09-01-2021, 05:16 PM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Signs of A340F transmission going out
My transmission has about 200,000 miles on it currently and is starting to have some hard shifts pretty often. When I down shift it’s not always the smoothest coming out of 4th gear. Has anyone experienced this before and is it something that can be fixed? I’ve done a couple drain and fills and tried adjusting the kick down cable but neither has helped. It has never not shifted or lost a gear. Is it time for a rebuild/new transmission? Or just a flush and maybe new solenoids and a filter. Also, when coming to a complete stop, after letting off the brake petal, it clunks. Almost like it doesn’t shift all the way back down to 1st gear before coming to a stop.
Anything helps, thank you.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 10:07 AM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,339
Real Name: Mike
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 2,339
Real Name: Mike
|
Make sure the fluid is at the correct level and the fluid itself is in good condition. How did the fluid look when you started replacing it?
To properly check the level, take the truck on a 20 minute drive, preferably in town/city so you are stopping and going a bunch. Then park the truck on a level surface and leave it running. Shift between each gear and leave it in each gear for 5 seconds. Once you have gone through all of the gears, put it back in park and check the fluid level. The fluid should be at the top of the "hot" mark on the dipstick. Adjust the level accordingly if needed.
It wouldn't hurt to drop the pan and see how it looks. Other things you can try is replacing the filter and solenoids. Beyond that, there really isn't much more you can do.
The 96-00 transmissions are pretty bullet proof. The 01-02s are a little more prone to failure because of planetary gear failure.
If after everything is clean/new it still shifts hard, just keep in mind that you may need to replace/rebuild the tranny at some point.
Good luck
__________________
1997 SR5 4x4 Auto, 99' tall coils up front, OME 906's, Truetrac LSD, Airaid MIT
1999 SR5 4x4 Auto for parts
2011 Camry SE V6
2011 Highlander Limited
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 10:39 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,151
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,151
|
What product did you drain/fill with?
My nasty 01 had a significant whine in 1st and 2nd, less so in 3rd. Dropped pan, changed filter and refilled with valvoline full synth import. Still had whine for a couple thousand miles then it just went away, hmm. Wasn't expecting that but it shifts firmly up, smoothly down. Just a thought, sometimes more fluid changes can help, so now I try not to wait 100k like I did this time, ugg.
__________________
2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 11:20 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
Typically when a transmission starts failing you get slipping, longer shifts, spongy shifts and not firmer shifts. Try loosening your line pressure control cable (commonly mistaken for the "kick down cable")
__________________
2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 01:14 PM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
Make sure the fluid is at the correct level and the fluid itself is in good condition. How did the fluid look when you started replacing it?
To properly check the level, take the truck on a 20 minute drive, preferably in town/city so you are stopping and going a bunch. Then park the truck on a level surface and leave it running. Shift between each gear and leave it in each gear for 5 seconds. Once you have gone through all of the gears, put it back in park and check the fluid level. The fluid should be at the top of the "hot" mark on the dipstick. Adjust the level accordingly if needed.
It wouldn't hurt to drop the pan and see how it looks. Other things you can try is replacing the filter and solenoids. Beyond that, there really isn't much more you can do.
The 96-00 transmissions are pretty bullet proof. The 01-02s are a little more prone to failure because of planetary gear failure.
If after everything is clean/new it still shifts hard, just keep in mind that you may need to replace/rebuild the tranny at some point.
Good luck
|
Thank you for your input. I checked the fluid level and it’s just barely above the top of the hot. I will make sure to measure it more accurately when I add the cooler. When I started replacing the fluid it was dark. But when wiped on a paper towel, was still red. I am going to open the pan next week. Mine is a 2000 so hopefully it just needs some adjusting. I also noticed that driving around town, the transmission would get up to 240 degrees…
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 01:16 PM
|
#6
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
What product did you drain/fill with?
