11-22-2021, 01:47 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
With 880 not being side specific, how much of a ride height difference do you have in your front driver & front passenger sides?
What are your center hub to fender measurements front & rear?
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I’ll be able to get those measurements and post them this weekend.
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11-22-2021, 07:42 PM
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#17
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You could definitely snag some 5th gen springs for cheap, you can use both front and rear and 5100’s all around and it’s pretty decent. I don’t think you’ll be blown away but it’s a good budget option for sure and I’m currently running that as well.
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11-22-2021, 11:08 PM
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#18
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5th gen or FJ cruiser coils if you can find them. Then you can go 5100 or maybe some Tokicos. All 4 coils should be around 100 bucks or so.
If you go that route you can save alot of money, gain about 1.5" of lift, and maintain a factory feel.
Definitely budget for LBJ, CV boot repair, and check your end link bushings.
Just went through all of this last year.
The ride with the FJ coils was comfortable to me. Ultimately I replaced the rear coils with something else to better fit my needs, but I'm still running FJ coils in the front, on 5100s.
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2016 TE (WIFES)>Stock with KO2's, SW sliders
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11-23-2021, 02:34 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian.
External reservoirs (and larger shock bodies like the 6112) main benefits are more oil and/or oil cooling which directly impact how Long the shock can be pushed hard before it fades (from heat). Might also get a little longer usable lifespan, but I doubt it the more I think about it. Wheeling doesn't heat shocks, it's a slow and methodical thing (usually). Think more like extended washboard roads on the normal human side of things, and Baja style whoops on the superhuman side. I drive a fair bit of washboard, it was the main reason I opted for the 6112/5160 over the 5100's.
As for bushings, front and rear upper and lower control arms, swaybars/end links front and rear, steering rack, and panhard are, I think, the majority. Then there's the body bushings, which I haven't done yet but they're on the "want to get done" list.
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You rock, thank you. There's definitely a lot of washboard forest roads that I go on so I might consider external reservoirs.
Great list on the bushings, thank you. I will keep these notes!
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11-23-2021, 02:36 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1
If you don’t want it to be too tall, don’t lift it.
Sounds to me like your a candidate for new OEM 99 tall springs and some Bilstein 5100s all the way around if you have no plans to go larger than stock on tires.
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You might be right. I really don't want it taller but I did scrape a tiny bit (unavoidably) on a certain part of a road I travel often. An inch or so on suspension might be nice. Hadn't considered taller tires though that's also going to add a bit.
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11-23-2021, 03:08 PM
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#21
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If I get something like the Icon upper control arms which mentions something about a "delta joint" - does that replace the upper ball joint or is that separate?
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11-23-2021, 05:30 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmer
If I get something like the Icon upper control arms which mentions something about a "delta joint" - does that replace the upper ball joint or is that separate?
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You don't need new control arms unless you are lifting - and even then you really don't if it is a mild lift. New upper a-arms are for higher lifts (adjusted geometry), more droop travel and more tire clearance. For safety-sake, only the lower ball joints are needed (OEM only). Other parts are gravy.
If you want stock-like ride, get new stock components. They will be for sure the most comfortable. OEM rubber bushings, OEM shocks, etc.
Poly bushings will tighten up the ride - whether that is more comfortable is subjective. (I personally like it, but I drive around in cars with coilovers all the time...)
Another thing for comfort offroad - tire pressure! Of course, that assume you have the time to air down and back up...
-Charlie
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11-23-2021, 05:42 PM
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#23
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Plenty of talking about the Bilstein 5100s and OME 880/906 combo here already, I'll just add in another vote for this setup. I had it on my old 01 and loved the ride and look with 265/75/16 tires. All I wanted to do was replace sagging rear springs and freshen up the suspension, but the mild lift was a bonus. No funny business needed either with control arm upgrades, diff drops, etc. Got the fronts pre-assembled from Wheeler's Offroad so no need to stare death in the eyes with spring compressors.
