User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 09-17-2021, 09:31 AM #16
Romeo1's Avatar
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
Romeo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
What didn’t you like about the way the kings were valved?
__________________
99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
Romeo1 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-17-2021, 09:46 AM #17
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
Don’t fight it. Just go with the overland custom design links. I’ve beaten the crap out of mine and they just keep doing what they’re supposed to do which is borrow rate and not break.
Those are on the shopping list but for now I put stock length ones back on the front and replaced all the bushings with OE rubber ones and it seems better. I think the front sway bar is actually bent slightly because I can see it kind of twist the brackets when I was bolting them on, and the bar hits the frame on one sids before the other side when not connected to the links. I have the brackets on the correct sides but I ran them on the wrong sides by accident ones which I guess could have bent the bar.

Already have OE rubber bushings on the rear with no problems. I'm not going to ever use poly bushings on the sway bars or links again, I think the rubber plays a part in the borrow rate vs break thing. I could drive like a complete hoon with poly all around though, very flat driving on the road with 6112s. Especially with the bunch of positive caster it had before I put UCAs on, extremely controllable.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD

Last edited by repo; 09-17-2021 at 09:50 AM.
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-18-2021, 12:23 PM #18
Romeo1's Avatar
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
Romeo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Sitting here drinking coffee I had a thought come to me that may be relevant to people who read this thread in the future perhaps trying to decide on a suspension system.

I’ve never personally bought the super high end shocks on anything. Truck, car, snowmobile etc. but I’ve always had the better than average equipment.

One thing we tan into on snowmobiles for a long time was everyone wanting to run fox air shocks. Neat idea, but a bear to manage spring rates due to the extremely progressive nature of an air sprung shock, not to mention highly temperature sensitive. It was always hard to dial in. Either way too much rate for the pogo stick effect, or to little and it was boaty squishy city.

Another friend of mine spends a hilariously large sum regularly (well, technically expenses since he has a recreational vehicle business, but the money is never free…..) on shocks for sleds. The last super boojie set of raptors were so dang soft, it was like driving a jet ski around. Almost hard to ride really. Maybe about 10 years ago another friend has a fancy zbros setup. I forget if they were Elkas or what kind, but It was like riding on a half aired up raft. Super soggy, no confidence, and it wanted to drive into every tree well there was. Again, super Gucci with far too little rate and control.

Why does any of this even matter and what do sleds have to do with 4runners….. Rate is rate, and ride height is ride height.

I think there are applications that a custom valved system can absolutely dominate when the system is tuned properly especially in long travel systems. In a “longer” than stock travel system you have more head (travelroom to work with prior to being maxed out on travel.

The calling card of high end suspension systems seems to be comfort and ride quality which usually equates into lower rates to get there. The side effect of all that in my observations tends to be a very soft ride like arrangement that tends to bottom out very quickly when used in a stockish travel configuration.

I know that the purists will argue that digressive systems aren’t as good as a linear or progressive system in an all out application, and I’ll agree with them there. But I would argue assuming on stockish geometry/travel without going into the realm of long travel anything regardless of the vehicle type, that digressive fit the bill perfectly.

If you go look at any big travel systems whether it’s on a Can-Am or a trophy truck, the one commonality that seems to always be the case is multiple spring rates in their spring stacks. Sure in a multi rate system 2 foot long setup you can do all kinds of cool things. Bit in a single rate rather stockish system it’s too easy to go to far.

I’ve seen several king equipped rigs around town and it’s always the same. Just watch them go through an intersection or go around a corner. They always eat up half of the travel going through a storm gutter, or look like they’re going to roll over around a corner. Obviously I don’t know the full set up, they could have swaybar‘s unhooked, and not enough rate. Just a very casual observation that I’ve seen probably four or five times in the last year now while gassing up my work truck at the busiest intersection on town.

