[brillo_76]

Could it just be from changing your filter? If you thinking their maybe a leak on the pan there.. Get yourself a can or 2 of brake cleaner and clean that area very good so you can verify if there is a leak there on not.. To me it looks like oil coming from filter changes. :-)

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Could it just be from changing your filter? If you thinking their maybe a leak on the pan there.. Get yourself a can or 2 of brake cleaner and clean that area very good so you can verify if there is a leak there on not.. To me it looks like oil coming from filter changes. :-)

That’s what I’m honestly thinking at this point, especially since there isn’t any oil on the pan itself near the filter. That would make the most sense to me. I also switched to a high mileage motor oil to see if I get any different/better/worse results. I’ve never used high mileage stuff before and I don’t know if it actually works in terms of swelling old seals and stuff, but we’ll see how it does over the next few months.

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

That’s what I’m honestly thinking at this point, especially since there isn’t any oil on the pan itself near the filter. That would make the most sense to me. I also switched to a high mileage motor oil to see if I get any different/better/worse results. I’ve never used high mileage stuff before and I don’t know if it actually works in terms of swelling old seals and stuff, but we’ll see how it does over the next few months.

I never noticed any difference on the high mile oil... The only thing I ever noticed was dino to synthetic. If the seals leak on standard oil.. They leak a pile worse on synthetic. :/

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I never noticed any difference on the high mile oil... The only thing I ever noticed was dino to synthetic. If the seals leak on standard oil.. They leak a pile worse on synthetic. :/

I may not see a difference with it, which isn’t such a bad thing. Even Blackstone emailed me stating that in testing, there were no noticeable differences. So maybe it’s marketing hype, who knows. I’ve never ran conventional oil in my rig so I don’t know if I’d have any different experiences with it. I did just crawl beneath it and tidied everything up with degreaser and brake parts cleaner. So now I can be absolutely sure if there’s a leak or not!

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

I may not see a difference with it, which isn’t such a bad thing. Even Blackstone emailed me stating that in testing, there were no noticeable differences. So maybe it’s marketing hype, who knows. I’ve never ran conventional oil in my rig so I don’t know if I’d have any different experiences with it. I did just crawl beneath it and tidied everything up with degreaser and brake parts cleaner. So now I can be absolutely sure if there’s a leak or not!

Conventional oil not used as much. You have to watch though if they say on the jug. Synthetic blend doesn't mean 50/50. There isn't a standard on the %.

Almost all my vehicles run full synthetic. Except for my classics and tetanus 1.. Well Tetanus 1 (1998 sr5 4wd) runs full synthetic but I bump it to 10w-30 and add a quart of locus only because the engine needs resealed and if I don't. I loose too much oil in 5k miles..:/

If seals are really bad on an engine. You can can bump one grade up and add locus.. However, its better to just replace the seals then you can run the full synthetic and 5W-30 without any issues.. :-) I just didnt get to this one yet to engine reseal it.

[JoeT4R]

Long, long overdue, I know...
Last night I extended my A/C drain by installing some leftover transmission cooler hose and a small hose clamp to secure it to the drain arm. Works great and didn't fly off during my drive in to work this morning. Will be searching for methods to secure the hose to prevent it from flopping around and potentially flying off while driving down the road. I paid nothing to do this mod since I had the resources lying around in my tool boxes, so that's a big plus. Doesn't have to be pretty, as long as it works and works properly.

Date: 7/2/22
Mileage: Unknown

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Will be searching for methods to secure the hose to prevent it from flopping around and potentially flying off while driving down the road.

I just used a zip tie

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3692144-post33083.html

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

I just used a zip tie

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3692144-post33083.html

I really like how you pulled it back and secured it, rather than just letting it dangle from the drain! Looks great and I plan to do that tonight. I'm sure that decreases the amount of stress of the drain arm, too. Thanks dude.

[octanejunkie]

I used 3/8" ID vinyl hose, no clamp, and secured it to the mounting boss for the sway bar with a zip tie. I cut it 2" below the bottom of the frame. Pretty basic mod to direct the AC run off away from rusty bits.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[JoeT4R]

Passed the Virginia Vehicle Emissions Inspection today. Stats posted below.
Date: 7/13/22
Mileage: 315,291

[JoeT4R]

As I love to go down the rabbit hole on a regular basis when it comes to oil, I finally confirmed what I had hoped to be true. SuperTech Full Synthetic High Mileage IS in fact produced by Warren Distribution. After lots of digging, I was able to type in the barcode from the oil container on this website: Wercs UPC/Barcode - Powered By The Wercs

It shows data sheets and gives pretty good info about products that you can purchase from the almighty Wally World. I had recently been reading that SuperTech was produced by different manufacturers depending on the region where you live. But that seems to be false. The link to the data sheet below reflects that it is in fact made by Warren Distribution. For anyone who cares or wants to know, the barcode on my oil container is 071621685761.

The link below shows a detailed report.
http://msds.walmartstores.com/client...&subformat=NAM

[JoeT4R]

Well, this happened today. A few years ago (2017) my truck was involved in a hit and run where the offender totaled my truck. This included the rear driver side fender flares, front driver door and front fender and fender flares. So I gathered the needed parts and got it fixed by an independent business/person. While they did a good job of painting the newly gathered parts, it seems as though when they reattached the rear driver door flare, they didn't install it the way it came from the factory. So today it just ripped right off without any warning or signs of weakness. Pretty bummed about that. Now begins the process of fixing those small rust spots on the door and then reattaching the flare to the door.

[JoeT4R]

As of July 23rd, 2022

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Well, this happened today. A few years ago (2017) my truck was involved in a hit and run where the offender totaled my truck. This included the rear driver side fender flares, front driver door and front fender and fender flares. So I gathered the needed parts and got it fixed by an independent business/person. While they did a good job of painting the newly gathered parts, it seems as though when they reattached the rear driver door flare, they didn't install it the way it came from the factory. So today it just ripped right off without any warning or signs of weakness. Pretty bummed about that. Now begins the process of fixing those small rust spots on the door and then reattaching the flare to the door.

If that was from 2017 around here. You entire door section would have been rusted off. That looks fairly easy to fix and you can even hide your work behind the fender flare..

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[JoeT4R]

Yesterday I took the 4Runner through one of those drive through car washes. Afterwards I went to park so I could take some photos of how it looked. Turns out that my passenger side headlight was burned out. Back in February of this year I installed some cheap Hella bulbs purchased off of Amazon and they were less than $10. So for the Hellas to only last 5 months, I can't be too mad I suppose. Given that I had to drive in the dark this morning, it was pretty urgent, so I went to the wonderful Wally World where I purchased some Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. They were $45.97 pre tax. Went back out to the parking lot and swapped them in before I even left.

They produce a noticeably "whiter" light than the Hellas, but overall they look really good. I've ran LED's in the past and I'm done with them, they're too cheap, burn out quickly and they aren't even made for my housings. Plus I think the halogens look good on older rigs. Driving into work this morning I noticed that these have a much wider beam spread and definitely illuminate the road ahead quite nicely. For $45 I think these were a good investment and would definitely recommend them. Hopefully they last much longer than 5 months!

Date: 7/28/22
Mileage: Unknown