Hello, I'm finally getting around to swapping my 3rd gen and have sourced a replacement motor. It's lower miles, but while it's out I'd like to have it squeaky clean and as renewed as possible.
Plus some additional parts from a local dealer (see image)
Is there anything else I'm missing? I don't want to mess with the internals, headgasket should be fine (assuming it passes a leakdown test). I also have new LBJ's but that is not strictly engine related.
Looks like you've got most of it covered. I'd recommend adding an OEM thermostat and heater core water valve to the list. Maybe an IAC gasket if you haven't cleaned the IAC in a while.
EDIT: That's the wrong part number for the PCV. I only checked the PCV part number because it looked weird to me. I didn't check any other part numbers.
Might be worth rebuilding the starter and throwing new brushes in the alternator. Pretty cheap parts relatively easy to get to any time but would be really easy to get to with the engine out. Might also be worth re sealing the engine oil pan while it’s out. Last thing I can think of is rear main seal.
Might be worth rebuilding the starter and throwing new brushes in the alternator. Pretty cheap parts relatively easy to get to any time but would be really easy to get to with the engine out. Might also be worth re sealing the engine oil pan while it’s out. Last thing I can think of is rear main seal.
Yep on the starter. I rebuilt mine put it in the engine bay and within 6 months I was pulling the starter for contacts.
Spend the extra money on the high volume oil pump. This engines oil pressure at idle is way low compared to what I’m use too.
Well, it’s all for naught. The motor I picked up has some funky exhaust valve issues. The wrecking yard I got the motor from recommended I put some oil on the valves and try it again, so I popped off the valve covers and added oil, spun the motor and it made no difference.
I paid too much for an engine with valve issues, so back to them it goes. Shame because the other cylinders were pretty tight. I’m sure this would run in my truck but I doubt it would run particularly well.
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,167
Real Name: 3 Bears
used engines are a crap shoot. hopefully you can trade that one back for a better. glad you checked b4 putting it in. some yards have a print out of compression etc on the used engines that they do b4 pulling. That is if you can trust that. In some of their defense...of even a good wrecker...they really dont know...and a dry compression test can fool you and them. I totaled a nice yota...that I knew had a slightly leaking head gasket from an over heated engine...blew a radiator hose in the middle of bum frick no place...( had just started to leak shown by a leak down and radiator dye test) and I bet the limited test that the wreckers throw at it would not show.
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
used engines are a crap shoot. hopefully you can trade that one back for a better. glad you checked b4 putting it in. some yards have a print out of compression etc on the used engines that they do b4 pulling. That is if you can trust that. In some of their defense...of even a good wrecker...they really dont know...and a dry compression test can fool you and them. I totaled a nice yota...that I knew had a slightly leaking head gasket from an over heated engine...blew a radiator hose in the middle of bum frick no place...( had just started to leak shown by a leak down and radiator dye test) and I bet the limited test that the wreckers throw at it would not show.
Yeah I don’t hold much value in compression tests, might as well just too a leakdown, it will tell you all the pertinent information and then some.
Is this a rig you plan on keeping forever? If so, I'd save up for a quality rebuilt engine. Since you're in the Bay Area like me, there's an engine rebuilder I can highly recommend and that's Yota1 Performance in Riverbank, CA near Modesto.
A Yota1 Performance engine is featured in this video series.
To add to the list of parts for an engine swap, It's smart to replace the knock sensors and knock sensor wiring harness while you have the engine torn apart. At the very least replace the harness because they get brittle and fail.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Is this a rig you plan on keeping forever? If so, I'd save up for a quality rebuilt engine. Since you're in the Bay Area like me, there's an engine rebuilder I can highly recommend and that's Yota1 Performance in Riverbank, CA near Modesto.
A Yota1 Performance engine is featured in this video series.
To add to the list of parts for an engine swap, It's smart to replace the knock sensors and knock sensor wiring harness while you have the engine torn apart. At the very least replace the harness because they get brittle and fail.
If you buy the YotaShop head replacement gasket set it includes the knock harness.
Good list developing - I'll second the oil pump why not since it'll be staring at you doing TB.
Of all the members that replied to my oil pressure question, I have so far the highest oil pressure at a hot idle (after 31 miles of driving above 90f ) in gear at 600rpm in drive with foot on the brake.