Short story long, I think it’s really important to evaluate what you’re trying to accomplish and what matters most. Obviously those blue shocks are absolutely sexy as hell. I think it’s just important to understand what you’re getting into so that you hopefully don’t end up disappointed or have a lot of drama to get them calibrated properly. It seems like the industry is trending toward all of this super off-road capable stuff that gets tuned for a street drive to maintain compliance on speed bumps which is a bit silly in my opinion. I realize that’s where 99% of the vehicles will live always, but then everybody gets stuck in that mindset.

I’ve never personally valved or rebuilt a set of shocks ever in my life, but I do understand the system, how it works, and how they’re built. If you’re in a high-performance application with a lot of travel, I think the custom systems make all the sense in the world assuming you’re willing to spend the time to get them correct. You’ll probably want more than one set of shocks around to do that well unless you can valve them yourself.

If you’re looking for a one and done OEM level of execution and for them to last a long time, I think some of the custom valved systems out there are not what a guy needs.

Look at the Ford raptor. I love seeing all these raptors around town and I highly doubt any of those shocks are getting service on the interval they’re supposed to be at. Look it up, you’ll be very surprised when you see what the interval is. Lots of guys stating online that they had low charge pressures at the 15-20k mile mark…..

Just some food for thought on a trip deep into the weeds.
__________________
99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
Romeo1 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-24-2021, 10:09 PM #19
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
I mean you dropped the coin for Kings….. I’d say a set of billies shouldn’t blow your budget.

I get your situation, but there’s a real possibility you’re going to have these kings removed in the future for servicing. Ya just as well have a good set of back ups. Heck, he may even find you like the backups better than the kings.
Well I dropped the coin for the kings and the coin is now gone... Haha. I can't justify spending $200 on shocks I may only use "sometimes". Hence why I said good enough shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanSchnobrich View Post
I've had my LC Tokicos on for about a half year now, I have no complaints and I think they'd work great for your needs. Like some folks said above, they can be a bit stiff with no added weight, but nothing unbearable. The price point is truly unbeatable, I say go for it!
Well my rear kings are currently EXTREMELY stiff...so anything less will feel better.
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-24-2021, 10:12 PM #20
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
The rears are EXTREMELY stiff. I mean, they have virtually zero give and just slam the back up in the air when I hit a bump. Basically feels like the back has 0.5" of travel.
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-24-2021, 10:24 PM #21
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
Sitting here drinking coffee I had a thought come to me that may be relevant to people who read this thread in the future perhaps trying to decide on a suspension system.

I’ve never personally bought the super high end shocks on anything. Truck, car, snowmobile etc. but I’ve always had the better than average equipment.

One thing we tan into on snowmobiles for a long time was everyone wanting to run fox air shocks. Neat idea, but a bear to manage spring rates due to the extremely progressive nature of an air sprung shock, not to mention highly temperature sensitive. It was always hard to dial in. Either way too much rate for the pogo stick effect, or to little and it was boaty squishy city.

Another friend of mine spends a hilariously large sum regularly (well, technically expenses since he has a recreational vehicle business, but the money is never free…..) on shocks for sleds. The last super boojie set of raptors were so dang soft, it was like driving a jet ski around. Almost hard to ride really. Maybe about 10 years ago another friend has a fancy zbros setup. I forget if they were Elkas or what kind, but It was like riding on a half aired up raft. Super soggy, no confidence, and it wanted to drive into every tree well there was. Again, super Gucci with far too little rate and control.

Why does any of this even matter and what do sleds have to do with 4runners….. Rate is rate, and ride height is ride height.

I think there are applications that a custom valved system can absolutely dominate when the system is tuned properly especially in long travel systems. In a “longer” than stock travel system you have more head (travelroom to work with prior to being maxed out on travel.

The calling card of high end suspension systems seems to be comfort and ride quality which usually equates into lower rates to get there. The side effect of all that in my observations tends to be a very soft ride like arrangement that tends to bottom out very quickly when used in a stockish travel configuration.

I know that the purists will argue that digressive systems aren’t as good as a linear or progressive system in an all out application, and I’ll agree with them there. But I would argue assuming on stockish geometry/travel without going into the realm of long travel anything regardless of the vehicle type, that digressive fit the bill perfectly.

