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Old 10-12-2021, 06:59 PM #16
Pears4R Pears4R is offline
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So you need to take the MAF out of the air intake pipe clean it with a brush and the right sensor cleaner look up Timmy the tool man on u tube
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:48 AM #17
Bad Luck Bad Luck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pears4R View Post
So you need to take the MAF out of the air intake pipe clean it with a brush and the right sensor cleaner look up Timmy the tool man on u tube
DO NOT CLEAN THE MAF WITH A BRUSH Do not clean sensitive electronics with any sort of brush/cloth/etc. Use MAF cleaner spray and follow the directions on the can.
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:23 AM #18
AntleredRuin AntleredRuin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tacorunner View Post
So when I start it when it’s cold it’s starts up perfectly but it runs for a while and I could actually drive it for a while but random if I’m driving it when I gas it it won’t accelerate it’s seem like it’s not getting enough fuel and it starts to backfire when I press the gas. Then it will eventually just die and then when I try starting it up again sometimes it’ll start but just die right away then sometimes it wont start at all but it will crank. Which leads me to thinking it might be fuel. Do 3rd gen 4Runners have any fuel relays? Because I had this problem on a Toyota pickup and it was a fuel relay.
This sounds like the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) issue that I had when I first bought my truck. I completely forgot about it, or I would have mentioned it in my earlier post above.

Does your truck have an aftermarket air intake system, or have you done the ISR mod? If not, then you have an easy way to test if your FPR is failing. The FPR maintains its pressure from the air intake, and when the check valve in it fails, it will begin to dump fuel INTO the air intake through its attached vacuum line. If you have the stock airbox, this fuel will wind up pooling in the airbox, and will be very noticeable if you remove and shake it around. Makes for an easy diagnosis.

Unfortunately, the FPR is a real SOB to get to, as it's at the rear driver's side of the fuel rail underneath the air plenum. It's also held on with those crappy brass Toyota screws so they will strip out easily unless you can apply good pressure to them, which is near impossible without removing the entire fuel rail and clamping it in a vice to hold it down. If I had to do it again, I'd think hard about getting a Milwaukee M12 Right-Angle Impact driver to see if it would fit back there. If it would, it would be well worth the price of admission.

I opted against using a new OEM or aftermarket, and went with a used one from eBay with (supposedly) only 60k miles on it, as this is a relatively rare piece to break and they often go 300k plus. I've put a good 110k miles on it and it's still working fine. It only cost $30 (not including the injector I broke when removing the fuel rail).
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Old 10-20-2021, 04:37 AM #19
96tacorunner 96tacorunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntleredRuin View Post
This sounds like the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) issue that I had when I first bought my truck. I completely forgot about it, or I would have mentioned it in my earlier post above.

Does your truck have an aftermarket air intake system, or have you done the ISR mod? If not, then you have an easy way to test if your FPR is failing. The FPR maintains its pressure from the air intake, and when the check valve in it fails, it will begin to dump fuel INTO the air intake through its attached vacuum line. If you have the stock airbox, this fuel will wind up pooling in the airbox, and will be very noticeable if you remove and shake it around. Makes for an easy diagnosis.

Unfortunately, the FPR is a real SOB to get to, as it's at the rear driver's side of the fuel rail underneath the air plenum. It's also held on with those crappy brass Toyota screws so they will strip out easily unless you can apply good pressure to them, which is near impossible without removing the entire fuel rail and clamping it in a vice to hold it down. If I had to do it again, I'd think hard about getting a Milwaukee M12 Right-Angle Impact driver to see if it would fit back there. If it would, it would be well worth the price of admission.

I opted against using a new OEM or aftermarket, and went with a used one from eBay with (supposedly) only 60k miles on it, as this is a relatively rare piece to break and they often go 300k plus. I've put a good 110k miles on it and it's still working fine. It only cost $30 (not including the injector I broke when removing the fuel rail).
I have stock air intake and I don’t think I did ISR MOD I don’t even know what that is tbh haha but what do you mean I would see fuel? Like I there would be fuel on my intake?
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