Originally Posted by brillo_76

I wish toyota would have made it easier to do.

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

Amen, I neglected 96Red on this because it is a PITA totaled @ 374k, 01 thinking it needs looking at @225k soon.

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Mostly it is averaging around the 250K to 300K mark for adjustments to be needed. While from what I am seeing anyhow.. :-)

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

That rule of thumb I've heard also.
With 01 pulling engine not far down the road will get done then fo sure.

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I would think some engine performance would come back some too with the valves in the proper clearance values as well. :-)

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

No doubt back to square one most cases.



It's worth doing I'm not willing to do it in engine bay, Lol.

Nearing time where pulling engine for other things. More CC's.

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I spent most of my Sunday driving. I drove to the Arkansas/Mississippi border about 3 hours away to buy a front and rear axle from @96RedRunner . (Thank you again by the way!) Then drove back, unhooked the trailer, ate a late lunch, then drove an hour and a half to Russellville to meet someone that was selling a 98 V6/manual/4wd to test drive. It was in a little rougher shape than I was hoping for and ultimately ended up not buying it. I did learn some important things while test driving it:

-Grey interior is even worse looking in person (in my opinion).

-Non sunroof headliners have so much more headroom! I’m jealous!

-I definitely have a slight input shaft bearing noise in my current transmission.

-Clutch engagement point is roughly the same.

-Clutch start switch engagement point is roughly the same.

-My engine rpm’s remaining high while coasting in neutral is not normal (or at least this one didn’t do it).

-Victory 4x4 roof rack makes more wind noise than I would be willing to tolerate. Not that I actually need or want a roof rack, but it’s nice to know for the future.



On the drive to pick up the front and rear axles I got 19.7 mpg towing a 6x12 single axle utility trailer without a tailgate. Not bad! I only got 17.6 mpg on the way back though which is still pretty good in my opinion. About 7 miles into the return trip I hit a ridge in the road that I thought was going to catapult me to the moon. It ended up shifting the rear axle on the trailer enough to where the wood blocks it was on shifted from underneath it so I had to spend 20 minutes on the side of the road in 110 degree heat index rearranging the rear axle on the trailer. The rest of the trip home went without any problems though.



The rear axle I bought doesn’t have any of the brake lines, brake cables, wheel cylinders or shoes/hardware which isn’t a problem. I’m planning on going through this axle and replacing the wheel bearings/seals/retainers and installing midcoma’s rear disc brake conversion kit. I’ve already got the pads and calipers needed to go with the kit. I did order the brake line junction for the rear axle and an axle vent valve from Toyota dealership next door to my work. They should be here any day now.



I’m still working on drywall for the kitchen/dining room renovation which has taken top priority to every other project I have going right now unless it is pressing maintenance. If anyone here is considering doing their own drywall work just don’t. I really should have paid someone to do this and saved myself a lot of time and suffering. Drywall work sucks!

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

On the drive to pick up the front and rear axles I got 19.7 mpg towing a 6x12 single axle utility trailer without a tailgate. Not bad! I only got 17.6 mpg on the way back though which is still pretty good in my opinion.

Originally Posted by brillo_76

The most ever got was 21mpg on highway..

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I’m still working on drywall for the kitchen/dining room renovation which has taken top priority to every other project I have going right now unless it is pressing maintenance. If anyone here is considering doing their own drywall work just don’t. I really should have paid someone to do this and saved myself a lot of time and suffering. Drywall work sucks!

Originally Posted by Sarki

Here ya on the drywall, one of the few projects I leave for the folks that do it for a living. Such a messy job, one that I would rather part with a few greenbacks to get it done right and not deal with the mess.

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Ya definitely underestimated how time consuming and labor intensive drywall is. Not to mention the skill required to get good results. The only real way to learn how to do it is to do it. I’m trying to convince myself that home renovation is my new hobby and drywall work is a good skill to know. I know more about drywall than I ever thought possible.

Originally Posted by brillo_76

It's like body work. I only use screws to hold the drywall. The mudding and sanding the joints is the real pain. I haven't been involved in drywall project in years. I rather work in cars..lol. hang in there.

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