New owner here, I LOVE it but have a few questions to make it the best it can be. Answer any you can!

1) A little surface rust underneath, what is a easy/best under coat option? I’ll try to add a photo

2) Are there any noise dampening options that don’t involve opening everything up? If yes, what? If no, are there areas to start with you recommend?

3) Suggestions on stripping tint from the front windows, it’s illegal where I’m from and I don’t like breaking the rules. What’s the best way?

4) Any ideas for a step driver and passenger side, mainly because I’m short and this is my winter driver. I’ll try to link a photo of what I’m starting with.

5) what other things should be on my radar for improvements or to do items?

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There’s tons of undercoating stuff out there. Literally tons. I myself have not done any of that so I can’t give you any advice:

As far as noise dampening, the undercoat can help with that. You can also get a thicker carpet or line under your carpet with that special tape that use doing audio work. Or turn your music up louder.

I have a set of step rails that came off my 1997 limited. If your close I’ll let them go. If not there’s also many different styles out there.

I would start with making sure the maintenance is caught up. When’s the last timing belt change?


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Stripping a tint, you'll need either a steamer or a hair dryer then spray it with soapy water where it starts stripping and start pulling. Then clean the rest with window cleaner and razor blade.

Your pictures didn't post, FYI. Posting images here is a bit tricky cause the site's heavily archaic
If you don't have any severe rust I would take a wire wheel+brush to it, maybe sand it if needed and paint it again, and be sure to use a rust converting/reforming primer. Best to nip it in the bud outright. If you're lazy you could look into stuff like POR15 (literally stands for paint over rust) but I've never used it personally. If you guys use salt like most out that direction I've seen great things about Surface Shield from Blaster
Noise reduction, not really any other option as that's the main source of it - the outright lack of sound deadening material
In regards to window tint I'm almost positive factory tint is totally legal, as the complications come from aftermarket tints being a film that can impede shattering windows in an emergency. If it IS aftermarket then like stated above, a heat gun or the like will be needed - lot's of youtube videos on how to do it, cause lots of people mess it up when applying it
Some 4runners (Sports and Limited models) came with running boards from the factory and don't look half bad. Many get rid of them because they take up ground clearance when off-roading so if you're lucky you might be able to find some nearby for sale. I wouldn't have hope for someone selling them online though, since they're so large everyone charges out the ass for shipping. I'm talking like $200 if I remember right. You could look into getting some sliders too

They don't call rust "cancer" for no reason.... if you don't actually Address the rust, as in either convert it with a chemical or remove it with physical means (sanding, wire wheel, blasting) ~ it was simply grow. Whatever you do, avoid the heavy rubber undercoatings as they only serve to seal the rust in place and give it a nice protected environment in which to continue eating away the frame (body panels, etc...) Plus it makes it Really annoying/hard to work on your vehicle later if you coat fasteners.

I like to use a rust converter, this is my personal weapon of choice: Amazon.com: Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Gal,82331 : Automotive

And then hose everything down with a more liquid based undercoat such as Fluid Film (though PB Blaster brand has something new that looks to be an evolution in a rather static market, called Surface Shield).



Noise damping is 100% going to need trim removal. 2 kinds of damping, those that transmit through the structure and those that are airborne. Structure can be handled by adding mass (Dynamat type products), air born needs something different though, that's more the lightweight fiber type stuff (I used 3m Thinsulate in my cargo van, mostly for temp regulation but made a HUGE difference in sound deadening too). No matter how you cut it, this is something that costs a good bit of money and takes a fair bit of time.

Running boards came stock on all 4runners (step to get in and out). Lots of people remove them for looks, and a few remove them for function... chances are good you can find a set for cheap/free near you.

As for the rest? Maintenance. #1, replace the lower ball joints. They have a fairly high failure rate (bad design). and when they fail the wheel falls off. Buy nothing but OEM here, both the balljoint AND the fasteners. #2 is the radiator. It handles both engine and transmission cooling and the separation between the 2 passages tends to fail unless the coolant is flushed regularly and replaced with only the proper coolant, when that does happen the 2 fluids mix and the transmission fails. These are the top 2 killers that can be prevented for very little money and time.

Beyond that, you'll want to flush all fluids, grease all points, change out anything rubber (start with the important things, like brake lines, then move on to the quality of life things like bushings), take care of the water pump, timing belt with all associated replacement parts, valve cover gaskets if they're like Every other 3.4l 5vzfe Toyota and leak oil, vacuum lines, clean the throttle body, IAC, MAF, replace the air filter, etc... Basically, do ALL of the maintenance that has been differed and ignored over the past 20 years and you'll be set to go another 20 years with minimal need to do much wrenching.

