Just make sure you re-tighten everything on the ground if you go with rubber bushings. You want to have all the bushings in their static positions (unloaded) at right height. Poly bushings can be tightened whenever, since they have sleeves that rotate in the bushing.

-Charlie

Replaced all bushings on lower arms, panhard, and passenger side upper control arm.
The last bolt on the driver side upper control arm is giving me a fight.
Expected an issue as they (front & rear bolts on this arm) were tough to remove.
Rear frame rails supported by stands and wheels suspended, no load.
Have ratchet strap pulling driver side of rear axle assembly forward and 3rd member supported by stand.
Tried just about everything to get this bolt to line up, raised & lowered 3rd member, released & tightened ratchet strap. Even tried a “C” clamp to pull the arm back against the bracket …..no luck.
Suggestions welcome and appreciated.

Attached Images

   

Pretty sure that's the one that gave me the biggest fight too. As I recall, I left it loose till I removed the shock (was replacing those also) and that made it very easy... so try popping the shock loose of the bottom mount.

Worth a shot as pretty much out of ideas.

You probably want to have all the other bolts loose back there while you are doing that. You may also have to remove the springs to cycle suspension height to get it to line up.

-Charlie

I haven’t tightened the forward positioned bolt on the upper arm in question and have yet to torque the passenger side upper arm either.
All the other bolts as in the lower control arms on both sides?

It is often false economy to try to leave too many things bolted up and in place... At this point, it is worth a try to loosen up the bottom arm bolts.

-Charlie

All buttoned up.
What finally did it was partially and slowly loading up the rear suspension and raising the rear diff assembly.
Loosened the panhard as well.
Allowed enough wiggle room for the remaining bolt to slide into place.
Thanks to all for the help.
Last thought…….is it necessary to get a wheel alignment after replacing all the rear bushings?

This was my method as well. I pulled the panhard bolt and cycled the suspension a few times and it worked out.

I would not say a rear alignment is required, but its a good idea to get one every 6 months or a year depending on how hard you drive.

Edit to add - There is nothing to adjust in the rear, so if it's off, you have a bent arm or axle...

Like Shadow said there isn't any adjustment in the rear suspension for alignment (unless you have adjustable upper/lower control arms).

*chuckles*

I think I usually get an alignment about once a Decade, right about the time I end up replacing suspension stuff. Tires always wear even... but I'm not a wheeler, dirt roads are my worst driving.

Sarki, aren't you doing the Front control arm bushings too? You will *ABSOLUTELY* need an alignment if you do the front lower control arm bushings, given that is the only adjustment on the stock setup. I'm a motorcycle guy, but gut feeling is you'd want one doing the Upper control arms too.

Exactly, planning to do an alignment once I pull apart the front control arms but not sure when I‘ll have time to tear into that project.
Had an alignment a year or two ago when I did the LBJ’s & inner/outer tie rods but recall someone saying it would be needed after rear bushings.
All good as hate bringing it to a shop for alignment, tough to find a knowledgeable shop.

as others have said.....there is no alignment for the back end, unless things got way bent....then thats a frame shop alignemnt.

however.....that said...if it gets lifted and you dont do anything like pan hard brackets or an adjustable panhard rod your gonna get the rear end out of factory specs. Its gonna shift to the pass side I think. Ive read where people can get the rear end shifted by almost an inch over stock....so thats like sticking the wheel out past a fender on one side, and inboard on the other.
that will in effect mess with tracking as now the rear wheels are not in line with the front wheels...how critical ???? but it should not be a deal with alignment of the front.
some alignment shops do 4 wheel alignment...and on some cars they cant do anything with the back. what they are trying to do is get the front in line with the rear, yet get the front within factory specs for the front only as thats all they can adjust such as our rigs.
clear as mud