For reference tonk has 268K miles

Starting mid february old Tonk started showing a new check engine light. This was discouraging because I hadnt made it 6 months without the dash looking like a christmas tree. I ran the code (p1135) and went to work figuring it was just the heater for the A/F sensor. Working 80 hour weeks I barely had time to feed myself much less work on/research how to fix my car so I kept on goin.

Fast forward to the second week of March. I was driving back from helping my buddy on his farm cruising at about 80. Suddenly steam starts pouring out from the hood of the car and the temp needle is just tickling the red. I roll up the windows and put on the A/C. This was a mistake. Apparently the A/C gets air from the engine bay. Who woulda thought. evaporated coolant started pouring from the vents like steam off a cattle iron. Tonk and I both coughed our way to the nearest exit where a sheetz was waiting for us.

Popped the hood and let her cool down for a bit while i got a gallon jug of water to pour in the radiator and find the leak. Turns out there was a 5 inch crack along the aluminum of the top of the radiator right beside the fill cap. As sheetz didn't carry the supplies i needed for this special occasion, I borrowed some duct tape and flex seal from my toolbox and almost stopped the leak with the goal of getting home, which should only take another half hour.

I pull out of the sheetz and don't get a half mile down the road before i see a tractor supply. I looked for one on my phone previously but it said the nearest one was a 15 minute drive. I miss steve jobs. I swing a left and hobble into the parking lot. Bought some brake clean, a wire brush and some JB waterweld. Got the tape and the flex seal off with the wire brush and my hands, used brake clean to get the residue off and prep the radiator for the waterweld. Three weeks later and the waterweld has held up remarkably well. The crack has spread to about 10 inches now and I ran out of jb weld so i figure I should probably get a new radiator.

On to the question i have now. Every time i cold start Tonk the engine shakes like a drunkard. It stops after a minute or two leading me to believe that the original code was an O2 sensor and not the A/F sensor heater but I'm not sure how to check. I'm also curious as to which radiator y'all think is the best? There are a couple threads on this but theyre almost a decade old.

Thanks fellas

Those unmapped farm supply stores that appear right when you need one are the best. Just want to say I feel you with the 80 hour week and no time thing, spent plenty of time sitting cross legged under my truck at 3am with blood pouring out of me and arms going numb hoping to get kids to school at 7. So no shame in ignoring the code like that.

The deep insides of the engine are might as well work by magic to me so you'll have to wait for the resident experts but it sounds like you cooked your engine pretty good guy. I'd probably think about getting the cheapest radiator you can find and maybe some stuff you can pour in the engine to keep Tonk going until the used car market cools off (if it ever does) and get another. Might keep going for years from stories I've read on here. Sorry can't help but good luck with it.

I use denso radiators from rock autos in mine. Glad to hear that held for you..

These engines hate heat. So I would verify it didn't warp or Crack a head.
The cast block can take it mostly no problem it's the aluminum head that gets you.
Being you were tickling H you maybe ok.

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Thats what I was looking for. And also hoping to never hear haha. I gotta take a looksie this weekend and see if my heads are okay. Bright side is that oil looks good and same with the coolant.

Cant imagine working that hard with a family. I always wonder how fellas do it but I guess they just do.

Thats a solid recommendation. I gotta check all my cylinder heads and see how ole tonk is doin after that stunt was pulled. Ive been looking for a new truck but i just cant justify getting rid of my 4runner. As long as it works I could never replace Tonk. Things taken me all over the place but it might be time for him to get on social security

Well if it makes you feel better. My one tickled H and it was ok. Just worth checking as your seeing issues.

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White smoke out the tail pipe? Pull the plugs and see if any of em have a white tint or cleaner then the others. loan a gas analizer or a compression tester from one of the Auto box stores to eliminate head gasket or a cracked head.
All of this will take time, so dropping it at a shop and let them diagnose could be a better option for your schedule.

Is it possible that a faulty O2 sensor is causing the engine to choke and shake like it does? That was my first thought but I hadnt considered that my engine turned into an overcooked roadhouse ribeye which is a valid concern. Thanks for your help so far.

No white smoke and the fluids look good. I was worried about a burned up head gasket but its not showing any symptoms. Would a warped head cause the shakey startups without the fluids mixing?
Ive got a bunch of free time this week to tear it down and do some research so I'll probably take care of it myself. Plus if is the end of the line for tonk it would be good experience for me to learn. Funnily enough I have a harder time working on my car than i do tractors and dozers

I should clarify I meant find the cheapest DENSO you can find, like Brillo said. Hopefully turns out fine.

Yeah that stuff made me finally realize what being a dad is actually about. Silently taking whatever shit gets piles on you and sacrificing spine discs and sleep without a word of complaint, or a getting a word of thanks Worth it tho.

warped heads and blown head gasket symptoms are fairly similar. Cleanin the maf might help the startup.

Sounds like a good place to start. Thank ya

I'm goin with the denso's haha. Bein a dads tough but one day soon i'll be in your shoes. Thanks for the car help and life advice. Might learn more on this forum than i did in college

The Oxygen sensor is one of two primary inputs for fuel and air. Having one that isn't working probably is like having a clogged jet on your carburetor, it's just not gonna run right until it's fixed. DENSO oxygen sensor for a 2002 is going to be pricey as it's an actual air/fuel ratio sensor which runs around $150.00. Without that part working correctly your fuel mileage is really going to start to tank and you'll notice it'll start to drink gas by the gallon. You'll end up paying $150 one way or the other, either for the part or the extra gas.

Do not use anything other than a OEM DENSO sensor. Doesn't have to be from Toyota but it does have to be a DENSO.

80 hour weeks happen. Actually more like 84-86 hours, plus the the hour commute…… but that’s in the past. I’ve done lots of them. I wouldn’t be where I am without those long weeks. Use it to get yourself out of the hole and a means to an end. You don’t necessarily want to live that way forever though. It’s hard on a person, and hard on the family. That first $4k paycheck was really a good feeling though. It costed me Xmas and New Years away from my kids though.

The shaking while cold is a bit odd. Could be compression related. Do a cold vs hot compression test with the throttle wide open and the plugs all out. Possibly fuel circuit to as the fueling logic is different from cold start to operating temp, but start with the compression test.

Do replace that radiator when you can though.

Good luck.