that are seeing high temps, are you just letting the transmission govern itself entirely when your seeing temperatures in the 250+ range? Because sure, if your floating between torque converter lockup and the never ending up down up down shift cycle in a load situation I could see were heat could be an issue. But why not just utilize the proper gear, OD lockout, ECT mode or 4lo for the given situation? It’s an “automatic” obviously, but there’s nothing wrong with driving it manually as needed.

Another thought is the guys that are having temp issues, are you running a plate bumper with less air flow through the cooling stack? Big tires on stick gears?

I still of the opinion that assuming the system is in proper working order and not full of trash and bugs, and geared accordingly, I’m not sure extra cooling is needed. These 3rd gens all seem to have a pile of miles on them, mine included, with so little issues it’s not even funny. Course, I went though the E4OD, 4R100, 47RE diesel truck days so it’s all relative…. Man that was a joke. Transmissions every 5 minutes it seemed like.

But to be fair I haven’t actually monitored the transmission temp, so I will test my sample of one out and report back. I push my rig pretty hard though. I treat it like a side by side with air conditioning from the moment it leaves the house. She gets drove though, no trailer queens here.
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Old 08-04-2021, 11:17 AM #21
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Romeo1 my 47rh has 190,000 on it and still chirps the tires in the 1-2 upshift WOT.

Flashing the torque converter is the only heat source in an automatic. Locked it will run cold and unlocked temp wise the sky is the limit. I’ve driven home on a hot summer day many times on my 32mile drive and temp gunned my oil pan and read 130f.

I care more about what the temp of the ATF is in the oil pan over what the temp is coming out of the trans cause it’s gonna be hot if you’re working it unlocked under load.


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Old 08-04-2021, 11:49 AM #22
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I put a temp gauge in the output to the cooler, so coming straight out of the torque converter I believe, should be the hottest temps in the system. I do run it in series to try and moderate the temps of the fluid in the trans itself. Many times in the winter/spring hwy driving, the gauge is barely reading anything at all, 90 or less (gauge will only read over 80). Having that radiator (new) in the system will keep the fluid temps up closer to a preferred operating temp. I do baby it offroad and am usually running in 4Lo to keep the temps down (usually ~25-30 degrees lower), sucks in the fuel though.
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Old 08-04-2021, 02:17 PM #23
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Just out of curiosity, are you guys that are seeing high temps, are you just letting the transmission govern itself entirely when your seeing temperatures in the 250+ range? Because sure, if your floating between torque converter lockup and the never ending up down up down shift cycle in a load situation I could see were heat could be an issue. But why not just utilize the proper gear, OD lockout, ECT mode or 4lo for the given situation? It’s an “automatic” obviously, but there’s nothing wrong with driving it manually as needed.
Couple notes...

The factory trans fluid sensor is on the outlet of the trans - so it is the hottest fluid temp that the trans fluid sees. If you are used to 'pan' temps, they will be hotter than you are used to. That is also why there is a near immediate (maybe 10-20 seconds?) drop of ~20*F whenever the torque converter locks up at speed.

Also note that the A340 only locks the converter in top gear (4th for OD on, 3rd for OD off). So, at low speeds, not mater what manual shifting you do, it can't really help trans temps. 4LO really helps though, since it reduces torque load on the trans/torque converter by so much.

I have a new(ish) radiator, so I have my trans cooler plumbed in series with the stock radiator cooler. I also have a thermostat on there, plumbed to bypass both the OEM cooler and aftermarket cooler. Trans temps warm up fairly quick (haven't tried below freezing yet) and stay in the 170-200*F range almost exclusively. Higher end when torque converter is unlocked and lower end when unlocked.

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Old 08-04-2021, 04:04 PM #24
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Fluid control thermostat

Ran my bypass with in line fluid control thermostat. stays closed until 180 degrees and then opens up. works for me most of the time my temps are in the 175-190. I've seen up to 215-220 ish but as soon as you let off the tras cooler brings the temp down fast.
I've had mine on for a year and a half and no issues

You want the Tras temps in the optimal range too cold is not good for it.


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Old 08-05-2021, 07:19 PM #25
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Boy, this forum sure knows how to send me into a rabbit hole of research...

This thread had me concerned that my OBDII temp through the Torque app that are usually between 130-150F is hurting my nearly 300k mile transmission. Just found this quote from Jeffrey Diamond:

"In general, there is no danger of over-cooling the fluid"

Performance modifications for the Supra and Toyota A340E Automatic Transmission

I'm tempted to get either a 160 or 185 thermostat, but I'm curious just how bad consistent lower temps are?
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Old 08-05-2021, 07:52 PM #26
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My local trans shop stopped putting those thermostats on because of the failure rate they had with them.

So I’ve never used them.


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Old 08-06-2021, 01:16 PM #27
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I'm tempted to get either a 160 or 185 thermostat, but I'm curious just how bad consistent lower temps are?
If you keep up on fluid changes (normal factory schedule, maybe every 30k, right?) I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it is shifting normally for you, that is - that would be the only real possible issue with over cooling.

Warmer fluid will be better for efficiency, which may or may not be an issue for you. (I like the idea of efficiency, so that was part of my decision process, even if it never actually pay off)

-Charlie
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Old 08-06-2021, 02:31 PM #28
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Boy, this forum sure knows how to send me into a rabbit hole of research...

This thread had me concerned that my OBDII temp through the Torque app that are usually between 130-150F is hurting my nearly 300k mile transmission. Just found this quote from Jeffrey Diamond:

"In general, there is no danger of over-cooling the fluid"

Performance modifications for the Supra and Toyota A340E Automatic Transmission

I'm tempted to get either a 160 or 185 thermostat, but I'm curious just how bad consistent lower temps are?
The 160 won't help as much as you think. I have a 170 in mine and it heats up right past 170 and into the 190's low 200's in the summer. All it means is that it opens sooner, doesn't actually increase the cooling capacity. It will mean you will run colder in the winter though. I hardly ever touch over 170 in the winter which means my heater doesn't work as good as others.

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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
If you keep up on fluid changes (normal factory schedule, maybe every 30k, right?) I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it is shifting normally for you, that is - that would be the only real possible issue with over cooling.

Warmer fluid will be better for efficiency, which may or may not be an issue for you. (I like the idea of efficiency, so that was part of my decision process, even if it never actually pay off)

-Charlie
Ha, maybe we'll get a 2% increase in fuel mileage! From 17 to 17.34 MPG! I was hoping the same thing when switching to full synthetic everything and, drum roll please, noticed no change. Oh well.
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Old 08-06-2021, 06:15 PM #29
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Ha, maybe we'll get a 2% increase in fuel mileage! From 17 to 17.34 MPG! I was hoping the same thing when switching to full synthetic everything and, drum roll please, noticed no change. Oh well.
Well, I do have a log of every gas fill up and maintenance/mod on the truck for the last >300k miles, so...

(it used to get 24-26mpg regularly when it was younger and 2WD, now it is more like 20mpg)

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Old 08-06-2021, 07:21 PM #30
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I ran mine in series and am glad I did. I wheel in Oregon and it's a lot of tight, hilly, low speed runs. With a new radiator and fresh fluids I was seeing 260 at times. Even with the cooler in series I see up to 230 or so at times. For that kind of work I'd definitely recommend doing it in serious... it also will warm the fluid in cold weather. Best of both worlds.
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