09-10-2021, 06:48 PM
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#1
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Best "good-enough" shocks for 890s?
I need something decent, but cheap, to swap with my kings so I can send them off for a re-valve. I was thinking about 1995 LC shocks as they are CHEAP AS HELL, but I wanted to see what you guys might suggest. I'm running 890 coils, so I don't want to get anything too short that would explode over a bump.
I'm also curious to see how the LC's shocks ride...but I also don't know about the larger shaft diameter and all that jazz. Plus I've heard that 890s might drop out with them? $45 a shock is tempting though...
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09-11-2021, 04:40 PM
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#2
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Hey! Been a while
To keep the answer short I'll say it like this. They are stiff but it's not bad IMO. As long as you keep your swaybars on your 890s will NOT fall out. Not even close. You will run into the driveshaft/gas tank skid hitting but a quick cut will solve that.
No mods needed to run them. They bolt right up. You can enlarge the hole on the frame but it's not required.
I'm running this current setup and love it. Flex is like 4 inches more than stock. I am using 1995 bravada bumpstops though and 95 4runner swaybar links. Both bolt on, no mods
Hope this helps
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09-12-2021, 09:03 AM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_welfare_wagon
Hey! Been a while
To keep the answer short I'll say it like this. They are stiff but it's not bad IMO. As long as you keep your swaybars on your 890s will NOT fall out. Not even close. You will run into the driveshaft/gas tank skid hitting but a quick cut will solve that.
No mods needed to run them. They bolt right up. You can enlarge the hole on the frame but it's not required.
I'm running this current setup and love it. Flex is like 4 inches more than stock. I am using 1995 bravada bumpstops though and 95 4runner swaybar links. Both bolt on, no mods
Hope this helps
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Hey welfare! How has it been?
Okay well I think I can handle what you described, I was just worried about the potential of losing a spring if just for any reason throughout the day maybe I'm like large bump or something things got flexed out. I figured that really shouldn't be able to happen throughout the day, but I didn't want to just assume and then have a bad day... Haha...
I'm assuming they are not as stiff as the kings that I have on now, those kings in the rear are ridiculously stiff even on the softest setting... That is why I'm sending them in for a rebound although I guess we'll see how the LC's feel.
You mentioned that they won't fall out as long as the sway bar is on, does this matter if I'm extended the sway bar links?
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09-12-2021, 10:51 AM
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#4
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As long as your daily driving and not offroading I'd say the swaybar links won't matter too much. If you do go offroad and get flexy with the LC shocks you will probably snap the stock links.
Since these shocks are meant for a almost 3 ton vehicle they do smooth out with weight in the back but 99% of the time I have none in the back.
Also if your not gonna offroad with them I wouldn't do the gas tank skid cut either as it only hits under full flex.
Below is a photo of full flex/lifting a wheel with the LC shocks in.
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09-12-2021, 05:32 PM
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#5
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Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.
I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length
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09-12-2021, 11:41 PM
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#6
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Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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09-13-2021, 09:04 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_welfare_wagon
As long as your daily driving and not offroading I'd say the swaybar links won't matter too much. If you do go offroad and get flexy with the LC shocks you will probably snap the stock links.
Since these shocks are meant for a almost 3 ton vehicle they do smooth out with weight in the back but 99% of the time I have none in the back.
Also if your not gonna offroad with them I wouldn't do the gas tank skid cut either as it only hits under full flex.
Below is a photo of full flex/lifting a wheel with the LC shocks in.
That looks pretty good, have you measured your flex and compression to see how much travel you're getting? Like wheel travel.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_welfare_wagon
Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.
I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length
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Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1
Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.
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Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.
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09-13-2021, 10:49 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_welfare_wagon
Sorry, I just realized I forgot to answer the swaybar question.
I'm running 1995 4runner links which are ~2 inches longer than stock and the 890s are firmly in place. I grabbed onto the 890s at full flex and could literally shake the whole truck back and forth when yanking on them. Solidly in place. I do have the top cone bumpstops in there though. I'm sure this adds another inch or so to their length
Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
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Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.
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09-13-2021, 10:55 AM
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#9
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I'm pretty sure 4th gen 5160s will work but haven't seen it talked about much. I think SS was using them in one of their kits a while ago. They mount upside down though and you'll definitely need extended bumpstops. I plan on trying those when my 5100 tundras (with replaced lower bushing to fit) give out. I have 890s + 10mm spacers.
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09-13-2021, 03:23 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.
Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.
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I mean you dropped the coin for Kings….. I’d say a set of billies shouldn’t blow your budget.
I get your situation, but there’s a real possibility you’re going to have these kings removed in the future for servicing. Ya just as well have a good set of back ups. Heck, he may even find you like the backups better than the kings.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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09-13-2021, 04:29 PM
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#11
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I've had my LC Tokicos on for about a half year now, I have no complaints and I think they'd work great for your needs. Like some folks said above, they can be a bit stiff with no added weight, but nothing unbearable. The price point is truly unbeatable, I say go for it!
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09-13-2021, 07:09 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo
Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.
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Im using 95 rear links on my rear swaybar. The fronts are still the stock ones
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09-15-2021, 02:46 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Okay yeah it sounds like we have the same setup, the second gen links and the little bumper things at the top. Okay that's good, while I still haven't officially gone on the trails yet because it's not finished, I do occasionally do some practice on some family property just for fun so I'll just tone it down a bit...haha.
Well I thought about this but the main thing is that I want to spend as little as possible... I'm already annoyed that the Kings didn't ride as expected and that I have to get them revalved... Honey maybe my expectations of $1,000 pair of shocks were not where they should be, or maybe the pair I have has a defect... I'm not sure.. anyway, I just need something cheap and basic to use while they're being revalved.
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Also I thought I mentioned it but I guess not. You will need to extend your bumpstops fpr the LC shocks. Im using ones from a 95 oldsmobile bravada. I wouldn't waste money with the durobumps even though they are a popular option. I got em new from GM(Junkyards have em too) for 80 bucks shipped as opposed to 165 for durobumps. These also bolt right up and use the stock bolt to go back on. They are double the stock length and work amazing
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09-16-2021, 01:20 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1
Why not just get a set of 5100s and be done with it? Then you’ll have a good backup set once/when the kings come back.
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This. I'm very satisfied with the performance of my bilstein shocks. They are firm but not extremely harsh.
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09-16-2021, 10:28 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo
Do you remember if they are 2nd gen rear or front links in the rear? And what links do you use in the front? I think I have 3rd gen front on the rear and 2nd gen rears on the front or something like that but I need to look it up in my log. The fronts keep snapping off the driver side top, I think it's the poly bushings putting too much stress on them and the sway bar itself is bent maybe, it tends to bind up.
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Don’t fight it. Just go with the overland custom design links. I’ve beaten the crap out of mine and they just keep doing what they’re supposed to do which is borrow rate and not break.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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