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Old 08-16-2021, 05:52 PM #16
Deej101 Deej101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skulking View Post
If you really don't want to deal with cutting and soldering the wire, you can just wrap it in electrical tape. Liquid electrical tape does also exist, but is messy. If you aren't comfortable soldering, but want something a little better than electrical tape, you can cut the wire fully in the location the tap was, strip both ends back and use a butt connector. The next best option would be using a self solder butt connector which is basically shrink wrap with a solder ring in the center and adhesive rings on on both ends. You cut and strip the wires, slide the connector over one end, give the wires a quick twist to hold them and slide the connector back so the solder covers the part where the wires are connected and use a heat gun to shrink the tube and melt the solder.
Oh, I like that last thing you mentioned. Off to Amazon! Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2021, 08:05 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deej101 View Post
I know such a product exists, does anyone know what I mean, and have used it?
I have used liquid electrical tape (I always have a bottle in my electrical kit) - though it can be messy like Skulking said (mostly because it takes a while to set up solid).

You only need to repair the wire if it was damaged by the tap. Otherwise, you just just need to make sure you re-insulate in whatever way you feel comfortable (electrical tape or liquid electrical tape).

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Old 08-17-2021, 03:49 AM #18
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I've used liquid electrical tape, I use it in my preferred method of joining wires together. When I needed to add my kill switch I would splay the ends of the wires together, apply solder and have it run between the wires for best connection, and then I would use liquid electrical tape to waterproof the solder point. It is a reliable and long lasting way of doing things, but the liquid electrical tape is messy because it never stops dribbling so you have to put something underneath the wires you will be using it on.

Another way of joining wires together is a spade connector (seen above). It is often used to join wires to the back of switches (OEMs use it too), but you can also use it to join two wires together. The downside is that you have to crimp it, which can take a bit of practice, and the connection isn't waterproof (there are spade connectors that use heat shrink but they aren't as common).

The last connection type commonly used in automotive electrical use is the butt connector. These connectors come in two variety, crimp or solder, but they accomplish the same thing. The butt connector is a tube of heat shrink with some way of joining the wires in the middle.

On the crimp kind (seen above) you have to shove the bare copper end of a wire into a metal tube in the middle of the connection, you then use a crimping tool to crush the metal tube down onto the wires to hold them in place an make a connection. You then heat the heat shrink to make the connection waterproof and stronger. I am not the best at crimping so I try and avoid this kind unless necessary.

The solder kind of butt connector is simpler to use, you push the 2 exposed copper wires together in the middle where there is a ring of solder, as you heat the heat shrink the solder will liquify and join the wires together. I don't use this kind because you cant make the solder flow in-between the wires, so the result isn't as ideal (this point is illustrated in this video).

Whatever connector you prefer is really a personal taste. All that matters is that in insulates the wires at the connection to prevent an unwanted path to ground, is reliable enough to hold up to years of vibration, and it should really be water proof. I discourage the method of twisting two wires together and using electrical tape to insulate them, its lazy, unreliable, and not waterproof. Not to be confused with wire wrapping on a PCB, that method is very sound but sadly now obsolete (below).

Last edited by Pyral; 08-17-2021 at 03:58 AM.
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Old 08-26-2021, 02:20 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyral View Post
To fix the issues with lighting and door checkers (after checking the fuses) I would do the same thing as before. Take continuity from the known fuse location of that circuit and make sure it still is connected to the end. If it doesn't have continuity then follow the wire up until you find an issue. If it does have continuity then check the voltage values and investigate whether you have bulbs that are burned out.
Guess what (at least some of) it turned out to be? A broken door sensor switch! My courtesy lights (what a weird name) now all work properly, and the door ajar dash light is gone.

There are still some console/dash lighting issues that need troubleshooting, but progress is being made, thanks for the input.
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Old 08-26-2021, 02:32 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyral View Post
The solder kind of butt connector is simpler to use, you push the 2 exposed copper wires together in the middle where there is a ring of solder, as you heat the heat shrink the solder will liquify and join the wires together. I don't use this kind because you cant make the solder flow in-between the wires, so the result isn't as ideal (this point is illustrated in this video).
I love that guy's videos, thanks for linking it.

While he makes a valid point about the superiority of soldering properly, I'm thinking the connector with the solder in the center is probably sufficient for what I'd be doing--especially if there won't be any stress put on the wire to test the connection. But who knows, if I become competent with a new mini cordless digital soldering iron sitting in my Amazon cart, I may start looking to solder everything I see, lol.
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