Excellent advise on the timing belt. The mechanics I talk to, and trust, tell me this is one maintenance item that, if replaced between 80,000 and 100,000 miles, will keep the lifeblood in your T4R flowing for many years to come.

[QUOTE=Brian.;3680558]
I like to use a rust converter, this is my personal weapon of choice: Amazon.com: Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Gal,82331 : Automotive

That’s awesome! So you’d do both the corroseal and then a fluid film or similar?
When I read on the corroseal it sounded like it needed to be painted after. But you’d do a film coat instead form the sounds of things— no paint.

[QUOTE=Devbot;3680525]Your pictures didn't post, FYI. Posting images here is a bit tricky cause the site's heavily archaic
If you don't have any severe rust I would take a wire wheel+brush to it, maybe sand it if needed and paint it again, and be sure to use a rust converting/reforming primer. Best to nip it in the bud outright. “

Thanks! I’ll try again.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...1&d=1634165415

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Great info here, print out Brian's post and run it like a check list. I'm going to underscore his points about Lower Ball Joints and the radiator. Failure on either can be downright catastrophic to 3rd Gens.

The LBJ design was poor, and with enough wear the joint will actually separate and possibly pop out of socket and fold your wheel up into the wheel well. Just google "3rd gen 4runner lower ball joint." You'll see the part in question and some nifty results of failure. Replace with OEM only, no Moog or Rock Auto substitutes.

If the radiator looks to be OEM original issue, highly consider replacing it. As mentioned, there is the potential when the core corrodes and fails, coolant can mix with transmission fluid and kill the trans.

If you have a sunroof, check to see the drains are working. Last, take a look at your front CV boots for splitting. They will give way, shoot out all the grease and within a short time grind your high quality OEM parts to bits.

Make sure you look up Timmy The Toolman on YouTube and subscribe. That guy is an incredible wealth of how-to on the 3rd gens and is a member here. Welcome to the 4runner community!

[Shot of a LBJ fail and one of me and my wife playing in the snow. I'm one of the few who prefers the OEM look with running boards, etc.]

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It's not your fault on the images, something is down.

I do the exact same thing except I spray all the bolts and harder to reach spots with wd-40. After spending who knows how many hours under this 20+ year old truck I never want to deal with rusted bolts again. It will save you hours of time and quarts of blood in future repairs lol.

Welcome!

1. Undercoating: I'm about to do the same as I'm going to be driving quite a bit this winter, including on salt heavy roads. From my research (and limited experience -- I've been out of the rust belt for a a few years now now) lanolin is the way to go. I'm personally going to use Wool Wax this time but I've used Fluid Film and it's great. My frame doesn't have any rust on it at the moment so I don't need to treat it beforehand but you'll want to properly treat the rust first. Would highly suggest avoiding a rubberized solution if you're going to be facing winter roads consistently.

2. Road noise: Like mentioned above, undercoating will have some acoustic properties. You'll get a lot of bullshit about how to eliminate road noise in vehicles on forums like this, but I actually was raised by an engineer for Ford who specifically worked in acoustics. I'm going to make a thread about this some day...but the biggest thing you need to realize is that low pitch sounds are nearly impossible to stop. This includes the lower pitches of drone from exhaust. But, the high pitch road sounds can be controlled and here's what you can do:

- Make sure the doors and windows are properly sealed. Any breaks in the seals are huge to letting in road noise.
- Fill the vehicle with acoustical material. It doesn't have to be in any special place between you and the road necessarily, it just has to be in the vehicle somewhere. Under the carpet, above the headliner, and in the doors are obviously the easiest places to put acoustical material.
- In terms of what materials to use - I'd suggest using material that is thick and cheap. You'll see people spending obscene amounts of money on thin aluminum coated material that in all reality probably has a lower acoustical rating than some cheap thick rubber stuff you can buy for a tenth of the price on Amazon. Obviously thicker material becomes more difficult to fit so be mindful of that.
- Replace the carpet, look into carpeting that has a thick layer of material acoustic already built into it, I've seen this called "mass backing"


For pics in the future I'd suggest using Imgur to upload, works a lot better than the site's tool.

In terms of what to work on next, I'd just search the forum for "Favorite mods" or "Best mods" and see what people suggest.

3rd Gen Master Link List
Here's the first link I saved from someone passed to me on this forum that I still constantly reference for all questions about the 3rd gen and is a great place to start.

Thank you!!! Love the added info on sound proofing, would certainly read a thread if you made it! That master list is a gold mine. I saw they have a great beginning guide for new owners/prospective buyers! Awesome!