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Old 01-24-2022, 12:23 PM #16
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Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering View Post
Haha, "$100 toe-and-go" - that's basically what it is!

I made the adjustments with the truck resting on the ground (one advantage of having a lifted truck).

I have the AccuLevel with the wheel mount Amazon.com: Longacre(R) 52-78298 Digital C/C Gauge, AccuLevel/QuickSet : Automotive., makes the process much easier -

Pls stop spending my money.

Any trouble making the adjustments with weight on the wheels? I've heard of people "borrowing" trays from fast food restaurants and sticking them under the tires to reduce friction.
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Old 01-24-2022, 01:27 PM #17
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Pls stop spending my money.

Any trouble making the adjustments with weight on the wheels? I've heard of people "borrowing" trays from fast food restaurants and sticking them under the tires to reduce friction.
It wasn't too hard to rotate the cams, I sort of "helped" the movements by pushing on the tire in the needed direction. But I can see having trays or cardboard pieces underneath to help things along.
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Old 01-24-2022, 05:01 PM #18
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I was able to make changes on the ground too. To check things, you would want to roll it forward and back a bit to relieve any leftover forces on the tires/bushings.

You generally want to bias your cross-camber and cross-caster with the right side being more negative (about 0.2* for each) which counters road crown a bit without causing any L/R wear imbalances.

0.4* cross-camber isn't great, but 0.2* is fine. Also, coming from a mostly car background, I can't wrap my head around near-0 camber... I haven't had a car with less than 1* camber F+R rear since about 2000. Trucks be trucks though.

Otherwise, good job getting it right!

-Charlie
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Old 01-28-2022, 11:39 AM #19
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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
I was able to make changes on the ground too. To check things, you would want to roll it forward and back a bit to relieve any leftover forces on the tires/bushings.

You generally want to bias your cross-camber and cross-caster with the right side being more negative (about 0.2* for each) which counters road crown a bit without causing any L/R wear imbalances.

0.4* cross-camber isn't great, but 0.2* is fine. Also, coming from a mostly car background, I can't wrap my head around near-0 camber... I haven't had a car with less than 1* camber F+R rear since about 2000. Trucks be trucks though.

Otherwise, good job getting it right!

-Charlie
Thanks Charlie! I view it the same way - it's a truck, not a refined sports car; it drives perfectly fine by my standards; the alignment numbers are looking good enough; => call it done and move on to other things to obsess over
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