04-13-2022, 11:37 AM
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#16
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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Location: Charleston SC
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update. I am making progress, but slowly. I only get a few hours per week to work on the truck. I can't wait to get this project completed.
Got the driveshafts out. note the dirtier driveshafts on the right are the auto trans ones. They are indeed different lengths. The auto trans front one is slightly shorter, the front one is slightly longer.
this is one of the reasons i bought the entire parts truck... it would be so hard to source these.
Last edited by audiness; 04-13-2022 at 11:48 AM.
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04-13-2022, 11:38 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 1,195
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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The old Auto trans is out! this beast was much heavier and harder to get out than I thought. I used a harbor freight trans jack to safely lower this thing out. I don't know how people do this with just a regular jack. Another thing that was annoying was with the trans on the trans jack, it was too tall to just wheel it out from under the truck. so I had to walk the trans off the jack onto some boards, and then slide the trans out from under the truck.
My auto trans is for sale in the classifieds section. Only 159k miles and shifts perfectly. i have a video of it shifting before it took it out that I can send to the buyer if interested. PM me if interested
FS: 1999 or 2000 Automatic Transmission and Transfer case - Charleston,SC
Last edited by audiness; 04-28-2022 at 01:52 PM.
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04-13-2022, 04:33 PM
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#18
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiness
The old Auto trans is out! this beast was much heavier and harder to get out than I thought. I used a harbor freight trans jack to safely lower this thing out. I don't know how people do this with just a regular jack.
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Jesus. I hope people don't try it with just a regular jack!
At that point, you would separate the transfer case off first - but it would still be heavy/dangerous. I did it with a buddy, a lift and a trans jack...
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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04-13-2022, 06:41 PM
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#19
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John Virgin Islands
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Committed! Its a weird feeling to pull a perfectly good transmission out but I have never regretted putting a manual back in it. Also had a parts truck, I don't know how you do it without. I did mine with just a couple of regular jacks. If you pull off the transmission mount and bolt it too the jack then bolt it back to the transmission it keeps it from rolling side to side. Then another jack near the bell housing to hold it front to back and also allows you to fine tune the angle when putting it back. I also had to wrestle it off the jack to get it out from underneath
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1997 SR5 4x4
R150f swap E-locked 4.30 gears
Tundra 231 brakes LC 80 rims 285/75/16
2001 SR5 4x4
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04-16-2022, 02:37 PM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Socal
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Location: Socal
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Thanks for documenting this, I love threads like this.
I also have a question: looks like you removed everything along the firewall to install the clutch pedal. Waa it difficult to get all of that stuff out? Is the evap pressurized at all? I need to do the same but to get in there to clean, it's absolutely disgusting and caked with dirt.
Also, I'm surprised the factory wouldn't have stamped the location for the clutch pedal running through the firewall.
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04-18-2022, 04:19 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymalade
Thanks for documenting this, I love threads like this.
I also have a question: looks like you removed everything along the firewall to install the clutch pedal. Waa it difficult to get all of that stuff out? Is the evap pressurized at all? I need to do the same but to get in there to clean, it's absolutely disgusting and caked with dirt.
Also, I'm surprised the factory wouldn't have stamped the location for the clutch pedal running through the firewall.
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It was not difficult to get the EVAP box out, only 3 bolts holding it in. It is not pressurized. I wish the firewall was stamped to make the hole drilling easier, but it was not. At lease there was a cutout on the interior, where you can pull off a little tab in the sound deadening material.
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04-18-2022, 04:23 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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And now i know what it feels like to cut more holes in my truck. no going back now.
Also pictures are the two transmissions side by side. I spent a lot of time cleaning up the manual transmission, it did not come out of the donor truck looking like that. Another reason why my projects take so long!
Last edited by audiness; 04-18-2022 at 04:28 PM.
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04-22-2022, 11:05 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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made some more progress. Replaced the old clutch line, getting the Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate ready to install. I am hoping to get the transmission back onto the engine in the next couple of days.
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04-22-2022, 11:09 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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Did a new rear main seal and Pilot Bearing. Next to mount the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk!
Note my method for removing the old oil seal
Last edited by audiness; 04-28-2022 at 01:50 PM.
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04-28-2022, 01:49 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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made a little more progress, I decided to replace some of the oil cooler hoses on due to age, which is delaying the project a little. I have the flywheel on now, next is the clutch and pressure plate. I should be getting the new transmission on in the next couple of days
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04-28-2022, 05:39 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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What a cool swap! Fantastic job documenting what all goes into one of these swaps.
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05-04-2022, 08:02 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charleston SC
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install new OEM pilot bearing. check
install resurfaced flywheel. check
install clutch and pressure plate. check
install new OEM slave cylinder. check
install new OEM throw-out bearing. check
the next post will the trans going in!
Hopefully someone can confirm I got the throw-out bearing clips on correctly? there is no mention of this orientation in the service manual.
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05-21-2022, 12:30 AM
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#28
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Big update guys. Bad news for me, the build has stopped. I got everything done, transmission in, driveshafts back in, setup my OEM clutch lines, bled the system, etc. Got my manual wiring harness connected to my manual ECU. And i get a flashing Immobilizer light on the dash.
The donor truck. had. immobilizer.
so i am screwed, i now have to find a way to reflash my manual ECU. otherwise the project is totally screwed. Manual ECUs are unobtanium, and even if I found another one, how can I know if it has immobilizer or not?
i've almost lost interest at this point, i guess that's why I havent updated in a while, even though i have loads more pictures. i am trying to find a way to get motivated or move on
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05-21-2022, 08:32 AM
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#29
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiness
Big update guys. Bad news for me, the build has stopped. I got everything done, transmission in, driveshafts back in, setup my OEM clutch lines, bled the system, etc. Got my manual wiring harness connected to my manual ECU. And i get a flashing Immobilizer light on the dash.
The donor truck. had. immobilizer.
so i am screwed, i now have to find a way to reflash my manual ECU. otherwise the project is totally screwed. Manual ECUs are unobtanium, and even if I found another one, how can I know if it has immobilizer or not?
i've almost lost interest at this point, i guess that's why I havent updated in a while, even though i have loads more pictures. i am trying to find a way to get motivated or move on
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That's a bummer! Have you read through this thread yet? Keys and Remotes and Immobilizers, Oh My!, or... It might have the answer to your problems, or the OP might have an answer. He did a lot of research on the system.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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05-22-2022, 03:10 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vista, CA
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You are far from screwed - I had the exact same issue (you can read all about that here). The thread in the post above is your solution, ask
@ Brian.
if he can reflash your ECU for you. In the meantime, you can use your A/T ECU, it will work just fine, you'll just get a few Check Engine Lights about shift solenoids not responding. Let me know if you need any help.
Edit: And FYI, the M/T ECU is not your issue, the immobilizer (which came standard on all Limited trims starting in 1999) is your issue. No other ECU will work regardless if the vehicle it came from had an immobilizer or not.
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1999 4Runner Limited - 5VZ, 4wd, Factory E-Locker, Multi-Mode, 5-speed swap, Armored, Icons, 295s ( thread)
2001 Tacoma Xtracab - 3RZ, 4wd, 5-speed (Daily Driver)
Last edited by Team_Jake; 05-22-2022 at 03:15 PM.
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