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Old 12-10-2021, 02:50 PM #16
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Here is a crappy photo of the top view: (this is old now)


Last edited by jross20; 12-16-2021 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 12-10-2021, 11:08 PM #17
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Building my own Roof Rack

I wished the arb base rack was available for the 3rd gen runners. I want something very suttle and low profile. Lowest clearance possible. Footprint of the OE rack roughly. Just something nice low and flat. I could handle it going over the sun roof if it didn’t have some huge valance hanging way out.

I don’t want it to go almost all the way to the glass like most of the full ones do. I know most that buy these things want a fashion statement, but I don’t. I want to be able to tie gear down when needed, and have it out of the way and not a noisy mpg killing impediment.

Neighbor has an AEV JKUR hemi with a really slick flat roof rack. Sits really low on the hardtop.

Flat, low and suttle. That’s it. I’m not saying the other ones out there aren’t cool, but they’re just not for me.

Maybe I’ll just end up rolling my own.
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Old 12-10-2021, 11:49 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
I wished the arb base rack was available for the 3rd gen runners. I want something very suttle and low profile. Lowest clearance possible. Footprint of the OE rack roughly. Just something nice low and flat. I could handle it going over the sun roof if it didn’t have some huge valance hanging way out.

I don’t want it to go almost all the way to the glass like most of the full ones do. I know most that buy these things want a fashion statement, but I don’t. I want to be able to tie gear down when needed, and have it out of the way and not a noisy mpg killing impediment.

Neighbor has an AEV JKUR hemi with a really slick flat roof rack. Sits really low on the hardtop.

Flat, low and suttle. That’s it. I’m not saying the other ones out there aren’t cool, but they’re just not for me.

Maybe I’ll just end up rolling my own.

Hey man I totally feel you for the most part. Just about all of the racks that I've seen are way too bulky... But at the same time I don't like the ones that are just flat, I do like that bit of a basket.

I think mine will be pretty sleek if I can manage to complete it, it should be pretty low and compact
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Old 12-11-2021, 12:51 PM #19
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Um... Just found this while taking measurements... Do I need to tighten it down? As far as I can tell it doesn't leak so I'm afraid to touch it if it's in equilibrium

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Old 12-11-2021, 02:15 PM #20
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Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Um... Just found this while taking measurements... Do I need to tighten it down? As far as I can tell it doesn't leak so I'm afraid to touch it if it's in equilibrium


I would personally take it out, clean it up, add some silicone, and screw it down, all the way but not too tight. YMMV
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Old 12-11-2021, 07:58 PM #21
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Went down this same road awhile ago but never pulled the trigger. Yes, 80/20 is your best bet in the 40 series. I've installed literally miles of that stuff for machine guarding and it's way better than the Bosch-Rexroth extrusion. Yes, the connectors will be a major cost, esp for the hidden ones. To answer a few of your questions, the rails sit at slight angles down to the side, and are bowed front to back. You will need to make some spacers to get a level base off the rails. I forgot the angle down but the spacers came out to be approx a .300” difference middle to end in height. So if you had a .500 spacer in the middle you'd want .800 at the ends for flat across front to back. A 4 foot level can also verify this. If you have a 3d printer I can drop those spacer files in my link if you want to experiment with them. They are basically blocks that lock into the rail profile and the extrusion profile using the factory T-nuts...hell, you can have any files you want (Inventor format). I didn't detail any rails in cause I felt it would look too square in regards to the lines of our rigs. The nice thing about T-profiles is there are anchor points everywhere. I have some bent metal T-slot anchors I was going to use for tie-down points that would kinda work as well as rails I thought. If you don't have Fusion 360 you'll probably want to get that and become familiar with it. I figured for about 300-350 shipped and a little time you can have a DIY kit that will be way stronger than anything you could ever buy, and heavily modular/customizable. That's with the hidden fasteners, end caps, linear motion for adjustability, locking handles, etc. Again, I'm just sitting on this stuff, so if you want any of it lmk...
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Old 12-12-2021, 12:14 AM #22
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Originally Posted by Oregon Runner View Post
Went down this same road awhile ago but never pulled the trigger. Yes, 80/20 is your best bet in the 40 series. I've installed literally miles of that stuff for machine guarding and it's way better than the Bosch-Rexroth extrusion. Yes, the connectors will be a major cost, esp for the hidden ones. To answer a few of your questions, the rails sit at slight angles down to the side, and are bowed front to back. You will need to make some spacers to get a level base off the rails. I forgot the angle down but the spacers came out to be approx a .300” difference middle to end in height. So if you had a .500 spacer in the middle you'd want .800 at the ends for flat across front to back. A 4 foot level can also verify this. If you have a 3d printer I can drop those spacer files in my link if you want to experiment with them. They are basically blocks that lock into the rail profile and the extrusion profile using the factory T-nuts...hell, you can have any files you want (Inventor format). I didn't detail any rails in cause I felt it would look too square in regards to the lines of our rigs. The nice thing about T-profiles is there are anchor points everywhere. I have some bent metal T-slot anchors I was going to use for tie-down points that would kinda work as well as rails I thought. If you don't have Fusion 360 you'll probably want to get that and become familiar with it. I figured for about 300-350 shipped and a little time you can have a DIY kit that will be way stronger than anything you could ever buy, and heavily modular/customizable. That's with the hidden fasteners, end caps, linear motion for adjustability, locking handles, etc. Again, I'm just sitting on this stuff, so if you want any of it lmk...

Oh wow.

So see I was thinking about using external connectors... But seeing as how their are crazy expensive I've been looking for cheaper alternatives.

I think I counted 24 25x25mm (1") L brackets and 16 25x50mm (1"X2") L brackets.

Going to post some more pictures tomorrow. About to pass out... Haha
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Old 12-13-2021, 01:13 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregon Runner View Post
Went down this same road awhile ago but never pulled the trigger. Yes, 80/20 is your best bet in the 40 series. I've installed literally miles of that stuff for machine guarding and it's way better than the Bosch-Rexroth extrusion. Yes, the connectors will be a major cost, esp for the hidden ones. To answer a few of your questions, the rails sit at slight angles down to the side, and are bowed front to back. You will need to make some spacers to get a level base off the rails. I forgot the angle down but the spacers came out to be approx a .300” difference middle to end in height. So if you had a .500 spacer in the middle you'd want .800 at the ends for flat across front to back. A 4 foot level can also verify this. If you have a 3d printer I can drop those spacer files in my link if you want to experiment with them. They are basically blocks that lock into the rail profile and the extrusion profile using the factory T-nuts...hell, you can have any files you want (Inventor format). I didn't detail any rails in cause I felt it would look too square in regards to the lines of our rigs. The nice thing about T-profiles is there are anchor points everywhere. I have some bent metal T-slot anchors I was going to use for tie-down points that would kinda work as well as rails I thought. If you don't have Fusion 360 you'll probably want to get that and become familiar with it. I figured for about 300-350 shipped and a little time you can have a DIY kit that will be way stronger than anything you could ever buy, and heavily modular/customizable. That's with the hidden fasteners, end caps, linear motion for adjustability, locking handles, etc. Again, I'm just sitting on this stuff, so if you want any of it lmk...
I would be interested in your spacer files if you don't mind sharing them please.
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