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Old 08-24-2021, 08:57 PM #1
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Electrical Fire Smell now NO windows or locks

So I push my tab to un lock the truck and I smell an electrical fire smell. I don't think anything about it. The back door opens. Then I try to open the front and it's locked. Fob won't work. I get in, manually unlock the other doors, put down the front windows and start the car. The smell is getting worse. My wife points out the light white smoke coming from the dash area. I shut it down. The smell is huge now. I check under the hood and can't find anything. I start it up again and it runs fine, no warning lights.
Now all windows (back included) don't work. Locks don't work. Smells like awful. What's going on? I check fuses and they all look okay?
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Old 08-24-2021, 09:23 PM #2
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Electrical Fire Smell now NO windows or locks

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Originally Posted by HappyHooligan View Post
So I push my tab to un lock the truck and I smell an electrical fire smell. I don't think anything about it. The back door opens. Then I try to open the front and it's locked. Fob won't work. I get in, manually unlock the other doors, put down the front windows and start the car. The smell is getting worse. My wife points out the light white smoke coming from the dash area. I shut it down. The smell is huge now. I check under the hood and can't find anything. I start it up again and it runs fine, no warning lights.
Now all windows (back included) don't work. Locks don't work. Smells like awful. What's going on? I check fuses and they all look okay?

Yikes!! I donít know the answer, but Iíd personally consider disconnecting the negative battery terminal promptly and leaving it disconnected until you get some more answers..
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Old 08-24-2021, 10:21 PM #3
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So I push my tab to un lock the truck and I smell an electrical fire smell. I don't think anything about it. The back door opens. Then I try to open the front and it's locked. Fob won't work. I get in, manually unlock the other doors, put down the front windows and start the car. The smell is getting worse. My wife points out the light white smoke coming from the dash area. I shut it down. The smell is huge now. I check under the hood and can't find anything. I start it up again and it runs fine, no warning lights.
Now all windows (back included) don't work. Locks don't work. Smells like awful. What's going on? I check fuses and they all look okay?
Difinately a short. See if you can follow your nose to narrow it down. Driver door rubber loom would be a good start. Smoke from dashboard area look for burnt wires by the inside fuse box and behind the radio bezel.
Check 30a power fuse top right inside fuse block the'others'are in the engine bay ecu-ig fuse and mpx -b.
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Old 08-25-2021, 01:00 AM #4
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If an exposed wire touches something like a metal door panel, electricity will surge that wire because it offers the path of least resistance to ground. That excess electricity will heat up the wire and leads to that burnt smell. The fuse is meant to be an intentional weak link in your electrical system that will safely break connection in this event and prevent the continued surge of electricity to the shorted wire.

This is why you should never put a higher value fuse in as replacement, it is stronger than the weakest electrical component and therefore wont protect it if it malfunctions or experiences a power surge.

This is also why you should always add a fuse to any and all electrical mods. If a wire touches a ground point it will heat up and possible cause a fire and drain your battery.

You should disconnect the battery immediately regardless of whether your fuse has popped or not to be safe. Then inspect the fuses and start looking for culprits and areas where a wire could have shorted. Check where a wire might get stressed, like the wires that run into the door.
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Old 08-25-2021, 06:35 AM #5
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Do you have any aftermarket accessories such as an alarm system or remote start? If so, I'd start by tracing the wiring to them. Based on your description, when you do that, you'll find the burned mess pretty quickly. Do not drive the vehicle in the mean time.
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Old 08-25-2021, 09:18 AM #6
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Hope you're closer to figuring out what is shorting.
Disconnecting your battery and not parking in an enclosed garage with an energized electrical system is a good practice when going through an electrical issue.
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Old 08-31-2021, 02:46 PM #7
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short update. I just took it to my local shop. The cluster is out now and they're going to have to pull the whole dash too. The fuse box is toast. One ground going back is completely bare now and melted two wires next too it.

They don't know yet where it started. Following it back.

I'm going to need a new front fuse box and fuses... Who has one?

Also what does a full harness cost? Might be cheaper than following it the whole thing?

It's a 2000.
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Old 08-31-2021, 03:02 PM #8
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A used wiring harness can cost $200 depending on spec. A new one from Toyota probably cost way way way more if they even still have them in stock, which they might not.

But the bigger cost is likely in labor. On a modern vehicle it would be even more expensive to replace a wiring harness, but maybe not on 3rd gens. Especially if you already have the dash out.

I would salvage the old harness unless it looked like it was going to cost about as much as it would to replace it.
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Old 08-31-2021, 03:38 PM #9
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Quote:
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A used wiring harness can cost $200 depending on spec. A new one from Toyota probably cost way way way more if they even still have them in stock, which they might not.

But the bigger cost is likely in labor. On a modern vehicle it would be even more expensive to replace a wiring harness, but maybe not on 3rd gens. Especially if you already have the dash out.

I would salvage the old harness unless it looked like it was going to cost about as much as it would to replace it.
thanks. I'm thinking that too. They are taking out the full dash this week. Hopefully they find where it all happened.
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