Originally Posted by jhuerta22

I had an issue with intermittent misfires. Same codes and everything. It was an injector that would get stuck after the truck warmed up. Would run fine cold, but as soon as I shut it off it'd throw a code. It's not too bad of a job to do and a good used one is fairly cheap. I have 5 if you can't find one.

Originally Posted by spartacus

Most likely injector number 5. Have to take the plenum off to test number 5 but should be 13.8 ohms. at 68 degrees, ohms could be higher due to temp variations.

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

The procedure itself doesn't exist for 3rd gens (or at least I have not been able to find it on techstream). The learned values reset after either disconnecting the battery or removing the ecu fuse and then will start relearning as you drive it.

Originally Posted by TW44LR

Gotcha I’ll try to test it this weekend. If it tests bad should I go ahead and replace them all or just the one? Any good sources on where to get them?


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Originally Posted by TW44LR

Gotcha I’ll try to test it this weekend. If it tests bad should I go ahead and replace them all or just the one? Any good sources on where to get them?


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Originally Posted by Jakeepoo3

There must be a procedure to manually reset it. Like my 94 xj it's a key and headlight off/on sequence. When you add higher performance goodies it's better to relearn from scratch and much quicker. I have awesome results doing this. I think I actually did this in my 2010 runner with a key and e brake sequence after servicing all PCM inputs now that I think back.. you can loan me your techstream though ��

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Here's a 2000 FSM: Update your browser to use Google Drive, Docs, Sheets, Sites, Slides, and Forms - Google Drive Help No where in there does it have a procedure for resetting fuel trims or learned engine values. The learned engine values clear when the ECM loses power so either pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery clears it.

Originally Posted by Jakeepoo3

That has never worked for the 5th, it evens says that in the manual at least. I tried that for a couple days and it still didn't reset. I know my fsm doesn't mention the manual reset either. I imagine you'd have to think beyond a manual. How much y'all pay your managers, you hiring? Just kidding luckers! Here's is the manual procedure I used. Worked like yay 😁 it should be the same procedure for before 2000 to present. Only thing I do different than this describes is relearn park through 1 in 2wd, 4lo and 4hi following the procedure this explains. The difference was large and easily noticed right away. Then I was seeing way better gas mileage soon afterwards. Don't tell your associates haha.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+4runner+manual+sequence+pcm+reset&client=ms-android-verizon&sxsrf=ALiCzsY3-4QXAP_7oabKTHl3HdGiZuZNGw%3A1652735086132&ei=bryCYuPNB8bcqtsP9fmksAY&oq=2010+4runner+manual+sequence+pcm+reset&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BwgjELADECc 6BwgAEEcQsAM6BwgjELACECc6BQgAEKIEOgQIHhAKSgQIQRgAU OwlWNleYKpiaAFwAXgAgAHEAYgBnguSAQM1LjiYAQCgAQHIAQn AAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

Originally Posted by 4Reak Show

Just go back to basics:

Fuel +
Air +
Compression +
Spark +
All occuring at the proper time =
Normal running engine.

Sounds like you did spark-nope.
Air is unlikely an issue-nope.
Timing (both valve timing and spark timing) is probably not it since it’s one cylinder mostly and generally one major failure would affect more than one cylinder-nope.
So now you’re down to compression and fuel.

Compression testers are cheap, may even be rentable. I doubt it’s a compression issue since it’s intermittent and generally a compression issue is constant. But you could try.

That leaves fuel. This is further broken down into supply and delivery.
Unlikely a supply problem (pump, filter, bad gas, low pressure etc) since, again, it’s a single cylinder and generally an overall supply issue would affect more than one.

So now it’s down to delivery: injector, computer, wiring in between. You could install a little light bulb (special version is called a noid light) piggy-backed onto the wires of the suspected injector and look for a flashing bulb WHILE THE MISFIRE OCCURS. This would rule out the computer and harness. You want to see a flashing light (which is a command to fire the injector) WHILE MISFIRING. Means the injector is no good. Now, a non flashing light would lean towards a harness or computer issue.

It’s probably the injector. Had a similar issue back in 2020. Went through all the same steps since I already have all the tools. It’s about the same amount of time to do one injector vs all. All injectors are same age, same amount of cycles. So I’d say do them all if you settle on injectors.

I went through 5-0 motorsports. Small deposit to return old injectors. They’re reman’d OEM.

Originally Posted by 3bears

if you decide to go rebuilt or new injectors....motorwest...its even who timmy uses. I have used 2 set of theirs, about to order another set , all different rigs of course.

Originally Posted by spartacus

It's up to you. I have had a misfire and replaced injector 3 with oem and have added close to 100k miles without any issues.

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Oh. If the injector is plugged you probably not get it unplugged that quickly. I can't say if it helps. I myself just run some injector cleaner a few tanks a year on all my rigs. So far I haven't has to change injectors.
Maybe it's just been luck for 30 years. Who really knows.

If everything is checking out. It's very possible your one injector is intermittently failing on you.

Fuel pressure check is shown how to do in the factory service manual.

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Originally Posted by TW44LR

Gotcha I’ll try to test it this weekend. If it tests bad should I go ahead and replace them all or just the one? Any good sources on where to get them?


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