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Old 06-11-2022, 11:43 PM #16
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If you are up for a challenge and want to install a JDM motor (a lot of parts need to swap over) Venus Import in southern Sacramento is where I got mine. Top notch customer service and did the compression check right in front of me (220 PSI on all cylinders).

It'd be best to call them as their 5VZ-FE's sell out almost immediately so aren't listed on the website. Welcome to Venus Imports | JDM Engines & Parts at the BEST prices
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Old 06-12-2022, 08:17 AM #17
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Of all the members that replied to my oil pressure question
I didn't see a question in your oil pump post just truth. If not a hp pump at least a new one,
the hp pump would compensate for clearences loosening up with normal wear.
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Old 06-12-2022, 10:36 AM #18
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I didn't see a question in your oil pump post just truth. If not a hp pump at least a new one,
the hp pump would compensate for clearences loosening up with normal wear.

I bought an Asin pump and my starter doesnít spin it fast enough to make the oil pressure light go out.

I did completely clean and flush the oil cooler. About a second after engine run the light goes out.


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Old 06-12-2022, 01:54 PM #19
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Venus Import in southern Sacramento is where I got mine. Top notch customer service and did the compression check right in front of me (220 PSI on all cylinders).
I'd do it in a minute with a place like that just down the road, CH to Sac what 20 mi.
CA has the best and most JDM places, in the SE forget it.
I'm going to call Venus for the hell of it to hear shipping cost for 1800 mi in these times bet it same as cost of engine Ha.
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Old 06-12-2022, 02:32 PM #20
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
I bought an Asin pump and my starter doesnít spin it fast enough to make the oil pressure light go out.

I did completely clean and flush the oil cooler. About a second after engine run the light goes out.
Doing a apples to apples that's how mine works @224k mi,
key at on posiition light on, engine fires up 1-3 sec hold in Ign position light goes out.

Are you cranking longer than that ?

I've cleaned oil cooler new hoses o-rings, did pull oil pressure sending unit flush with cleaner only difference.
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Old 10-15-2022, 02:01 PM #21
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Bumping up my thread, have a (hopefully) good engine on hand, and am putting together a game plan for the engine refresh, removal of the old block and re-installation.

I'm studying the FSM and printing out the relevant sections for the work, and I need to pickup a can of Permatex Great Stuff for the Oil Pan and VCG.

Here's the gameplan with the parts I have separated by "task"

Does this look more or less correct? I just want to avoid putting something on and then taking it off again.
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Old 10-15-2022, 02:37 PM #22
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Originally Posted by 96RedRunner View Post
Doing a apples to apples that's how mine works @224k mi,
key at on posiition light on, engine fires up 1-3 sec hold in Ign position light goes out.

Are you cranking longer than that ?

I've cleaned oil cooler new hoses o-rings, did pull oil pressure sending unit flush with cleaner only difference.

I can crank for ten sec with fuel pump relay removed and the low oil pressure light never turns off.

But yea, around 1 sec after engine starts the oil light goes out.


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Old 10-15-2022, 08:05 PM #23
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Originally Posted by CoCoCo4Runner View Post
Bumping up my thread, have a (hopefully) good engine on hand, and am putting together a game plan for the engine refresh, removal of the old block and re-installation.

I'm studying the FSM and printing out the relevant sections for the work, and I need to pickup a can of Permatex Great Stuff for the Oil Pan and VCG.

Here's the gameplan with the parts I have separated by "task"

Does this look more or less correct? I just want to avoid putting something on and then taking it off again.
A couple of thoughts that might same some time and some headache.

The oil cooler is almost foolproof, it would be best to leave that one alone as it never leaks. Same goes with the oil pickup tube gasket, it's one of those things that doesn't leak and even if it does it doesn't affect anything. I realize you'll have the oil pan dropped so I suppose you can do it but not really needed.

Now here is where some people disagree and it's on a need-only basis. The crankshaft and camshaft seals. Obviously, if they are leaking they need to be replaced however the camshaft seals are difficult to get in correctly without damaging either the seal or the surface. Have I seen one that's leaked before? Yes. Have I seen one that's been perfectly fine and then when 'fixed' with a new seal it then started leaking where it hadn't before? Yes. I have replace my seals but it was when I had the camshafts out of the engine, which you are not planning on doing. It's a fair amount of work to remove them.

The crankshaft seal is another one of those that might be best left alone but it's much harder to tell if this one is leaking because the valve covers and oil pan tend to leak down to the same spot. I have never replaced a crankshaft seal for the same reasons mentioned above for the camshaft seal. It also necessitates removing of the crankshaft pulley and the bolt is supposedly non-reusable and I didn't see one on your parts list.

The rest look right on point. I'm assuming you'll also be replacing any vacuum hoses on a need basis as you go. You may want to look into replacing the oil cooler coolant hose if yours is so equipped. If you have one your water pump will have an extra coolant passage. This hose does tend to leak from time to time as it breaks down from the coolant.
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