Could you build this to fit a 3rd Gen 4Runner?

I've updated the 1st page a bit. I uploaded all my STEP models to GrabCAD and linked them. This also includes both the tube construction and plate construction arms between my original and second generation designs. Additionally there is the 3rd gen frame scan and the 1st gen 4runner arms also.

I still left the links to the pack and go files for SolidWorks of the plate arms for the 3rd gen, but now there shouldn't be any issues accessing the STEP files since they're on a public database.

Thanks again for sharing all this. I don't know if I'll ever go LT with my 4Runner, but it's nice to have a WIY option for 3rd gens.

Alright so I'm resurrecting this ancient post, but do you have any other info on this original LT setup of yours? All I have is an angle grinder, welder and a few hundred bucks lol. I just got done long traveling the rear and the front cannot keep up anymore. do you know how much travel this cycled and if you could have a good enough alignment to daily it? Thanks!

That cycled 14" with completely stock Tundra axles, though that required a custom shock tower since the arm was completely flat and didn't have the kink that my later designs incorporated. Getting it aligned was hard, but I think that was mainly due to most shops not wanting to touch it due to the heim adjustment on the UCA. Additionally due to the flat arms there was a lot more up travel compared to most long travel setups, so the wheel wells had to be completely deleted to fully utilize the travel. My later designs had a lot more droop available (the kink in the lower helps the uniball from maxing out as early in droop).

There are CAD files on the first page (ones labeled as tube construction). As with all the CAD files, I would use them for reference and then do your own measuring and verify/conclude your geometry.

I think you can easily make a long travel kit with tube, I never had any issues with that configuration and it got absolutely railed on. The hardest part (especially if you can't have your vehicle down for very long) is measuring everything and designing it. Keeping the lower adjustment cams functional, and having heims on the uppers all but guarantees you'll be able to get the alignment correct since you have massive adjustment potential then. Ideally you would measure the arms on the vehicle as best as possible, design what you think it should be like (that doesn't have to be in CAD, long hand is just fine). And then tack up what you want, install it on one side of the vehicle and cycle it, and figure out any changes you need to do and then you can reinstall the stock components and then iterate and fix anything.

As I said in one of my posts, the plate construction arms my friend and I built in about 3 days. Granted I had a lot of experience already, but you only need the vehicle to be down for a day or two at a time so you can pull the measurements you need and test fit things if you're smart about it. Food for thought. A welder and a grinder will go a long ways, the rest of it is being creative and thinking through the problem, and if you have access to CAD then the files on the first page can give you some guidance as well.

Thanks a ton for the info and quick response! I'll definitely be taking a look at those files when I have access to a computer that has it on there. Your original seemed to be the easiest to just weld up and required the least amount of cutting. I do have a buddy with access to a plasma cutter, but that costs money lol. I know I'm getting into an area that just requires money, but hopefully with these designs it will allow me to save money where I can.

Yea that style is exactly what you want. And you can incorporate geometry like the kinked lower easily. I had the exact same tools at my disposal when I made that design, so I completely understand the position you're in. And if you look at stuff like All Pro or even some Total Chaos kits, they are of a similar construction where it's just some tubing. I went with square tubing because working with round tubing is comparatively harder, square you just need a cut off wheel or miter saw and all your cuts and "bends" are easy.

Hey guys I know this thread is old. But I've stumbled upon your 3.5 kit on Grab cad just foolin around. I just recently acquired my first Toyota. It's a 2000 Tacoma 2wd 5 lug. Its bone stock and I've been tossing around the idea of throwing a lift spindle on it to get a bigger tire and designing my own upper control arm to correct ball joint angle but wanted to go uniball instead. My question here is, I've been told that the 6 lug and 5 lugs have different frames and I saw that you mentioned your frame scan could potentially be for 1st gen Tacoma's. I'm assuming it's going to be a different frame than what I have. If so, do you have any idea what the differences are? I'm wondering if the control arm widths are the same. At first glance my stock suspension vs the 4wd models is the spindle height. I really haven't gotten into measuring or looking at what I've got yet. I want to build a tubular stock width upper and lower control arm with a lift spindle utilizing a 6-8" coil over.

Thanks

I don't know enough to say what the differences to a 2WD Tacoma are. A 2WD 4runner I'm pretty sure is identical to a 4WD 4runner, but the 2WD 4runner also retains 6 lug I'm pretty sure which would indicate the 2WD Tacoma has a bit more differences going on. I would measure the frame scan and your frame and see if a couple points line up, and if they do you're golden there. Then you could measure your stock components. Tacoma World would probably be a better place to ask the more generic question of 2WD vs 4WD frame/suspension differences. Though maybe someone will chime in here. Sorry for the lack of insight and good luck!

No worries! I appreciate the response. I'll get in there and take some measurements to reference against your scan... thanks dude!

Just found this thread while looking for inner tiered to rack thread pitch and want to thank you I should be cutting this out on the laser at work also plan on tweaking it to utilize the use of our press brake.