Howdy everyone,

This is a "what would you do" post to check crowd wisdom to see if I've missed anything and add it to my list. For our 2002 Limited in great condition with mostly no frame rust (PNW), ~152k miles, I've decided to forego replacing it with a Tesla or any other new, choice-denying, sensor-festooned, privacy-obliterating, high-cost "car." Instead, I have two immediate objectives for ye olde T4R:

1. Prepare for a 5000 mile road trip in the March/April timeframe. Maybe haul a small trailer for the last 2500 miles.
2. Refresh for the long haul - keep it going until someone kills it, steals it, or outlaws it.. and maybe at some point convert it to electric after kits are readily available

So, here are the highlights of what I've done since purchase in January 2015:

• Ok, first one is a reference point - LBJ recall at 39,576, 3/7/2006
• body junction box (door lock brain, etc.) at 132,812, 4/15/2017
• water pump, thermostat, timing belt, radiator (no milkshake, just maintenance) at 141,542, 9/6/2018
• Toyota spark plug wire set at 142,926, 1/31/2019
• Dueler AT/Revo 3 tires (4) at 142,970, 2/3/2019
• alignment, differential, and transfer case service at 143,192, 2/20/2019
• ignition coils, spark plugs, MAF, PCV valve at 146,488, 8/31/2019 (old ones in rolling stock)
• Toyota TrueStart battery, 7yr at 151,321, 4/18/2021

Here's my to-do list, ideally using all genuine Toyota parts when available:

• LBJs certainly, maybe other BJs, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, rear axle seals, brakes, e-brake adjustment/repair
• engine compression test, valve adjustment (replace seals, etc. on way out)
• replace suspension bushings
• wheel alignment
• drive train lubrication
• cat-back repair or replacement, maybe, looks like I've got some perforations
• transmission cooler
• frame rust inspection, eradication, and preventive measures
• coke bottle rim and new AT/Revo tire for spare
• climate control unit re-light service - if that guy's still doing it
• privacy respecting bug/tracker if such a thing exists - Apple AirTags? Hmm...
• Tacoma antenna whip mod, stereo head unit, speakers, etc.

Do you see anything I've missed? Glaring errors?

...time passes...

Update, 1/13/2022
Nice! Good to get other eyes on the plan. Thanks everyone. Here’s a summary of your additional items:

• Starter & alternator rebuild/refresh. Avoid losing the cores to non-genuine Toyota parts.
• ABS system flush and check, including master cylinder check and replacement in stock
• Power steering fluid flush and change
• Test/replace exhaust front and rear oxygen sensors - possibly key factor in MPG drop
• Check for rear axle seal leakage. If replace, then note @mtbtim ’s seal difference finding in his video
• Check and repair CV axle boots as needed
• Water heater valve in engine bay / heater control valve
• As can find reasonable pricing, stock up on HVAC unit, brake master cylinder, seat belts, rear hatch computer harness

thx,
tim

On that to do list, are all those things wrong/failed or just doing them cuz others had trouble in same area?

Well, both, to a degree. While nothing in the running gear has failed significantly, items are wrong, becoming wrong, and increasing the risk of some of the consequences others have shared of experiencing failure while moving. Also, time and motion optimization. So, for example, LBJs are presumably genuine Toyota, replaced about 16 years and 112,500 miles ago with the design that maybe doesn't come apart during failure, mangle the running gear, flip the truck, and spew the humans and their stuff everywhere. I'm thinking the LBJs are probably a fair maintenance item at this point. While I'm in there, it makes sense to me to take care of anything else that I should view as a maintenance item, like the upper ball joints, tie rod ends, brake pads which were a bit below 3mm last time I checked, rotor if it needs it, wheel bearing, shocks/springs (ah hah! there's one I missed), bushings, etc. Another example - My fuel mileage has been slowly decreasing from an average of around 18mpg to an average of about 15mpg. Among other potential causes, I can't tell that the valves have ever been adjusted and the valve cover seals are starting to leak a little. While I'm in there... you get the picture.

Where do you live?

in the Seattle, WA area - PNW

List looks pretty good. The valve adjustment might be a little extra, but if you want to do it more power to you. Most of us haven't touched our valves.

I would add a rebuild of the starter contacts to the list, failure of the starter at that mileage is pretty common and the parts to rebuild it are dirt cheap. It's a pretty easy job.

Also change the brake and power steering fluid while you're freshening everything up.

I’d recommend replacing the front and rear oxygen sensors as well. That should help a little with your lower fuel economy.

Power steering reservoir cleaning and fluid flush, brake fluid flush are also both good recommendations.

I’d also recommend checking your rear axle seals. Pull the rear wheel speed sensors out and look at the tone ring while you spin the axle shaft. You’ll probably have to twist and pull on the wheel speed sensors to get them out. Make sure when you install the wheel speed sensors they are fully seated against the axle housing otherwise you might get abs codes/issues.

Starter rebuild and alternator rebuild would be the icing on the cake in my opinion.

