Tackled this job this past weekend. It was pretty easy and it cured my squeaky clutch pedal

Parts used
Spring part number 90507-14030
Pedal shaft bushings (requires 2) 90386-13007


Parts cost less than $10 from my local Toyota dealer

I didn't photo-document the entire process but here's the basic approach

1. Remove evap cannister/box from engine bay after disconnecting all hoses and 2 electrical connectors
-this gives much better access to clutch MC

Break but don't remove the 2 MC bolts (12mm socket)

2. Disconnect retainer spring pin from pedal shaft
-this is through the pin the new spring will connect to the pedal shaft

Remove the plunger pin,.don't lose the spring washer on the pin

3. Remove upper pedal bracket bolt from under dash
(12mm socket)

4. Disconnect upper and lower clutch switch electrical connectors
-the upper one is a bugaboo

5. Remove clutch MC bolts and pull the MC back, clearing the studs

6. Remove the clutch pedal bracket
-twist down and to the right while pulling back
-be careful of the wiring behind the dash

Once the bracket assembly is out you'll need a 14mm socket and wrench to break the pedal pivot bolt.


The spring comes out pretty easily, you can use a channel lock to squeeze it and remove the ends from the bracket.

The bushing were actually still there but cracking


The spring had cut itself a channel which is where the squeekiness was happening


I cut the tab off as recommended by a few others to remove risk of interfering with the new, linear spring


The bushings on my pedal shaft were actually still good, but I replaced them anyway since I already bought them


I greased the pedal bushing shaft exterior and installed it back in the pedal shaft with the 2 new end bushings, then installed the pedal shaft back in the bracket, torqued to 25# ft, the point where the lock washer flattened out.

The reinstall back into the truck is basically the reverse of removal.

The spring clips onto an obvious loop under the dash and then attaches to the pedal plunger pin, just like the brake return spring on the brake pedal shaft.

A quick function test and I was in business, squeak-free.

Attached Images

 

Excellent!

I did that to my car's clutch, brake and 4R's brake (automatic). got bushings for the Hilux clutch and brake.

Recently, I noticed a rattling sound near rear door latch (driver side). Found out the door hinges are shot. The rear lower hinges are not available in the US, so ordered from Amayama . Bought uppers and all 4 front door hinges during the recent parts deal from toyota.

Clutch bushings and torsion spring delete is a must for all manual T4Rs! I think this was my very first mod.

I think I remember reading you said that in a previous thread. I renamed the title of this thread, accordingly

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I did the linear replacement early on too. I didn't know it at the time but my problem was actually the pedal rubbing against its own bracket mount. I never did fix that, I just put duct tape over the place where it was barely scraping and it has kept it from squeaking for over a year now.

The linear spring doesn't require any cutting, but the spring does come into contact with part of the mounting bracket, and it barely contacts the center spring holder (that you cut off) when fully pushed in. I've gotten away with leaving it as is. Slightly more side to side movement with the linear spring, but its a worthy tradeoff

Should have just done the spring mod. I was trying to do the bushing replacement without taking the pedal assembly out and working in the footwell. I tried for 40 minutes to get that last leg of the spring back in it's pivot with channel locks and vicegrips in that cramped footwell only to look down at the footwell and realize somewhere along the way I broke the brand new P bushing lol. Figured I would post this in a couple of threads to help someone else avoid this headache lol. I'm going to do the linear spring mod now....

Actually I drove it for a while just a bit ago and I might be sold on the complete spring delete. Cruise control works now and I like the very static feel throughout the range of the pedal. I also felt I had to really love on the clutch going into second because there's a bit of a jump with first being geared so low. Now it's smooth as butter. I think the way that spring and lever arm interacted was to create stiffness right at the engagement point of the clutch which imo just pushed me past that engagement point too quickly. I'm perfectly fine with feeling that engagement point without literally feeling it. Now that it's gone the spring kind of reminded me of the early 2000s mustang clutch which I absolutely detested when I used to change oil. That thing was no feel until you let off to the engagement point and then it would try and rocket the clutch back up. While this wasn't near as bad it still seems like Toyota wanted a similar concept with the clutch feel thus why they created that complicated setup that they patented.