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Old 11-27-2021, 09:29 PM #1
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Non-mast related power antenna issues

So my mast is broken, but I also think the motor isn't getting power either. Either the motor itself is broken or something that controls it is broken because I never hear it do anything when it should be active.

The dealership quoted $280 for a new motor, they also said I should check the power antenna relay (8591435010). The relay is even more expensive at $311. It goes without saying that I will get them at a pick and pull if its my issue.


Where is this relay located and how can I test if its bad?
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Old 11-28-2021, 12:22 AM #2
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I gave up on having a radio (with any range to speak of) after the physical connection between the mast and the motor failed and continued to grind noisily every time I turned the key. I live in a city and can get FM stations without an antenna so I unclipped the power to the motor. I'm no help - sorry. Good thing is there are a lot of experts on this subject here....I did learn that going after the motor by unbolting the quarter panel is helpful.
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Old 11-28-2021, 01:06 PM #3
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Its usually the teeth on the antenna mast not the motor or relay, pretty easy to change the mast, and you can access the motor from the inner fender guard if needed.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi.../ante/repl.pdf

motor & relay testing
http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi.../ante/insp.pdf
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Old 11-28-2021, 03:37 PM #4
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I see a lot of people replacing the mast, but I cant hear the motor at all, it doesn't seem to be doing anything.

Where is the relay located? I cant find anything about where its located.

I read that the antenna motor has a safety shutoff, anyone know more about this?
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Old 11-29-2021, 10:35 PM #5
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The power antenna relay is located under the stereo, plastic box #85914-35010, you should be able to trace the antenna wire from the stereo to it. Has your power antenna ever worked?, OEM stereo and wiring?, or aftermarket?, its an easy wire to skip if you're unfamiliar with power antennas and aftermarket stereo wiring.
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Old 11-29-2021, 11:20 PM #6
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Found what it was. The previous owner unplugged the antenna motor so it wouldn't retract. When I plugged it back in it went back down as it should, but the gears on the motor are stripped so it wont go back up. I tried a new oem mast, its definitely the motor teeth.

So I guess rather than fix the motor the last owner just unplugged it in the up position and left it like that.
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Old 11-30-2021, 06:57 AM #7
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Posted this before but I had to do both mast and motor on mine. Neither is difficult. About a year after the mast the motor went out. Grabbed one at pick/pull. One or two issues - the antenna cable is not plugged in the motor. it is integrated so you have to pull the wire all the way to the radio. In my case it was impossible to follow the original path since they put AC ducts in front of it. Just run it along the firewall. Don't cut the cable at the pick/pull thinking you can use your existing one. Took about an hour.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:12 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostrider View Post
Don't cut the cable at the pick/pull thinking you can use your existing one. Took about an hour.
Why cant I just solder the cables together?

To wire the new cable through means removing the glovebox, radio, and dash board. Seems like a giant pain in the ass.
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Old 11-30-2021, 01:28 PM #9
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Quote:
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Why cant I just solder the cables together?

To wire the new cable through means removing the glovebox, radio, and dash board. Seems like a giant pain in the ass.
You don't have to remove all that to replace the cable. Attach a string/small rope/wire to the antenna cable before you pull it out, then attach the new antenna cable to the string/rope/wire securely and pull it back through. It helps to have someone pull slowly from the inside while you guide/help the cable go back through.
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:09 PM #10
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Quote:
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Why cant I just solder the cables together?

To wire the new cable through means removing the glovebox, radio, and dash board. Seems like a giant pain in the ass.
No it doesn't. Maybe the radio just to plug in the cable. You can run the new cable along the firewall without removing anything. I have no idea if cut/solder works but doubt it for some reason. Like I said - took about an hour and part of that was deciding that following the original route would have required removing a lot of stuff - like the dash.
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Old 12-01-2021, 06:31 PM #11
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I was looking at this video. I want to follow the original cable route even if it is more difficult. I remove the center dash so often that I can do it within 5 minutes.

I've assumed that the internal gears in the motor are bad, but I haven't been able to take it apart. Should I try seeing if there is any gunk inside?

The antenna is connected in 2 ways, one is the chord that plugs into the back of the head unit, and the other connecter is in the wheel well. If I want to test that my used motor can raise and lower the mast, do I have to have both those connectors plugged in?
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Old 12-01-2021, 07:39 PM #12
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Yes, take it apart. There are probably bits of antennae mast stuck inside. Very easy job.
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Old 12-01-2021, 08:22 PM #13
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Quote:
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If I want to test that my used motor can raise and lower the mast, do I have to have both those connectors plugged in?
The long cable to the inside is the actual signal from the antenna. You will only need to plug in the "outside" plug to check motor operation.

My antenna got replaced many years ago (at the dealer, I think!), and they didn't run the cable correctly. It hangs down into the passenger footwell a bit. Whoops. Don't think I'll ever fix it though.

Oh, and its unlikely you can solder the antenna connection. It is a shielded coax cable.

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Old 12-02-2021, 04:17 AM #14
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Just making sure the motor part number is 86300-35111?

And all North American 3rd gen 4runners used the same motor?
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