I plan on putting in a straight pipe through. that cat is only impeding airflow at this point

It was dark and raining at the time. + by the time we stopped there was coolant everywhere since it had boiled/popped out the coolant capture reservoir thing so hard to say.

but my heat does not work... I dont know how long its not been working.

When ones heater stops blowing hot air, that is a great indicator you’re low on coolant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coolant has been topped and no signs of leak since the incident.
Heater has never worked since I bought it 3k miles ago.

Have you checked your cooling fan?

radiator fan sucking in air real good.

Right. How's the clutch? Do you know how to check that?

Heater never worked? So there's coolant passage issues pre-dating you ever owning it. All the heater system is comprised of is a valve, some tubing and a radiator with a fan behind it. Sounds like your cooling system is in dire need of help from top to bottom.

Negative, but google search says give it a spin and there should be some resistance ?

So youre saying my heater issue could be linked ?
Should I start with replacing the valve ?

making a big ol RockAuto shopping cart right now..
Cooling System : Radiator Hose
Cooling System : Radiator Cap
Cooling System : Thermostat
Cooling System : Thermostat / Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet Seal
Cooling System : Radiator
Heat & Air Conditioning : Heater Valve

It could all very much be linked. Any coolant leak, even if not from the engine, will affect coolant fluid pressure and circulation and have a negative affect on cooling ability. It's hard to diagnose something over the internet without seeing your vehicle so I cannot say with any certainty. You did the HG test which came out good so that's a positive, that's the hardest job to do. You can now narrow it down to either a faulty hose, water pump, or heater core as the mystery leak.

Some auto parts stores will let you rent tools, including a coolant system pressure kit. It comprises of a universal fit radiator cap and a hand pump with a pressure gauge. You pump in some air to a set PSI and watch and listen for any leaks. It's not a definitive test as it can still leak when the engine is really hot but not cold when you do the test but it can help and is free.



This is the one I own: Radiator Pressure Tester Kit

I'd highly suggest an OEM thermostat and OEM radiator cap. And make sure the radiator is a quality one.

-Charlie

You need to narrow down the problem before you go buying a bunch of parts. Pressure test the coolant system and check the fan clutch first. The heater issue could be completely unrelated, like a clogged core or a stick blend door even.

I agree...that said, depending on how many miles are on the parts, there's nothing wrong with being proactive and replacing the radiator / cap / hoses / flush coolant / heater control valve. May not fix the problem but wouldn't be the worst things to replace.

In terms of the truck's heater not working -- flushing the heater core isn't a bad idea either and is easy enough with a garden hose.

I noticed later on that there was a post yesterday after you posted this about heater control valves actually. Here's a good video on the topic:
How To Replace A Heater Control Valve On A Toyota - YouTube

Compression test results:

1: 199
2: 116
3: 179
4: 189
5: 199
6: 186

And pic of Cyl 2 spark plug

Now how do i know if i need to replace heads or just the gaskets ?

Attached Images

 

116 is no good. I'm not sure a head gasket or head would cause 1 cylinder to be so low compared to the others, could be rings. Let see what others think.