So happy with the 5.29s
I seriously thought that it was going to bug me until I got the 35s but it feels amazing.
Did the initial break in and drove 60 miles with 2 pit stops in between to let things cool down.
I honestly couldn’t be happier.
Now to see how they feel on the trail.

I'm super stoked for you, and from past experience I know that going too conservative on gears is usually a mistake. I'm contemplating regearing and having the same internal debate with the 5-speed manual caveat of lower trans gears...

Looking forward to your trail report

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Personally, either you have the knowledge to build it yourself (so you're saving on labor costs) or you have one built complete for you, especially the front (it's a total PITA).

East Coast Gear Supply is the best in the biz when it comes to ordering built diffs. You also get a warranty on the entire diff, whereas having a random shop do it, you wont. Just on the parts. If it blows, you're gonna be out on labor again.

In all reality you're not really paying much more, if at all, for the convenience. Between the gears, master kit, and shop labor you're potentially there.

The biggest factor to consider is you have to pay a core deposit. Sure, you'll get it back once you send in your old diff, but it's up front money out of your pocket for the time being. There are some limitations for the core, just to be aware of.

Lead time could be a factor if you're in an emergency type situation, which doesn't sound like you are.

My front diff is built by ECGS w/ 4.88s and ARB locker. My rear elocker diff, that just recently blew, is now being replaced by an ECGS diff with 4.88s. Currently waiting. I highly recommend them, as do many others.

Sage advice there @JWaldz plus, setting pinion depth using a crush sleeve requires a bit of experience and tooling to do right.

Did you have them install their sleeve to replace the needle bearing on the front diff?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I ran 34's for a while on 5.29's before I went full retard with the Pitbull Rockers in 35". They are a true 35 and measured 35.25" aired up with the weight of the truck on them. Once I drove the rig with those under it I really wished they made deeper gears for our rigs. lol

Awesome to hear!

Just curious about speed accuracy here. If the speed sensor is in transmission and calibrated for the 4.30’s, then isn’t it more transmission output revolutions for that same speed? Meaning, the display is showing “X” amount of revolutions to achieve 60mph but really it’s an additional revolution to travel the same distance?

Or maybe it’s close enough and who gives a shit especially if you’re satisfied. Just a random thought I had when I saw the picture.

I’m betting 4 low on the trail is gonna feel waaaay different. Going to take an entire additional driveshaft revolution for the tires to travel the same distance.

So I was good at math once upon a time. Does this make any sense?:

33” tire = 16.5” radius = 103.6” circumference (or the distance traveled on a single tire rotation).

5,280 feet per mile x 12 inches per foot = 63,360 inches per mile.

63,360 inches per mile / 103.6 inches traveled per tire revolution = 611.5 tire revolutions per mile.

611.5 x 4.30 factory gearing = 2629 driveshaft revolutions per mile. (So at 60 factory mph, the driveshaft would spin 2629 times in one minute and display 60 on the gauge)

611.5 x 5.29 new gearing = 3235 driveshaft revolutions per mile on new gearing. Meaning to travel the same distance, the driveshaft needs to spin 3235 times. But it’s only traveling 2629 times to SHOW 60 on the speedo (as theorized above).

2629 actual / 3235 needed for same distance = 81% of revolutions required by driveshaft per mile. (Meaning you’re only traveling 81% of the distance required as compared to factory calibrated speedo)

81% of 60 miles per hour = 49 miles per hour. There’s no way it’s that far off is it?

That means you’d have to have a displayed 87 mph to be going 70 actual (87 X 81% = 70)

Man that’s a big difference. If that’s true it would mean you’re adding false miles too. You need to find a radar checker and see if that’s the case haha. Or maybe you put in a calibrated speedo gear and I just wasted my time.

Idk math at all
But my Speedo is 4-5 mph off
So really I was going 65 in the pic
I also called my wife who was in front of me she said she had her car in cruise control at 65mph
I was right behind her
I really need to find a radar checker or open google maps while I’m driving to check my actual mph.

For vehicles with ABS the speedometer uses the wheel speed sensors at the axle shafts (front wheel speed sensors in the steering knuckle and rear wheel speed sensors on the axle housing). This means that any changes before the wheel speed sensors do not affect the speedometer accuracy. Only changes after the wheel speed sensor (larger tires) affect the speedometer accuracy.

For vehicles without abs the speed sensor is in the transmission output housing for 2wd or the transfer case rear output for 4wd. Meaning that any changes after that including differential gear ratios and different size tires will cause the speedometer to be inaccurate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha. I’m such a dipshit. Google maps or gps would clearly and easily tell you the answer. But I still had fun moving around fancy numbers.

Yeah good call. I was pretty sure the older ones had a sensor to feed speedo directly, and wasn’t sure if wheel speed sensors were for ABS alone or dual purpose and also fed the speedo.

Can one "adjust" speedo accuracy or just need to know our real speed when changing tire size?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

You can but it requires installing a Dakota Digital speedometer calibrator. Phattyduck has one installed but I can't seem to find a more detailed write up from him. Here's the post I found: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3389970-post7.html I'll try quoting him here and see if we can summon the master.

Thanks for posting this & showing your rpm at speed. I'm on 315/75/16 & have been back & forth between 4.88 & 5.29. The majority of my work commute is on the interstate which is why I was initially considering 4.88 but recently have been leaning towards 5.29. This helped.

There is, Nitro gears makes a 5.71 super short gear set. I considered it for a hot minute before buying the 5.29's that are sitting on my bench as I save up the funds for installation. I think that with 5.71's it'd be a bit of a pain to drive on the highway with RPM's around 3200 at 70 MPH.

I believe our Tacoma cousins lucked out and they can 're-gear' the speedometer signal from the transmission along with any tire or gear change. Our 4Runners for some reason were made differently and we cannot without altering the voltage signal.