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Old 10-15-2021, 09:38 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkinsadam1 View Post
All these fluids... $150 each? Is that normal? Or $350 for an alignment?
I just saw a billboard yesterday for a local Toyota dealership: "4 wheel alignment, $49."
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Old 10-15-2021, 09:58 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyBobandy View Post
The lower ball joints are a higher priority than anything on that list, and I certainly wouldn’t have the yokel mechanic who gave you that estimate do it, the ball joints need to be oem with new bolts.
Really, you don't think a mechanic should do the ball joints? Also, is there a way for me to visually evaluate whether or not they need to be done? Any warning signs?
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Old 10-15-2021, 10:00 AM #33
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Originally Posted by Endlessblockades View Post
Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty - we all start somewhere. The important thing is to start.......
LOL That's all I know! I say it every time I screw or unscrew something to remember ha
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Old 10-15-2021, 10:03 AM #34
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Exclamation

PHOTOS!!!!!! Hey all, check this out!!! PHOTOS PHOTOS photos photos


Inspection results


This has PHOTOS from the shop of the stuff in question. Perhaps this can also give more seasoned guys on here a better idea of the reality/seriousness of these issues??
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Last edited by adkinsadam1; 10-15-2021 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 10-15-2021, 10:06 AM #35
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Originally Posted by SurferUK View Post
What on earth is a fuel injector 'service' (As opposed to full on refurbishment)? I have never heard of such a thing even on diesels.
We sell a "fuel system service" at my dealership. It consists of cleaning the throttle body, adding a fuel injector cleaner to the fuel tank, and running a fuel injector cleaner concentrate through the fuel rail with the engine running.
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Old 10-15-2021, 10:30 AM #36
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
We sell a "fuel system service" at my dealership. It consists of cleaning the throttle body, adding a fuel injector cleaner to the fuel tank, and running a fuel injector cleaner concentrate through the fuel rail with the engine running.
Interesting, thanks. That's not something I have ever seen here. Nothing except the fuel filter gets touched as part of a service (And not even that sometimes!)

On a diesel with EGR I can see the benefits I suppose. A petrol engine...I suppose I might do it once every 150,000 miles if I was feeling kind that day
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Old 10-15-2021, 12:35 PM #37
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Originally Posted by SurferUK View Post
Interesting, thanks. That's not something I have ever seen here. Nothing except the fuel filter gets touched as part of a service (And not even that sometimes!)

On a diesel with EGR I can see the benefits I suppose. A petrol engine...I suppose I might do it once every 150,000 miles if I was feeling kind that day
In my personal vehicles I only clean the throttle body. If you read the fuel service bottles it says it only covers the cost of the product (fuel system cleaner) if there is a fuel system component failure.
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Old 10-15-2021, 12:44 PM #38
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
In my personal vehicles I only clean the throttle body. If you read the fuel service bottles it says it only covers the cost of the product (fuel system cleaner) if there is a fuel system component failure.
That's very generous of them!
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Old 10-15-2021, 02:24 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkinsadam1 View Post
For those of you who saw my post on here about two weeks ago asking about the CV joints.... I finally got a list of things that must be handled from the car shop which inspected my car. My car has 250k miles on it. I can't afford this.

What should I do? What would you do? I really appreciate it. I have to let them know what I want today.

HERE (1999 4runner Squeak Sound, CV Boot Stuff - YouTube) is a link to the video I uploaded with my last post, a week prior to me dropping my car off at the shop. I included extensive footage of the undercarriage in the second half of the video. Perhaps this may be useful.


Thank you SO MUCH. I really appreciate the input here.

PS- I'm also a bit shocked because this place did a fuel injection service for me in July, and they're saying I need one again. Also, ALL of this stuff was not an issue in July. That is $8000 of new stuff in just a few months. I explained to the technician I spoke with that I felt it was strange and he says he's been a technician for 30 years and you can never predict when things break. They just do. What would you guys do if this were your rig? It's driving fine. Great even. There is some fluid leaking under the car though on the garage floor. ALSO, last time, they said I had an oil leak from the oil pan gasket (I think that's what it is), and they replaced that, and at that time there was no other leaking stuff. It's only been 3 months! I haven't driven the truck an abnormal amount or anything.
Hey man head up to Denver and see Phil at Smooth Ride in Northglenn. Best Toyota mechanic in town if you're going to pay someone to do the work. Sounds like you don't wrench yourself which you should but he'll hook you up.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:01 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkinsadam1 View Post
Really, you don't think a mechanic should do the ball joints?
I needed my timing belt done in April of 2021. Dealership wanted $1300. I had the bright idea to hire a mechanic that someone recommended to me since I didn't have the tools or skills. Figured I'd pay attention and learn something, especially since he was doing it in my driveway. I'd offered to supply parts from aircabinman on Ebay but he said he'd only warranty the work if he used OEM parts from his own supplier. I ended up busy with clients throughout the afternoon and was only able to get out and take some occasional pictures of work-in-progress.