My 2000 currently has factory front springs and Moog rear springs with Bilstein 4600s all the way around and air bags (from PO) in the rear, set to 5 psi. I think my 01 rode better with the 5100s and OME coils. I'll duplicate that setup when time and funds allow.
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- James
Current: 2022 4Runner TRD ORP (first new truck!) | 2003 Miata Shinsen 5 speed
Past: 2001 4Runner SR5 4WD, 3.4L 5VZFE, Auto (sold with 310k and still going!) | 2000 4Runner SR5 4WD, 3.4 5VZFE, 5 speed manual (bought and sold for too much money!) | Many, many more cars...
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11-28-2021, 04:33 AM
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#24
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So what about the lower control arm? Is the lower ball joint separate from the lower control arm? Should they both be replaced oem?
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11-28-2021, 09:39 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmer
So what about the lower control arm? Is the lower ball joint separate from the lower control arm? Should they both be replaced oem?
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Ball joint is separate and the only thing that needs to be replaced (Yes OEM, the 4 mounting bolts too and there are 2 different sets for different years... there's also a "kit" with both L and R which can be a little cheaper ~ all of this is covered in great detail elsewhere). Control arm only needs bushings unless it's damaged or you're modified way past stock... if you can't or won't do the bushings yourself, it might be cheaper to buy a whole new one.
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12-01-2021, 05:00 PM
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#26
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Thank you guys very much this was all super helpful. I decided to go kinda all out and got a set of King shocks, Icon upper control arms, upper/lower ball joints, and all the bushings as well. Can't wait to feel the new ride! I'm going with a very mild 1" lift on the back (icon springs) and will do slightly below level up front for cargo/towing purposes.
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12-02-2021, 11:11 AM
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#27
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springs/shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
With 880 not being side specific, how much of a ride height difference do you have in your front driver & front passenger sides?
What are your center hub to fender measurements front & rear?
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Ok took some measurements.
This was with a half tank of gas, full size spare in stock location, and about 30-50 pounds of tools in the back, roughly evenly distributed. New poly body mount bushings (no body lift).
The ground looked pretty level, about as level as I could find. It was in a CVS parking lot on an extra level looking row of handicap spots.
The lift only has about 200 miles on it, so I’m sure things will continue to settle a little bit.
Measured from center hubs to the bottom edge of my oversized fender flares:
FRONT DRIVER: ~ 21 1/16”
FRONT PASSENGER: ~ 21 1/4”
REAR DRIVER: ~ 22 1/4”
REAR PASSENGER: ~ 22 1/4”
So, the front driver side lean is just a little less than a 1/4”.
Rear side to side is level.
Once everything is done settling, I might add a 5mm trim packer to the driver front. (I should have done the trim packer with the initial install. Oh well.)
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Last edited by cl4Rk; 12-02-2021 at 12:11 PM.
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12-02-2021, 02:56 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk
Once everything is done settling, I might add a 5mm trim packer to the driver front. (I should have done the trim packer with the initial install. Oh well.)
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The front suspension has about a 2:1 motion ratio. That 5mm spacer would add ~10mm of ride height, or ~0.4" Don't mess with success...
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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12-02-2021, 04:12 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
The front suspension has about a 2:1 motion ratio. That 5mm spacer would add ~10mm of ride height, or ~0.4" Don't mess with success...
-Charlie
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Ahh excellent I didn't think of that. I'll leave well enough alone. Thank you!!
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12-02-2021, 05:39 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TW44LR
You could definitely snag some 5th gen springs for cheap, you can use both front and rear and 5100’s all around and it’s pretty decent. I don’t think you’ll be blown away but it’s a good budget option for sure and I’m currently running that as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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How much lift did you get all around? I'm in the same boat as OP, I want to freshen up the springs and shocks just for the time being so I can figure out what's a better long term set up and what kind of trailing I want to get into.
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