So after a few more bleeds and troubleshooting I finally gave in and adjusted the rear brakes even more. The one side was already dragging so I adjusted it a bit more and then adjusted the other side to what felt like roughly similar and there you go. Completely fixed. No idea why the master swap fixed it. Hardest problems always turn out to be the simplest solutions I guess. I知 going to replace both wheel cylinders and redo the brakes in the back just to be safe even though they adjusted ok.

I don稚 understand why that fixed it because both rear brakes were dragging already but I値l take what I can get


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When you rebuild your rear brakes I found it helpful to use the parking brake a couple times once I thought I had the shoes adjusted correctly just to make sure the shoes were evenly centered and not off to one side causing premature drag on one side and a large gap on the other. While I'm thinking of it, you have 1 inch wheel cylinders since you have a Limited. I ordered the 15/16 inch ones originally when I rebuilt my old runner's rear brakes.

Great news OP. Bleeding and rear adjustment got it fixed.

Still not sure how the rear brakes could have done all that. One drum took a hammer and pry bar to come off. The other side wasn稚 as tight but was still dragging. I don稚 see how that could have possibly been an issue. My girlfriends father is a Mercedes master tech of 25 years. He took one look at the back and he even said they were adjusted properly so I知 left scratching my head at this one. But alls well that ends well I guess


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Hard to tell, a lot of extra details in the OP, but I think you may have had brake fatigue from limited rear braking. You learned this by now, but the drums are hard to get off no matter how little they're adjusted.

If it happens again in a few hundred miles, could be an adjustment issue --> frozen bell crank, parking brake malfunction, siezed or broken cable pivot. Maybe some other broken stuff in there. I haven't heard anyone reporting a stuck piston on drum brakes, but who knows, that could happen. You said yours only moved 1/8 of an inch, but we need context.

well glad you got it,
if your gonna replace wheel cylinders, get the bigger ones...dont know if it makes much difference... Supposedly there was a 15/16 bore and a 1 inch bore. When I did mine I made sure to order the 1 inch bore

What I知 still trying to understand is why didn稚 the front brakes take up the slack from the rear? I don稚 really have much knowledge on braking systems but I don稚 get how one shoe slightly out of adjustment could cause the front 2 calipers both of which have new pads and rotors to basically produce no braking power. I understand that they were fatigued but the tundra front brakes should be more than enough to stop the car by themselves IMO. Am I wrong in assuming this?


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No or little rear brakes overheats the front ones, any brakes that are too hot by design loose lots of braking ability, that is why your big ol' tundra fronts are not of much value alone.

Maybe I missed it. Which size of tundra calipers did you go with? I think you had a combination of things going on.

1] air in the brake lines somewhere

2] the rear breaks don't take much movement to effect pedal travel. So one adjusted good and the other bad would effect the pedal height.


3] The tundra calipers come in 2 sizes. The wide 199mm size and the larger 231 mm size. The 199 mm is the same diameter rotor as stock. Just accepts a lot wider rotor and stock rims fit.

The 231 mm caliper is larger and the stock rims don't fit. Lots of members have reported soft brake pedal after doing this upgrade because the there is a difference in the caliper itself besides being wider.

4] it's best to get your emergency brake cable and bell cranks in good working order as you can use your emergency brake cable to keep your rear brake shoes well adjusted.

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