04-01-2022, 02:16 PM
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#16
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Hit your Alt with a hammer and that may get you bye until you can change the brushes.
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04-07-2022, 06:58 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Boston
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So I replaced the brushes, got the alternator back in, and noticed the light was still on... scratching my head I started checking voltage and noticed it was dropping quickly, worse than it had before. I thought maybe I finally shook something loose 100% and now the alternator was toast. I go to the only parts store near me that had a carquest alternator in stock which is about an hour round trip. I get back, start to take the OEM alternator back out and notice the belt has no tension! I look at my buddy confused because we had both checked the belt for tightness. I am able to get quite a bit more turns on the adjuster before finally reaching tension, and no more battery light! Going on 4 days now without the light coming on.
Than you guys for your help and figured I would post back on here to share my results in hope that it helps someone in the future.
I have attached a photo comparing my 310k mile brushes to a new set.
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2000 4Runner SR5, 5 Speed 286k. Bilsteinlifts Eibach/Toytec, RMR Matterhorn, 1552 tarmacHD, 33s, Daily Driver.
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04-07-2022, 09:11 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Glad to see it worked out.
Maybe this will give me incentive to yank the new brushes that reside in my glovebox and finally swap them out, at 205K I’m sure they’re needed.
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2002 SR5 Sport 4WD
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04-07-2022, 09:33 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Glad to see it worked out.
Maybe this will give me incentive to yank the new brushes that reside in my glovebox and finally swap them out, at 205K I’m sure they’re needed.
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It is a quick job! Was happy to be able to do it all from the engine bay and not have to pull my 4xinnovations skid off.
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2000 4Runner SR5, 5 Speed 286k. Bilsteinlifts Eibach/Toytec, RMR Matterhorn, 1552 tarmacHD, 33s, Daily Driver.
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04-07-2022, 09:40 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flooredrunner
It is a quick job! Was happy to be able to do it all from the engine bay and not have to pull my 4xinnovations skid off.
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The biggest pain in the butt for me is pulling the connector out of the back of the Alt.
I also have an amp gauge on my SR5.
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04-07-2022, 10:11 AM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
The biggest pain in the butt for me is pulling the connector out of the back of the Alt.
I also have an amp gauge on my SR5.
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I undid the connection after I had the alternator free from the brackets. Was 100% easier. I have done it both ways and while the alternator is attached to the engine, it took two people to pry it off lol
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04-07-2022, 10:33 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flooredrunner
I undid the connection after I had the alternator free from the brackets. Was 100% easier. I have done it both ways and while the alternator is attached to the engine, it took two people to pry it off lol
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Good to know as I’ve heard that’s the most difficult part of the job
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04-07-2022, 10:45 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Good to know as I’ve heard that’s the most difficult part of the job
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Yep. I have an offset jaw pliers that I use to grab and squeeze the locking tab.
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04-07-2022, 04:38 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
Yep. I have an offset jaw pliers that I use to grab and squeeze the locking tab.
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Always looking for excuse to buy new tools.
Got a picture or link for the offset pliers you use or just a basic pair of offset needle nose?
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04-07-2022, 09:43 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
You can test the voltage out put of the alternator by checking the battery voltage at idle which should be over 12.4 volts and then reving the engine to 1500 rpms, the voltage should jump up by at least 2 volts. A good charging range is between 13.4 to 14.8.
Also another option, is to take the alternator to a big box auto parts store and have them test it.
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In a correctly operating charging system, the batt voltage should not change with revs, right?
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04-07-2022, 10:13 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluton
In a correctly operating charging system, the batt voltage should not change with revs, right?
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That's correct.
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04-08-2022, 04:20 AM
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#27
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If you’re in gear with the brake on idling at 600rpm your Alt is only capable of pushing 40a. Any amp draw over that will cause the battery voltage to drop until the engine goes to a higher rpm.
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