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Old 03-03-2022, 11:31 AM #16
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It also helps having a decent oil filter wrench. Assenmacher makes a high quality cast aluminum cup style wrench which fits the factory Toyota filters very well. They aren't much more $$ than the cheapo stamped steel cup wrenches, which don't fit worth a $#%@.
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Old 03-03-2022, 11:58 AM #17
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Originally Posted by shadow247 View Post
This is jsut not true. I used an OEM filter, I put so much oil on the o-ring that it is running off, and I only hand tighten. And I had just come off a broken hand last time I changed the oil, so I could not have put it that tight.

I could not get it off last time, and my filter wrench doesn't fit for some reason, in fact, I'm pretty sure I got an AMAZON bootleg filter, gonna try again to get it off when I get back from vacation. I'm only at 5k on the filter, and 2500 miles on the oil, but I like to change it often after a hard wheeling trip.
Folks over tighten the filter often I've done that a couple of times my self.
Not sure why your filter won't come off but I ve changed the filter by hand from the top of the engine bay without any issues. I've used the Assenmacher Specialty Tools 3rd Gen filter wrench with a 1/4inch stubby flex head a few times. Don't use the the AST tool to tighten the filter.
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Old 03-03-2022, 01:13 PM #18
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Wrist curls will solve your too tight filter problems hit the gym more often. J/K

I'm in the camp of filter touches block + 1/4 turn maybe, been working for 50 yrs.
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Old 03-03-2022, 03:08 PM #19
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Originally Posted by 4Skinner98 View Post
I don't see it mentioned here; I remove the skid plates for oil change. Easier to get at the filter, and check out undercarriage. I also dip my finger in the drip pan to lube the oil filter gasket. HAND tighten. I may need filter strap on next oil change. I torque the drain plug. I've never used a crush washer.
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Change out that drain plug for a Fumoto valve and use a form-a-funnel under the filter and you can do a tool-free (nearly - need to pop the clips on the fender splash panel) oil change.



I do understand if you want to get under there for inspection though... But I have 30+ lbs of skidplates there. Not going to do that unless I have to.

-Charlie
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Old 03-03-2022, 04:22 PM #20
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Originally Posted by 4Skinner98 View Post
I don't see it mentioned here; I remove the skid plates for oil change. Easier to get at the filter, and check out undercarriage. I also dip my finger in the drip pan to lube the oil filter gasket. HAND tighten. I may need filter strap on next oil change. I torque the drain plug. I've never used a crush washer.
DB
Do others keep the skid plates on? I suppose if one was doing only oil and not the filter it could be done but when I take my filter off it pours oil everywhere. If I kept the skid on that'd be a mess that'll drip out for days. I also can't reach the filter location with the CS144 alternator. I think it's easier from below anyway though and makes cleanup easier with a rag as I'm already down there.
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Old 03-03-2022, 05:23 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Do others keep the skid plates on? I suppose if one was doing only oil and not the filter it could be done but when I take my filter off it pours oil everywhere. If I kept the skid on that'd be a mess that'll drip out for days. I also can't reach the filter location with the CS144 alternator. I think it's easier from below anyway though and makes cleanup easier with a rag as I'm already down there.
Without a Fumoto valve and a way to keep the oil from dripping on the skid plates, I would remove them. With the valve and a short hose to bring the dripping oil below the skid plate, you just need to manage the oil dripping out of the filter. See my pic above - and you can access the filter from the wheel well even with a larger alternator.

-Charlie
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Old 03-03-2022, 06:58 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Do others keep the skid plates on? I suppose if one was doing only oil and not the filter it could be done but when I take my filter off it pours oil everywhere. If I kept the skid on that'd be a mess that'll drip out for days. I also can't reach the filter location with the CS144 alternator. I think it's easier from below anyway though and makes cleanup easier with a rag as I'm already down there.


I stuff a oil spill pad or old cloths under the filter when taking it off so I don’t have to remove the skid plates.
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Old 03-03-2022, 07:06 PM #23
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I have pulled them every time. Never found a good way to keep everything clean without doing that
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:01 PM #24
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That moron was me! I did use the filter wrench to tighten a little and normally have without issue. Lesson learned!
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:42 PM #25
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That moron was me! I did use the filter wrench to tighten a little and normally have without issue. Lesson learned!
I vé been in that club as well so don't feel too bad.
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Old 03-04-2022, 05:06 AM #26
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I leave my skids off and change my filter through the fender.

I drain my oil and then slid it under the filter area and loosen the filter. After it’s mostly done dripping I remove it and flu the opening to the top and pull it through the access in the inner fender.


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Old 03-04-2022, 07:48 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
I leave my skids off and change my filter through the fender.

I drain my oil and then slid it under the filter area and loosen the filter. After it’s mostly done dripping I remove it and flu the opening to the top and pull it through the access in the inner fender.


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Same here - found it to take a little longer messing with the skid plates but worth it to avoid an oily mess on them. Slightly related but I also switched out all the skid plate bolts with much better ones from Ace - in the first week I owned it. Makes working with the plates a lot easier than dealing with the cheap bolts Toyota supplied
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