So I got some of these to test out on my uniball set... 0/10 do not recommend, doesn't work at all. In fact I'm not seeing how they would work for anything since they require the uniball to be perfectly straight - if it moves at all, well, the "boot" just gets yanked along with it. Very weird considering this is what they're sold for, but I just cannot see any world in which they do anything in any application
If the uniball was fixed in place then they'd be awesome and fit perfectly

Two more ideas... maybe a stock LBJ boot will swap over. Otherwise a universal poly one.

After reading through this, curious if you guys recommend swapping out the stock bolts with stronger ones for stock LBJ's?

This was my next attempt for sure, if I recall you can get even variety packs of generic "universal" boots with different sizes and whatnot. Just wanted to try the others first cause they were so dang cheap lol

It won't hurt. I did it on my rig, and a friends rig. I recommend it to everyone.

I don't see them being strong than the knuckle anyway. But we sure do see a lot of sheered bolts on the trail. I check mine every single time before I wheel.

Define check them, like retorque?
Do you loctite em?

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What's the exact size? Where are you guys sourcing then from?

ARP (663-1003) Hex Oxide Bolt, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKA48F0...ing=UTF8&psc=1

SS is 763-1003

I was gonna post the link to Anonymous Fab, but it seems they currently aren't offering the ARP bolts anymore despite me purchasing some a week ago. Very odd

Swood. And we're sure it doesn't hurt anything? Not trying to question anyone, just want to be careful since this is the Achilles heel for this generation lol.

And rather than make a whole new thread, while we're talking about it, are you guys swapping over to the tundra ball joint or just sticking with the oem 4runner one? My next swap out is coming up soon which is why I'm asking.

You need the 35mm length for 01-02 with the Ball Joint Protectors.

Sorry, the world revolves around my 99, aka 3rd Gens 96-2000 since so much changed in 2001+
01-02 also take a captive washer'd bolt

99-00 takes an M10 x 1.25, 30mm bolt

The ARP fasteners s ship with 2.25mm thick washers that I did not use because they would have made the bolts too short...

Yes. You realize we're talking about a bolt right? I'm curious how it would be "hurting" anything
Also are you sure the LBJs will fit? I'm 99% sure Tundra LBJs don't fit our vehicles; fairly certain like Tacos their steering differs. Nor do I believe there's anything different with the ball joint itself between 4Runners, Tacos, Sequoias and Tundras - the ball joint doesn't get any beefier and it's not made with a stronger steel or anything, in the end I fail to see exactly what would be stronger about them. I could be wrong (and often am) cause I haven't looked into it whatsoever but it sounds like a hell of a headache for not much gain

I don't know, I was just wondering if maybe the bolt is designed to have a specific amount of stretch that matches the knuckle, maybe a stronger bolt would damage the threads on the knuckle? I know that's really reaching out far, but again this is the Achilles heel area.

As for the Tacoma ball joint, a long time ago I remember seeing people talking about using it. They said that it was bigger so therefore they were hoping that it was slightly stronger just from the little bit of the size increase. It bolted up but you have to switch the outer tie rod to the Tacoma one, and most likely you should run without the front sway bar. I think you just lost a wee bit of steering radius but that was all.

Maybe it's not worth it, if only I could see both parts side by side just to get an idea

Anonymous Fabrication uses the same 7/8" uniball on the different LBJs

Stronger bolts/higher shear strength still probably aren't going to tear the threads out of a forged knuckle

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