I'm currently in the middle of refreshing my 1998 4Runner with 230k miles. These are on my to do list

• Lower & upper ball joints - done
• tie rod ends - done
• steering rack bushings - done
• Inspect the CV axles - if torn replace - done
• New suspension all the way around - done
• New tires all the way around - done
• all new fluids
• Have timing belt done
• Replace rear control arm bushings

I think with this you'll be set for a while!

When was the last time you flushed your trans and diff fluids?

Stock up on some of the electronic HVAC units or learn how to repair them
If I had a dollar for every post I've seen about one being broken, I could buy another 4Runner

@PoshSnoop Maybe consider keeping an eye out for a good deal on a master cylinder. They’re pricey on the 01-02s and it’s better to find one cheap before you need one and just hang on to it, rather than waiting until you’re stranded. Just a thought.

I love it! I love seeing a commitment to what many consider poor financial choices cause “ it ain’t wurth it….”And pouring copious amounts of cash into an old vehicle, like I have.

I also have done something quite similar. It’s not quite a restoration I guess, but essentially replacing and repairing all the components to bring it to the best spec possible without going down the body off rabbit hole.

Seat back cushions are one of the biggest challenges, somehow I miraculously found a part number that worked and I now have two front seat back cushions.

You already did the body module, so that’s good. I also have one sitting in my garage.

Ecm’s and don’t seem to be an issue with these which is kind of good too.

I don’t hear of too many failures with the computer in the rear hatch door, but there is copious failures with the harness that goes to it. I also replaced my harness this year.

Mine is an 99, so it’s a little bit more straightforward than yours. I agree with the previous sentiment that The HVAC control is something you should probably have either a new replacement, or know how to fix yours. That honestly may be one of your biggest challenges is that piece.

I’m not super schooled up on how your transfer case system operates, but there’s probably a few bits and pieces that are special where that’s an electronic set up. I imagine the ABS system and the master system is something that will probably cause issues for you down the road since it’s a bit more specialized, and there are obviously fewer limited in the world than the other models. But who knows, maybe there’s a supply chain of replacements out there in the aftermarket. I hear you on the wanting to go OEM as possible. As a guy who’s been changing parts on vehicles for three decades, it’s definitely not what it used to be as far as quality in the aftermarket.

Blower motors are still plentiful, if that something you may wish to essentially future proof, probably buy an Oem blower fan to have around.

Headlight lenses are still available too. Who knows for how many more years though.

As far as the doors, I am going to go aftermarket and use the Russian door checkers like timmy the tool man made a video on and aftermarket complete actuators. I kind of doubt the OEM actuators will be much of an improvement on the aftermarket there.

I also replaced all of the rear gate hardware, including the plastic bezel, lights latch and cable. The rear striker latch strangely was in excellent shape and I don’t know that it necessarily ever needs to be replaced.

The water heater valve on top of the engine is something that you should probably swap out at some point.

Oem gas rear gate struts are also still available.

The door gasket seals is probably something that should be considered also.

Seatbelts is another one it’s a bit tricky. Not sure what your interior color is, gray and oak front seatbelts are still available, and in the rear only the gray is available. The condition of my rear belts is pretty good, so I bought new retractors and I’m going to wash clean and swap my old fabric to the new retractors. Seatbelt planet is an option for new webbing of custom or Oem replica if wanted. My driver belt has chewed up terribly, but I was able to source a complete new unit with the squib. You’ll spend about $900-$1000 just to source all retractable new belts in the rig.

I’m probably forgetting something else but that should cover the highlights.

I would add a new radiator. Also a external tranny cooler if you off road or tow. Replacing cracked rubber vacuum hoses should be on that list as well as heater control valve.

Yup, for sure. I did a radiator and condenser in mine. The condenser is pretty cheap too really, hundred and something bucks. Roll in a new receiver dryer while you’re there too.

Buy new grill clips also. They’re so cheap it’s not even worth messing with old ones.

Super easy radiator job. Probably one of the easiest ones I’ve ever been around.

The vacuum hoses are kind of pricey from Toyota. But when you are already committed to financial ruin, what the heck what’s another two to $300 in vacuum hoses.

I say financial ruin in jest. It really isn’t, it’s orders of magnitude cheaper to do this sort of thing then to go spend a gajillion dollars on something else. A 2013 Rubicon locally is over $30K…… that seems downright silly for an almost 10-year-old jeep. There’s cars on buy here pay here lots in my town that should probably cost five to $7000 going for 20 K. It’s downright stupid and I refuse to play that game.

I am with you, I could totally afford the newer iron, but why? I don’t necessarily want to be on a first name basis with everyone in the shop keeping all these newer vehicles running. Even my newer tundra has had some surprising issues. The neighbors 15 powerstroke needed a new DEF system…. $2k later….. and now there’s a chance it needs a new exhaust system too….. yeah, F all that……..

I’ll wait until we get the Mr. Fusion swap as an option when the Kings men…..er….. peoples… yeah, the kings peoples outlaws the ICE systems that power our modern life because they violate the social contract and all. The battery electric swap might be cool, but I’m gonna hold out for that Mr. Fusion like back to the future had. 🥸

I'll ponder a bit longer before committing.

Yep, good ones. Got it!