I've already done some quick searching to diagnose what's wrong, the first thing I did was check if the brake lights work and they do. Then I read about the ECU-IG fuse, so I checked it and it's fine. Then I did the jumper wire on the diagnostic port to get the ABS light flashes to find the code. When I do this, the cruise light blinks like I've seen in videos, but the VSC and ABS lights do not turn off and start blinking. My guess would be I'm probably doing something wrong unless this does indicate a specific problem. The last time I drove it was just last week and it was fine then. Been sitting in the driveway since.

An update: Just decided to drive it around the block just to see if driving is effected at all. The speedometer is not working, along with the lights being on. I am at a loss.

This might help
Speedometer/Odometer Not Working + Related Warning Lights (P0500)

Against my warnings, my dad decided he would like to take it to a dealership for them to diagnose it. Even though they did a good job fixing my brakes a while ago, this time they decided that they want $7000 to replace the instrument panel and the brake booster (???) before they try to replace the ABS control module. I'm convinced its the ABS control module based on all the threads I've read but I can't find any information on how to replace it. All I've found is people mentioning it's on the driver side foot well.

Remove 4 plug-in connectors, two mounting bolts, reverse for install.
There is two versions of module 15" wheels 16" wheels, part number is on module.
Removing panel below steering wheel helps.

agree with above.....go to a pick and pull and get the correct ABS module and try it. The brake booster is not cheap for 2001 and 2002, esp at a dealer...they are gold... but you can get used ones on flea bay....and rebuilts for not so bad a price ( cant remember who sells the rebuilt booster with master cylinder, you can google search but they are still about 4x the price of a 96-2000 master with booster) and not that hard of a job to replace and there are videos how to do it without the special toyota scan tool for the master cylinder bleed job.
there is also a guy who used to be on this forum a lot....went by name death cougar....on facebook he is PNW Connection I think...i can look it up if needed....but he parts out 4 runners as his main income...in the past he has had hard to find parts at a good price for me anyway.

look in the 4sale section of this forum too

this particuar link wont help....but can get you in the right direction for your location...it is a most over looked part of this forum i think. YOu can look up your state and town and find people that can help and have similar interests.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/alaska-and-hawaii/
i

When new there is a rubber foot pad for your left foot attached to carpet
module is roughly 8-10" above, you have big feet you'll kick module.

Mine lasted 222,268 miles, debated used rebuilt new, buy once cry once on this for me.
Anything to do with system pressure loss you lose your brakes, nearly browned My shorts when it happened.
Hammer to pump motor got it running = worn brushes not self adjusting, worked couple times.
I'll be good for 200k mi soon, arrived Thursday.

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I talked with the technician from the dealership when I went to go pick it up the other day. We decided to take it in to the dealer a while ago for some brake work because they were all messed up and they did a really good job fixing it up and even gave us a discount on the price. If something was wrong with the brake booster or master cylinder then it probably would have been discovered then. Not only that, it turns out that he didn't think it was the ABS control module that was wrong, he thought it was the ECU. The ECU! If I let them do all the work they wanted it would have been $8000+ and wouldn't have actually fixed the problem. Stealership indeed. This makes yet another time I've started a thread that ends in a dealership or other shop being awful. I got an ABS control module on eBay after checking the model number and getting the right one.

I battled this for three years trying many things finally ended up replacing the entire unit was around 1600 bucks from the dealership.


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The ABS control module arrived today and as expected, after I finished putting it in everything was back to normal. What was dealer thinking wanting to do $8000 of work? An unexpected bonus from doing this replacement is that I noticed the air duct that runs behind that dash panel wasn't seated properly to the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. That vent had actually not been blowing out much air for a long time now, I just figured it's a 20 year old so who cares. All I had to do was put it back together.