A couple weeks later, after reading this forum day in and day out, I went back and looked at the pictures. The first thing I noticed was a red & blue box labelled Duralast Timing Kit.



I decided then and there to become the best shade tree mechanic on my street. The first job I tackled on my own was replacing my LBJs. With the help of Timmy's videos and the right tools I was able to get the job done and it turned out no more difficult than changing spark plugs. Since then I've done rear shocks & coils, TBU, radiator, OTREs, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings and more. I also did the front shocks & coils with some generous help from @gamefreakgc .

And I was a Web Developer. Now I'm a Web Developer with tools. And it all started here, in this forum.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:08 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkinsadam1 View Post
Really, you don't think a mechanic should do the ball joints? Also, is there a way for me to visually evaluate whether or not they need to be done? Any warning signs?
Take the castle nut off. Remove the two bolts from the part the ball joint is secured by. This is one design that Toyota got right. It's super easy. Grab the stem of the ball joint and move it around it shouldn't move easily. Their should be resistance but movable by hand. I'm sure it's the tie rod end links though due to the tire wearing in that particular way,. Your shakes when braking are another symptom the links. Refer to my previous post.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:20 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
We sell a "fuel system service" at my dealership. It consists of cleaning the throttle body, adding a fuel injector cleaner to the fuel tank, and running a fuel injector cleaner concentrate through the fuel rail with the engine running.
Seriously! I bought a non dismantle fuel injector cleaner for 100 dollars. It's a canister with pressure regulator you fill with special injector cleaner hooked to an air compressor. Hooks directly into fuel rail. But I'll shut up now because if people knew this stuff y'all at the dealership can't screw people as hard. Especially when the symptoms of dirty injectors could be blamed on numerous different causes 😙
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:25 PM #43
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Originally Posted by Jakeepoo3 View Post
Take the castle nut off. Remove the two bolts from the part the ball joint is secured by. This is one design that Toyota got right. It's super easy. Grab the stem of the ball joint and move it around it shouldn't move easily. Their should be resistance but movable by hand. I'm sure it's the tie rod end links though due to the tire wearing in that particular way,. Your shakes when braking are another symptom the links. Refer to my previous post.
I don't know why you keep posting 5th gen specific repairs and procedures here in the 3rd gen section. It isn't the same. It's barely an apples and oranges argument. 3rd Gen lower ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle with 4 bolts (there's 2 different lower ball joint bolts and torque values depending on what bolt it is), there is a castle nut and pin where it attaches to the lower control arm, and another castle nut and pin where the outer tie rod end attaches. Please refrain from posting repair procedures that do not apply directly to 3rd gen 4Runners since this is the 3rd Gen 4Runner section.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:27 PM #44
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Originally Posted by Jakeepoo3 View Post
Seriously! I bought a non dismantle fuel injector cleaner for 100 dollars. It's a canister with pressure regulator you fill with special injector cleaner hooked to an air compressor. Hooks directly into fuel rail. But I'll shut up now because if people knew this stuff y'all at the dealership can't screw people as hard. Especially when the symptoms of dirty injectors could be blamed on numerous different causes 😙
To imply that I screw over anyone and have questionable professional integrity really pisses me off. You don't know me so keep my name out of your ****ing mouth. Thanks for coming to my TED talk.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:47 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
I don't know why you keep posting 5th gen specific repairs and procedures here in the 3rd gen section. It isn't the same. It's barely an apples and oranges argument. 3rd Gen lower ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle with 4 bolts (there's 2 different lower ball joint bolts and torque values depending on what bolt it is), there is a castle nut and pin where it attaches to the lower control arm, and another castle nut and pin where the outer tie rod end attaches. Please refrain from posting repair procedures that do not apply directly to 3rd gen 4Runners since this is the 3rd Gen 4Runner section.
I forget there are different sections my bad. I know the previous design which why i said they got it right. Anyways everything else I said applies. Try not to be an ******* to someone with valuable information and just helping.
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