If you go look at any big travel systems whether it’s on a Can-Am or a trophy truck, the one commonality that seems to always be the case is multiple spring rates in their spring stacks. Sure in a multi rate system 2 foot long setup you can do all kinds of cool things. Bit in a single rate rather stockish system it’s too easy to go to far.

I’ve seen several king equipped rigs around town and it’s always the same. Just watch them go through an intersection or go around a corner. They always eat up half of the travel going through a storm gutter, or look like they’re going to roll over around a corner. Obviously I don’t know the full set up, they could have swaybar‘s unhooked, and not enough rate. Just a very casual observation that I’ve seen probably four or five times in the last year now while gassing up my work truck at the busiest intersection on town.

Short story long, I think it’s really important to evaluate what you’re trying to accomplish and what matters most. Obviously those blue shocks are absolutely sexy as hell. I think it’s just important to understand what you’re getting into so that you hopefully don’t end up disappointed or have a lot of drama to get them calibrated properly. It seems like the industry is trending toward all of this super off-road capable stuff that gets tuned for a street drive to maintain compliance on speed bumps which is a bit silly in my opinion. I realize that’s where 99% of the vehicles will live always, but then everybody gets stuck in that mindset.

I’ve never personally valved or rebuilt a set of shocks ever in my life, but I do understand the system, how it works, and how they’re built. If you’re in a high-performance application with a lot of travel, I think the custom systems make all the sense in the world assuming you’re willing to spend the time to get them correct. You’ll probably want more than one set of shocks around to do that well unless you can valve them yourself.

If you’re looking for a one and done OEM level of execution and for them to last a long time, I think some of the custom valved systems out there are not what a guy needs.

Look at the Ford raptor. I love seeing all these raptors around town and I highly doubt any of those shocks are getting service on the interval they’re supposed to be at. Look it up, you’ll be very surprised when you see what the interval is. Lots of guys stating online that they had low charge pressures at the 15-20k mile mark…..

Just some food for thought on a trip deep into the weeds.

Really my main issue is that, to me, all of the shocks I've tried for 3rd gens are horrible. They all handle like like sports cars to me.

And when I say sports car, I mean they travel very little, they're extremely firm, and keep the wheels planted hardcore. Where is, to me, off-road trucks should be very plush and cushiony. I mean if you're going off road around trails you're going to be hitting a lot of bumps and uneven terrain, those bumps should not feel like concrete, I mean it's just not even enjoyable...

I specifically bought the Kings because everybody said that they were the best ride, and at this point I wasn't necessarily looking for the best but just looking for something that wasn't shit.

Tundra 5100 are entirely too soft
Third gen 5100s are too firm and also too short
Nitro chargers are way too firm
And so far my rear kings are the stiffest shocks I've ever felt.

Now the front kings are a different story, they actually feel pretty good and I think they would be perfect if I had 550 lb coils versus 600, or just some additional weight I guess.

But the rear shocks? I mean good God. I had gone by a few places that sold King shocks because I was curious if they had ever encountered them on a third gen 4Runner. I did find a shop where the guy had worked on one before although it had been many months. He actually walked out with me and jumped up on the rear bumper to shake the truck up and down and immediately was disgusted. "These are stiff as f***, holy shit" where the words that came out of his mouth.

And I can't remember if anyone asked, but I did find a place that let out some of the nitrogen and as far as we could tell it made absolutely no difference.

See when the front Kings hit a bump or drop into a hole or something like that it's firm but is cushioned, it's almost perfect honestly. When the rear wheels hit anything or drop into a hole I mean it's literally like a bomb going off. BAM.

There is a parking lot close to my house that has a speed bump that is laid out diagonally, as in your front right wheel will go over it completely before the left one touches it. It's actually kind of fun because each wheel walks over at one at a time... So with the front, they actually do their thing and there's very little body movement... But as soon as the rears make contact it immediately slams the truck over to one side. I mean I'm not kidding when I say they have no give.

