01-06-2022, 10:24 AM
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#1
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Lift gate rattle on my daughter's '97
Hey folks,
I did a quick search but didn't see anything obvious so I'm posting up. How do I stop the rear lift gate from rattling (going in/out) over bumps? I was thinking would it help to replace the plastic guide things on both sides of the lift gate plus the ones on the body? This is where they come together when you close the lift gate. I didn't see any way to adjust the latch that's on the body. But, the latch on the liftgate itself maybe adjustable or simply replace it due to years of wear? I was looking at it closely and it looks "tired"!!
Thanks.
edit: found this thread and I've done this already to no avail :0(
Rear Hatch Rattling and Banging
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
Last edited by alia176; 01-06-2022 at 10:26 AM.
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01-06-2022, 04:46 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Austin, Texas
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Hard to diagnose via a post - best answer is to try to isolate it while in the truck. For example, stand outside and shake the liftgate, see where it comes from. The center, either side, or inside? You could also go into the back of the truck and close the gate, then try to reproduce again.
If the latch mechanism is worn out, then most likely replacement is the only choice. On the other hand it could be a plastic clip, a wire, or even an interior panel that is causing the noise. It doesn't take much for it to be pretty loud.
My 2 cents!
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01-06-2022, 05:37 PM
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#3
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I also have this problem but been unable to solve it, mostly out of laziness but I too tried to aforementioned solution and only had it help a little bit. I've tried shaking and rattling everything possible back there and couldn't deduce anything so if you find something do post it here. Wrapping the latch in tape appeared to help but not certain
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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01-06-2022, 06:38 PM
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#4
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The ring that the locking mechanism clamps to was worn on mine from years of use. I welded some material onto it to fill in the worn spot and ground it back to the original shape. You can also loosen and move the rubber bumpers that the hatch contacts. You may need to make some “adjustments” to the bolt holes to allow it some room to move
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99 SR-5 Highlander Elocker, 1.5” body lift, Ironman FCP coilover, FJ cruiser bilstein lift coils and fj80 kyb rear shocks, JBA ucas, TC gussets, custom front & rear tube bumpers, poly bushings all around, 33/12.5/15 on steels. 396k
98 Base 4x4 3rz. 5100s and ome coils. TBU. 360k
96 Taco rcsb 4x4 3rz 320k
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01-07-2022, 11:34 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZSW99
The ring that the locking mechanism clamps to was worn on mine from years of use. I welded some material onto it to fill in the worn spot and ground it back to the original shape. You can also loosen and move the rubber bumpers that the hatch contacts. You may need to make some “adjustments” to the bolt holes to allow it some room to move
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Just to make sure I understand, you took apart the upper hatch locking mechanism and found a worn out piece? I don't suppose you have any pics of what you did? I might do the same thing, sounds easy enough.
I'll try using 1/8" alum spacer to the rubber bumpers on both sides of the body to see if that slows down the rattling.
I can clearly move the hatch in/out quite easily. Same thing on my 4th gen but not nearly as sever.
I'm going to get a quote for these rubber pieces from my local dealer to see if it's worth spending the coin.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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01-07-2022, 01:01 PM
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#6
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I popped my panel off and sound deadened it, doesn't rattle at all.
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01-07-2022, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
Just to make sure I understand, you took apart the upper hatch locking mechanism and found a worn out piece? I don't suppose you have any pics of what you did? I might do the same thing, sounds easy enough.
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No I didn’t mess with the latch mechanism, just the ring that it clamps too that sits right above the bumper. Mine had a decent groove worn into it. That ring just attaches with two bolts so you may be able to just replace it easily if you find a less worn one. The piece that the ring attaches to is just a thin metal plate so you could try gently bending it down some too, that would probably help tighten things up
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99 SR-5 Highlander Elocker, 1.5” body lift, Ironman FCP coilover, FJ cruiser bilstein lift coils and fj80 kyb rear shocks, JBA ucas, TC gussets, custom front & rear tube bumpers, poly bushings all around, 33/12.5/15 on steels. 396k
98 Base 4x4 3rz. 5100s and ome coils. TBU. 360k
96 Taco rcsb 4x4 3rz 320k
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01-08-2022, 09:15 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZSW99
No I didn’t mess with the latch mechanism, just the ring that it clamps too that sits right above the bumper. Mine had a decent groove worn into it. That ring just attaches with two bolts so you may be able to just replace it easily if you find a less worn one. The piece that the ring attaches to is just a thin metal plate so you could try gently bending it down some too, that would probably help tighten things up
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Ahhh, thanks for the clarification. On my 4th gen, I was able to flip this ring around 180deg but not so on the 3rd gen. So, I'll do as you did, build it up with some tiny amount of welding then sand it smooth.
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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01-10-2022, 03:58 PM
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#9
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Just a quick update:
Daughter told me this am that her liftgate isn't rattling anymore after the washer mod. Since this worked, I'll see if I can find a 1" wide by 2.5" long (guess) 1/16" alum material with two holes drilled. It's a simple spacer but a little more elegant than washers!
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2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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01-10-2022, 05:46 PM
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#10
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I may try to make some kind of a spacer like that too. Sounds like a good idea to get a little more tension on those rubber bumpers when the hatch is closed.
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99 SR-5 Highlander Elocker, 1.5” body lift, Ironman FCP coilover, FJ cruiser bilstein lift coils and fj80 kyb rear shocks, JBA ucas, TC gussets, custom front & rear tube bumpers, poly bushings all around, 33/12.5/15 on steels. 396k
98 Base 4x4 3rz. 5100s and ome coils. TBU. 360k
96 Taco rcsb 4x4 3rz 320k
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01-10-2022, 07:03 PM
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#11
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After being rear ended my trunk now has a squeak that im finding impossible to identify. The body shop is refusing to help any further. Does the washer mod only fix a "rattle" or are we describing the same thing using different words?
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01-10-2022, 08:43 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoveB4Flight
After being rear ended my trunk now has a squeak that im finding impossible to identify. The body shop is refusing to help any further. Does the washer mod only fix a "rattle" or are we describing the same thing using different words?
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I mean it's worth a shot, it only takes two minutes, but it depends on what exactly is squeaking. Fwiw my hatch also has a squeak sometimes that I've been unable to pin down, including with the washers trick
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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01-10-2022, 08:45 PM
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#13
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My rattles and squeaks ended up being my license plate frame...
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01-11-2022, 01:51 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
My rattles and squeaks ended up being my license plate frame...
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Hmmmm... would explain why i haven't found it in the interior..
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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01-11-2022, 02:44 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoveB4Flight
After being rear ended my trunk now has a squeak that im finding impossible to identify. The body shop is refusing to help any further. Does the washer mod only fix a "rattle" or are we describing the same thing using different words?
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One way to narrow this annoyance down is to roll down the rear hatch window then pull and push the hatch to see if you can recreate it.
In my case, I was able to move the entire thing by almost 1/8"+ or so.
__________________
2003 Sport V8 Icon 2" rear, Bilstein 6112 front with 700# king springs, Gibson cat back, Magnaflow cross pipe. OBA, DIY sliders, etc
1996 FZJ80 landcruiser with whole bunch of stuff, including a Turbo.
1997 4Runner SR5 - daughter's ride, slowly getting built up
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