My nasty 01 had a significant whine in 1st and 2nd, less so in 3rd. Dropped pan, changed filter and refilled with valvoline full synth import. Still had whine for a couple thousand miles then it just went away, hmm. Wasn't expecting that but it shifts firmly up, smoothly down. Just a thought, sometimes more fluid changes can help, so now I try not to wait 100k like I did this time, ugg.
|
I used valvoline maxlife atf. The red bottle. I have no whine whatsoever… which is why I still have hope.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 01:19 PM
|
#7
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
Typically when a transmission starts failing you get slipping, longer shifts, spongy shifts and not firmer shifts. Try loosening your line pressure control cable (commonly mistaken for the "kick down cable")
|
I’ve messed with it a couple of times, but I’ll give it a shot again. It seems to not like to downshift completely when coming to a stop when it’s loose. How directly related to the throttle cable is the line pressure control cable? Is it possible for one of them to be too tight/loose and is just messing everything up?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 01:52 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanroyse
I’ve messed with it a couple of times, but I’ll give it a shot again. It seems to not like to downshift completely when coming to a stop when it’s loose. How directly related to the throttle cable is the line pressure control cable? Is it possible for one of them to be too tight/loose and is just messing everything up?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
The only thing that cable controls is line pressure in the transmission which determines how firm or soft your shifts are and will also increase line pressure as throttle position increases. If it's too tight it will give you very firm and hard shifts even at lower throttle. Try loosening it an 1/8" and seeing if that changes anything.
__________________
2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 02:22 PM
|
#9
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
The only thing that cable controls is line pressure in the transmission which determines how firm or soft your shifts are and will also increase line pressure as throttle position increases. If it's too tight it will give you very firm and hard shifts even at lower throttle. Try loosening it an 1/8" and seeing if that changes anything.
|
Okay. Will do. I just read through the factory service manual and found the transmission testing parts and will do all of those as instructed and see what I can find out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 03:05 PM
|
#10
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,336
Real Name: Jerod
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,336
Real Name: Jerod
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
The only thing that cable controls is line pressure in the transmission which determines how firm or soft your shifts are and will also increase line pressure as throttle position increases. If it's too tight it will give you very firm and hard shifts even at lower throttle. Try loosening it an 1/8" and seeing if that changes anything.
|
Yes, there's a little knob in the cable at the throttle body that indicates the tightness (or looseness) of the line. I actually prefer mine a tad bit overtightened which does result in firmer shifts, especially the 4th to 3rd downshift under heavy throttle.
I also highly recommend a quality synthetic fluid. Redline is very popular, I went with Royal Purple and got similarly great results. Much softer shifts and better transmission operation. It really is a win-win and beats out even OEM Toyota transmission fluid.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 04:18 PM
|
#11
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Age: 46
Posts: 71
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Age: 46
Posts: 71
|
Been a while since I flushed mine, but I used mobil 1 synthetic. If you are planning on dropping the pan to clean the magnets and filter. You may want to consider replacing the solenoids also.
__________________
SAS 97 4runner / Bone stock 2005 4runner / aka "Kurtfab"
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 04:53 PM
|
#12
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Yes, there's a little knob in the cable at the throttle body that indicates the tightness (or looseness) of the line. I actually prefer mine a tad bit overtightened which does result in firmer shifts, especially the 4th to 3rd downshift under heavy throttle.
I also highly recommend a quality synthetic fluid. Redline is very popular, I went with Royal Purple and got similarly great results. Much softer shifts and better transmission operation. It really is a win-win and beats out even OEM Toyota transmission fluid.
|
Okay. I know what you’re talking about and I will adjust it. When I flush my fluid I will also refill with Royal Purple. Which one did you use?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 04:54 PM
|
#13
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: California
Posts: 134
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by vegask
Been a while since I flushed mine, but I used mobil 1 synthetic. If you are planning on dropping the pan to clean the magnets and filter. You may want to consider replacing the solenoids also.
|
Are the solenoids hard to get to? Is it okay to change them yourself?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-02-2021, 07:56 PM
|
#14
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanroyse
Are the solenoids hard to get to? Is it okay to change them yourself?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
There are on the valve body with wire going to them, you can't miss them.
Shift solenoid code
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-03-2021, 06:02 AM
|
#15
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: CenCal
Posts: 7
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: CenCal
Posts: 7
|
My 96 trans went out and I did experience hard shifts when driving hard or in the hills. And It was shifting extremely hard right before it completely let go.
After the rebuild I installed a temp guage and with the temp spikes I was seeing learned very quickly I probably cooked it. I then installed a trans cooler and have now never seen it above 180
So +1 on temp guage and cooler after a good flush
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|