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Old 06-17-2022, 04:28 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Let's just say the last time I tried it there were scary stopping issues... Lol.

Plus, are you supposed to use that pressure machine? I can't quite remember as it has been too long.
No pressure bleeding machine required.
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Old 06-17-2022, 06:15 PM #17
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Here's two videos for you on this subject. I suggest watching both. The second video is all about introducing a new tool for the job and sharing more tips for the job. Be sure to read the video descriptions and pinned comments as well because there's important information in both areas.




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Old 06-20-2022, 10:42 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
Here's two videos for you on this subject. I suggest watching both. The second video is all about introducing a new tool for the job and sharing more tips for the job. Be sure to read the video descriptions and pinned comments as well because there's important information in both areas.
Thanks @mtbtim for your help and replying to this thread. Your videos (and Shawn’s) have been a major tool I’ve used for almost every maintenance job I’ve done on my 4Runner’s. Lower ball joints, new suspension for lift, ARB bumper install, timing belt water pump job, JBA UCA replacement, bud built rear diff cover, and now axle seal replacements. Thank you for your content and your help. I know there is major effort and work that goes into your videos, it’s truly informative and extremely helpful.

Back to the thread. I ended up replacing the drivers side rear seals, bearings, and associated parts. It was for sure a leak in the seal, there was gear oil where the seal and ABS sensor router meet up. I caught the leak soon enough, and the drum brakes were not soaked in. gear oil or showed any signs of oil around the brakes.

I took the axle and bearing to local Toyota dealership to press on the new bearings. I also asked them to use the mrcoffee method of flipping the inner bearing spacer. I also asked them to leave 3-4mm of polished axle. I didn’t perform grease test to see where seal was mating, since I’m not able to move bearing seal, I’m hoping the seal is good now. Time will tell. They charged me 1 hour of labor at $149, to remove old and press on new bearing.

I wanted to do both sides at the same time, but my area to work only allows me to work on one side at a time. I have the parts to do the other side, but I’m just holding off to monitor the newly replaced side. Just going to monitor for now. Drove it around the block and no noticeable leaks yet. I’ll post some pictures of part numbers I used for my 2002 SR5. Be sure and checkout @mtbtim videos and the description for parts for 1996-2000 and 2001-2002 a few parts for the job do differ. It cost me a total of $233.76 for parts for both sides to replace all the parts listed. I purchased 3 seals just incase I damaged one. Only need 2 (one for each side).

Plus another one $8.47 for new crush washers for the real diff drain and fill plug. Here is link to crush washer set.

I did use a hammer seal puller to remove old seal as a loaner for Advanced. The Lisle 56750 Seal Puller wasn't getting the seal out easily, I didn't want to damage the axle housing. The loaner tool pulled it out with 2-3 slides. Works perfectly. I used this tool to help drive in new seal , it worked best with the 76mm head.

Hope this helps anyone else preparing to do this job.
Attached Images
Overfilled Rear Diff Fluid? Or Bad Rear Seals?-collage-jpg  Overfilled Rear Diff Fluid? Or Bad Rear Seals?-screen-shot-2022-06-20-11-19-12-pm-jpg 
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Daily: 2000 SR5 3rd gen 4runner - 4wd - Tundra 5100, OME springs (3in lift), 32 in Falken Wildpeak AT3W (275/70/r16) - 245K miles

Last edited by scshack; 06-20-2022 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Added image
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