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Old 08-26-2021, 08:02 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clanofwolves View Post
I don't know either, but a new MOOG joint is $19, so I went that way. The local machine shop pressed it out and installed the new one for $30, and I thought that quite a good deal as I'd have to use a hammer and some joint support blocks made of wood laying around and be on my knees in the heat more than likely...

Ok very good. Looking forward to hearing any updates after a couple hundred or maybe a thousand miles. Best of luck!
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Old 08-26-2021, 01:18 PM #17
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Is there any use in cleaning that up really well and then pumping the zerk fittings full of new grease to see if you can bring it back to life? (I don't know the answer.)
The OEM 2WD u-joints are non-serviceable (no grease zerks). Aftermarket joints will most likely have zerks.

That said, pumping it full of grease probably won't fix a bad joint for long - but it is useful for checking if the joint is the problem (pump it up, vibes go away for 100 miles - that's your culprit).

-Charlie
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Old 08-26-2021, 05:11 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
The OEM 2WD u-joints are non-serviceable (no grease zerks). Aftermarket joints will most likely have zerks.

That said, pumping it full of grease probably won't fix a bad joint for long - but it is useful for checking if the joint is the problem (pump it up, vibes go away for 100 miles - that's your culprit).

-Charlie
Well, the new universal sure is smooth, until you install it and drive it, and that shake is still in the truck despite the joints all working to spec. So I guess her driveshaft liner has given up? Any way to check that or simply replace and see?
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Old 08-27-2021, 01:19 PM #19
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Well, the new universal sure is smooth, until you install it and drive it, and that shake is still in the truck despite the joints all working to spec. So I guess her driveshaft liner has given up? Any way to check that or simply replace and see?
You can take it to a driveline shop and have them check for balance, or just order a new one. Any driveline shop should be able to do it, or you can even get them from RockAuto... (make sure to get the correct V6 auto 2WD shaft)

-Charlie
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Old 08-27-2021, 04:30 PM #20
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Even if you have a driveshaft thats not perfect, I can't see you feeling it in the steering wheel...
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Old 09-12-2021, 03:10 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
You can take it to a driveline shop and have them check for balance, or just order a new one. Any driveline shop should be able to do it, or you can even get them from RockAuto... (make sure to get the correct V6 auto 2WD shaft)

-Charlie
It looks like that isn't the issue, especially since the OEM shaft is only 6 years and 40 thousand miles since its install.
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Old 09-12-2021, 03:10 PM #22
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Even if you have a driveshaft thats not perfect, I can't see you feeling it in the steering wheel...
I agree...
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Old 09-12-2021, 03:13 PM #23
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It's not the driveshaft, or so says a Toyota mechanic that checked it out for my daughter when she had it at a friends house. She told me he stated it is "either a wheel bearing or the rear end." She said he heard a clicking when either wheel spun when he had the rear of the truck elevated. She said the shop he works at could diagnose it for $100. She scheduled to take it in on Wednesday.

I'm thinking I'll jack her up again and check for any play in the wheels (there is no leaking of rear end oil now nor ever).

I'll also drain the rear and check for metal filings in that oil, then refill with new.

What do you guys think?
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Old 09-16-2021, 09:44 PM #24
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I'd be interested to hear what they find if you don't find it when you check the rear.
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Old 09-17-2021, 12:22 PM #25
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Quote:
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I'd be interested to hear what they find if you don't find it when you check the rear.
The right rear bearing was coming apart and a few pieces were even found in the rear end oil that was evacuated and flushed. It's all back together with all new parts at and around the wheel bearings left and right side. The clicking is gone, but the whirl vibration at highway speed hasn't changed.

Weird thing is, she just got a new set of tires post changing out the rear bearings thinking the cupped rubber on the inside of the one tire was the culprit, but the new tires didn't change anything. Interestingly the cupped rubber lugs were on the left side tire whereas the bad bearing was on the right side. So now I'm wondering if the cupping/road noise/vibration is from some other component? Or was the rear end gears compromised in some way by the metal particulates from the bad bearing, leading to a loosened or now damaged part that vibrates the chassis?

Well, "back to the drawings board, or.....?" ugg.

Thanks again for any thoughts!
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Last edited by clanofwolves; 09-18-2021 at 04:47 PM. Reason: words
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