The best way I can describe it is to imagine that you only had a half inch of travel, and as soon as you used up that entire half of an inch you just slammed into the frame. It's stiff as ****.
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-25-2021, 02:07 AM #22
Romeo1's Avatar
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
Romeo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Ya know, dumb question, but I’m going to ask. How much weight do you have in the rig on a regular basis? The 2906 coils might be a better fit than the 2890 you currently have.

Here’s the reason I ask. I always have lifetime rotomold heavy ass cooler with ice, full of water, beer and nonsense. Sometimes the big one even, recovery gear with a shovel, tire repair, all kinds of other stuff, xbull boards, a receiver hitch recovery, Arb twin portable, a full size Kanati 265/75 spare in the stock location, clothes, rifles and fishing poles and almost always 2 adults and 3 kids, and a dog these days……. I’ve never ever even felt the slightest need for the 2890 coil. My 2906 has always been more than enough spring rate and ride height. The front might be .25” higher, if even that. There’s never any hint of sag at all. I can go jump on the back of the rig and it still supports it well.

I have a feeling you might have the wrong coils for the job. Spring rate and ride heights are the major force in the equation. The shocks job is to dampen, not providing the lion share of the spring rate or ride height.
__________________
99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
Romeo1 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-26-2021, 11:03 AM #23
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Really my main issue is that, to me, all of the shocks I've tried for 3rd gens are horrible. They all handle like like sports cars to me.

And when I say sports car, I mean they travel very little, they're extremely firm, and keep the wheels planted hardcore. Where is, to me, off-road trucks should be very plush and cushiony. I mean if you're going off road around trails you're going to be hitting a lot of bumps and uneven terrain, those bumps should not feel like concrete, I mean it's just not even enjoyable...

I specifically bought the Kings because everybody said that they were the best ride, and at this point I wasn't necessarily looking for the best but just looking for something that wasn't shit.

Tundra 5100 are entirely too soft
Third gen 5100s are too firm and also too short
Nitro chargers are way too firm
And so far my rear kings are the stiffest shocks I've ever felt.

Now the front kings are a different story, they actually feel pretty good and I think they would be perfect if I had 550 lb coils versus 600, or just some additional weight I guess.

But the rear shocks? I mean good God. I had gone by a few places that sold King shocks because I was curious if they had ever encountered them on a third gen 4Runner. I did find a shop where the guy had worked on one before although it had been many months. He actually walked out with me and jumped up on the rear bumper to shake the truck up and down and immediately was disgusted. "These are stiff as f***, holy shit" where the words that came out of his mouth.

And I can't remember if anyone asked, but I did find a place that let out some of the nitrogen and as far as we could tell it made absolutely no difference.

See when the front Kings hit a bump or drop into a hole or something like that it's firm but is cushioned, it's almost perfect honestly. When the rear wheels hit anything or drop into a hole I mean it's literally like a bomb going off. BAM.

There is a parking lot close to my house that has a speed bump that is laid out diagonally, as in your front right wheel will go over it completely before the left one touches it. It's actually kind of fun because each wheel walks over at one at a time... So with the front, they actually do their thing and there's very little body movement... But as soon as the rears make contact it immediately slams the truck over to one side. I mean I'm not kidding when I say they have no give.

The best way I can describe it is to imagine that you only had a half inch of travel, and as soon as you used up that entire half of an inch you just slammed into the frame. It's stiff as ****.
Try loosening and re-torqing all the rear arm bushings and the panhard bushings at ride height. And the rear becomes skippy without adjusting the panhard bar to pull it back in line. Also try test driving it with the rear sway bar removed and see if it feels different. Do you have sway/link poly bushings? They really push the wheels down hard in my experience from stiffening the twist rate like a sports car. And the end link length affects the leverage on it too.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD

Last edited by repo; 09-26-2021 at 11:06 AM.
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-26-2021, 11:46 AM #24
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
I like the 890s better than 906. They 890 are less stiff. I started with 906, then 906 + 10mm spacers, then 890, then 890 + 10mm spacers because I like having about 1" of rake unloaded. I have the heavy cooler, compressor, etc in the back too. Plus spare tire, towbar.

