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Old 06-05-2022, 01:16 PM #16
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Nice progress

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Originally Posted by majdomo View Post

The rear shock mount was designed by a masochist, which is probably why these were never changed. The washers were rusted out flakes of their former selves, and I had to bathe the top nut in PB to get it to finally, thankfully, move on each side. I mopped up the pool of PB before getting up there with the 14mm, and used a pipe wrench to keep the top half of the old shock from turning. There’s just no room to get good torque on that nut, but made it work eventually.

I just bend the crap out of the rear shocks, back and forth, repeatedly, until the upper shaft snapped. I got lucky, there were holes in the floor board covered by gummy tape right above the shock nuts; i tightened the nuts from the cargo area.

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Old 06-05-2022, 09:58 PM #17
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Shortened garage session today installing steering rack bushings. That went super smooth compared to yesterday’s cage match against the shocks. New TRW poly bushes installed, along with junkyard pulled sway brackets. I did manage to bust a fastener on the passenger side, which was all rusted out, but I had another one from the junkyard ready to go anticipating this. Hooray for CA junkyard trucks!

This cleaned up most of my steering slop and steering wheel shaking at speed, as the passenger side bushing was completely hosed. The driver and center bushes seemed ok, but they are just rubber and pliable.

It seems like the passenger side rust on the sway bracket / bolt was mainly due to the A/C condenser outlet, which drips right on top of that bracket. I’ll need to take a look and see if there’s maybe a drain hose missing from an outlet, that would otherwise guide condensation away from the frame.

I also got a nice look at my sway bushings, which are shot. I’ll order those up and install once the end links show up next week.

Tired but excited, next few weekends are busy with lots of social engagements, glad I was able to get this work out of the way.

Last edited by majdomo; 06-05-2022 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 06-05-2022, 10:13 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
Nice progress



I just bend the crap out of the rear shocks, back and forth, repeatedly, until the upper shaft snapped. I got lucky, there were holes in the floor board covered by gummy tape right above the shock nuts; i tightened the nuts from the cargo area.

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I hadn’t thought of that, but I was about 5 minutes away from busting out that Dremel again and hacking into the upper shaft. That IS lucky to have those holes already cut. No idea why Mr. T didn’t design it that way from the outset, seems like that would have made service way easier and more cost-effective.

Totally different trucks, not IFS, but this job on the FZJ80 and the FJ40 took about an hour. Yesterday was a ball-busting 8 hours on the concrete, the last 2 in the dark. BUT, driving down to OC and back today was awesome, just so much more responsive.
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Old 06-05-2022, 11:30 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majdomo View Post
It seems like the passenger side rust on the sway bracket / bolt was mainly due to the A/C condenser outlet, which drips right on top of that bracket. I’ll need to take a look and see if there’s maybe a drain hose missing from an outlet, that would otherwise guide condensation away from the frame.
I attached a 3/8 ID hose to the outlet of the AC drain and routed along the firewall, down to below the frame by around 3" - drains directly to the ground

I have a thread on this "mod" which is really just a common sense completion of what Toyota engineers probably want to do

Extended AC Drain mod
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Last edited by octanejunkie; 06-05-2022 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 06-05-2022, 11:51 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
I attached a 3/8 ID hose to the outlet of the AC drain and routed along the firewall, down to below the frame by around 3" - drains directly to the ground

I have a thread on this "mod" which is really just a common sense completion of what Toyota engineers probably want to do

Extended AC Drain mod
Thanks for the link, adding this to the list. Seems silly, but the amount of rust on that bracket and under the passenger side steering rack bushing was enough to put this on anyone’s 3rd gen baseline list.
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Old 06-13-2022, 10:44 PM #21
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Original seat with the new bottom from the junkyard:



And the junkyard seat with my original bottom. 4 bolts and some trim. Way easier than ordering from Japan.




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Old 06-13-2022, 10:55 PM #22
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Looks like I think moon mist....

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Old 06-14-2022, 12:11 AM #23
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Looks like I think moon mist....

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Yep, but Toyota insists on calling it “gray” or “moon mist” or… just to make it fun and interesting


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Old 06-14-2022, 09:39 AM #24
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Frank is looking good.. Glad to see progress on your thread. :-)
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Old 06-19-2022, 09:04 PM #25
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Tundra big brake upgrade, finally. This took care of more of my shaky steering wheel at speed, along with getting my sh*tty tires rebalanced. The tech said that each one was off by more than a gram, yowza.



Doesn’t look half bad, they do clear the stock 16” steel wheels by just a few mm. I can’t upload the photo though, you’ll just have to take my word for it that they clear…

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Old 06-19-2022, 09:08 PM #26
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So you used the 199mm wide rotor and the smaller caliper. Or did you use the 231mn with the largest tundra caliper?

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Old 06-19-2022, 09:22 PM #27
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This is the 231mm 13WL under stock steel wheels. When I was test fitting them, the wheel was binding up on the inner part of the outer piston housings, nearest the hub. It was as if I needed a 5mm spacer… what could that be… what about the damn brake rotor? Buttoned up with relief, had my son help out with bleeding the brakes. Original brake fluid came out absolutely black. Same with the clutch fluid (which is just DOT 3 brake fluid). Changed that out as well.

Did not get to the oil change today, it’s Father’s Day after all.

EDIT: also got to make a pit stop at a junkyard on the way out to our vacation in the desert earlier in the week. You know you have a keeper when she’s ok with hanging out at a Starbucks in the middle of nowhere with the kiddos on the way to vacation while you “just run in for a minute” to see if you can score some parts cheap.

Bummer that the parts (seat bottom) was trashed…

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Old 06-19-2022, 09:49 PM #28
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Ah they fit in with 16 inch steel rims ok.... The larger ones 231 mm 13WL will not fit 16 inch aluminum's.. I found out the 01 and 02 16 inch aluminum rims have more clearance then the older versions. The 199mm wide smaller tundra calipers will fit the aluminum 16 rims though.. So I was curious how you got the larger ones to fit. The answer is steel vs aluminum is how.. Good to know... Frank is moving along and looking good. :-)
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Old 06-19-2022, 11:14 PM #29
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They fit, but only just, literally a couple mm or so. On my prior 01 4Runner, they also fit nicely but close under the stock 16" aluminum wheels. If I recall it was super close to the inside of the wheel, so no stick-em wheel weights to balance as they'd hit the caliper if not placed just so.
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Old 06-20-2022, 09:52 AM #30
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They fit, but only just, literally a couple mm or so. On my prior 01 4Runner, they also fit nicely but close under the stock 16" aluminum wheels. If I recall it was super close to the inside of the wheel, so no stick-em wheel weights to balance as they'd hit the caliper if not placed just so.
Interesting. As I know the last 2 years are slightly different. As my 01 sport rims fit my 09 Tocuma. While my 97 98 aluminum rims will not clear the tocuma calipers.. I found this out the hard way.. ;)

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