I think I already know the answer to my question, but just double checking with ya’ll.

On cold weather cold starts (<25*F cold starts) I get some condensation coming out the tail pipe. But today the condensation in the exhaust system revealed a leak. The leak is in the last joint after the muffler.

Question:
There’s no reason to fix this, right?

I’d like to eventually install all new cat back, something like the Magnaflow Overland series, so I’d rather not mess with my old worn out and rusting out exhaust until I’m ready to replace it all, if I can help it.

In the photo, you can see a water droplet at the joint, and the water that has dropped and splashed onto the rear sway bar and diff.

(Unrelated, but just in case someone asks: that yellowish waxy stuff is 3M Rust Fighter-I Cavity Wax that was sprayed all up inside the nooks and crannies, after all the blasting and POR-15.)



Thanks!!

The only reason to address it is if you were sleeping in the vehicle while it was idling (or, I guess, just stationary for long stretches while idling). But even then, path of least resistance is going to put the majority of gasses out the back.

I drove around for a while with the exhaust cut off right about there, I didn’t die but I’m already retarded so ymmv

If you want to replace the exhaust eventually I see very little reason to mess with it now. If your tailpipe was full on blown apart, sure, but a pinhole won't kill you
Been thinking about dumping the exhaust right there... Only thing that's stopping me is exhaust accumulation leads to sulphuric acid condensing, which leads to rust

Thanks everyone

I find myself recoiling like a vampire walking into the sunlight at even the mention of the R word.

Mine is already rusty and heavily fluid filmed and oiled so I didn’t really notice a difference when the exhaust was dumped there, I think if you put a turn down it won’t really hurt the frame if you keep it clean and take measures to prevent rust

Very common for these flanges to start seeping. I had a walker exhaust rust off right there in 4 to 5 years. If it's just a seep leave it alone unless you want to replace your entire exhaust from the cat back...

It's also always best to vent the exhaust out to the rear or side. As I used to see folks rot there beds off in the 80s and 90s by not fixing busted off exhaust around here.

As long as you don't see carbon and soot on your frame and or body it's ok...

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Well, I said I wasn't going to fix this, but I can't quite help myself, so I sanded/scuffed and cleaned the metal at the flange, and then generously applied some J-B Weld ExtremeHeat paste. I'll let it cure for 24 hours and see if that fixes this (minor) exhaust leak.

Lol. It got you.. That may work.. I tried it and only may work if you take it apart. New gasket and the high temp jb weld.

I am going to use new bolts new gasket and permitix ultra copper exhaust gasket majer on these rusty flanges. I believe I have better succes then using the ultra high temp job weld..

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Only driven on it one day, but so far so good. Will be interesting to see how long this holds up.

I tell you.. but I am curious if it's the same for your area...

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

So far the JB Weld is holding up at the flange after the muffler (see previous posts in this thread for photo).

But fixing that leak revealed another one in front of the muffler!

You can see the smoke from the cold (5*F) cold start in the photo:





I have the feeling this will be a game of whack-a-mole until I replace it all…

Will be watching this thread as my original muffler looks about the same and has a leak in the same spot.
Not sure which direction I’ll go when the time comes…..at least there’s options.

I know that on the back cat flange because of the metal expanding and contracting the JB Weld high temp will crack off in time. :-( Most likely the metal around that hole is extremely thin and if you try to weld it shut it will most likely make
this hole worse.

So this I how I fix these cat back exhaust issues:

1.) I buy a replacement rear cat exhaust hanger.
I cut the nuts off and use stainless steel bolts and
nuts with washers so they don't rot up and can be
removed again.

2) If the flange on the cat is rough. I use new oem
gaskets with permatex ultra copper maximum temperature
rtv gasket maker to help the flanges reseal with the new
gasket.

3.) Then I use Northern Stainless exhaust because
Toyota OEM exhaust are insane. Walker only last 4 to
5 years in my environment then they rot off.

Ebay Link to Northern Stainless exhaust 1996-2000

OR

Ebay Link to Northern Stainless exhaust 1999-2002

Thank you!! Great info and advice as always