It is harsh at slow speed though, like the 0.5" of travel thing mentioned. But soaks it up fine at speed, stuff that you'd cringe at the thought of hitting with stock setup. So it's almost opposite of stock. But that's most of the kind of driving I do around here.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 12:15 AM #25
Romeo1's Avatar
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
Romeo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.
__________________
99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
Romeo1 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 12:59 AM #26
jross20's Avatar
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
jross20 jross20 is offline
Senior Member
jross20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough jross20 is a jewel in the rough
Quote:
Originally Posted by repo View Post
Try loosening and re-torqing all the rear arm bushings and the panhard bushings at ride height. And the rear becomes skippy without adjusting the panhard bar to pull it back in line. Also try test driving it with the rear sway bar removed and see if it feels different. Do you have sway/link poly bushings? They really push the wheels down hard in my experience from stiffening the twist rate like a sports car. And the end link length affects the leverage on it too.
I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.
Say what? I've got 890s
jross20 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 08:16 AM #27
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.



Say what? I've got 890s
The bushing can bind up, like when you do front shocks and have to fight the UCA bushing with a bottle jack or whatever. I loosen them and the retorque when back on the ground, then you dont have to fight it and the bushing preload is at the new height. If the rears are over torqued or bushing were replaced and it got torqued at a different ride height it might bind them up a bit. Its just a quick easy thing to try before trying different shocks.

I suppose another quick thing to try is greasing the prop shaft and make sure the slip joint isn't locked up or something. You know basically check everything in the rear is moving freely as it should before spending more on the shocks.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 08:22 AM #28
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.
I thought 890s are taller and softer than 906. It's 891 that are taller and stiffer. I seem to remember some confusion with them changing the numbers around a few years ago though. 890s have been a staple of 3" lifts for ages. 906 is 2" lift. 891 is for constant load like swingout bumper.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 08:32 AM #29
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
repo repo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,252
repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light repo is a glorious beacon of light
E-rated tires are brutal at low speed if not aired down. At 40psi it feels like no suspension at all unless driving at speed on the road. 20-30 feels totally different but you cant drive on the road like that. Even 32psi is on the edge of where you start overheating E tires on the road.
__________________
99 SR5 v6 4WD
11 SR5 v6 4WD
repo is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 09-27-2021, 09:26 AM #30
Romeo1's Avatar
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Romeo1 Romeo1 is offline
Member
Romeo1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice Romeo1 is just really nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.



Say what? I've got 890s

That’s what wheelers told me. We ran through all 3 spring combinations. The guy I spoke to, Steve if I remember right, seemed super knowledgeable. And he strongly advise anything against their lowest entry which was the 2906. He said that unless you had a lot of weight like steel bumpers extra gear tents expedition time stuff he said that he could not recommend those springs because they would just be uncomfortable to live without a daily basis. I told him I didn’t care how it daily that I was looking for pure off-road performance, and he still felt that the entry level spring was the correct one.

I
__________________
99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
Romeo1 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
890s , bump , cheap , explode , shocks

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OME 890s vs ToyTec 3" rear coils thezentree 3rd gen T4Rs 16 08-01-2020 01:47 AM
WTT: Ome 890s for 2" springs PCF4runner For Sale: Suspension/Wheels/Tires 1 01-31-2017 02:45 PM
Any good "Snake Oil" remedy for a tiny rear main leak? dgoll75 3rd gen T4Rs 7 02-01-2015 04:09 PM
FS: 3rd gen 890s, stock struts with 2" spacers - PA $150 bfett22 For Sale: Suspension/Wheels/Tires 7 08-06-2014 06:34 AM
Zero point didnt work how to turn off "VSC TRAC" & "VSC OFF" & "ABS" lights sciff5 4th Gen T4Rs 6 09-27-2010 12:10 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:39 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020