I have a 97 and recently developed a driveshaft squeak. I greased all the zerks and even sprayed wd40 in hopes it would silence it but nothing has worked. It seems to get lounder when trans is in reverse. When im driving i will slip it into neutral and the sound goes away but comes back as soon as i shift back into drive. It only happens when in drive or reverse and at low speed when I'm at freeway speed there is no squeak or maybe cannot hear it
I attached the link to a video hopefully someone has had this same issue from the driveshaft that can lend a helping hand.
I have a 97 and recently developed a driveshaft squeak. I greased all the zerks and even sprayed wd40 in hopes it would silence it but nothing has worked. It seems to get lounder when trans is in reverse. When im driving i will slip it into neutral and the sound goes away but comes back as soon as i shift back into drive. It only happens when in drive or reverse and at low speed when I'm at freeway speed there is no squeak or maybe cannot hear it
I attached the link to a video hopefully someone has had this same issue from the driveshaft that can lend a helping hand.
One of the ujoints may not be fully taking grease to one of the bearings, or as mentioned, check the cardan/slip joint.
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2003 Limited, V8, AWD. 4600 Bils/FJ springs, 1/2" spacer, SPC UCA, Super Pro bushings in front LCA and in all rear control arms, Michelin 265/65R17 LTX/Defenders, stock wheels with homemade center caps, Stop Tech slotted rotors w/Posi Quiet pads all around.
Or similarly, if the needle bearings in one of the caps have gone... well it doesn't matter how much grease you put in.
That's kinda the shitty thing about drivelines an u-joints: they tend to go in a hurry with little warning. Just last month out of the clear blue sky my cardan started squeaking - and I mean that literally. No rain or anything that week, and it didn't even start squeaking until I was halfway home after leaving work. Was just cruising along and suddenly at the drop of a hat, squeak squeak squeak....
If you have an OEM driveline unfortunately you cannot replace the u-joints in the cardan. Believe me, I tried to ignore the warnings thinking "it's just a driveline, what could they mean?" and after a solid 9-10 hours I finally got the new joints installed and the noise/vibration was twice as worse as before I started - the main problem being the cardan appears to be held under tension and once the u-joints are knocked out, the yokes flare outwards by 10-20 thousandths and make it impossible for the caps of a new joint to sit in evenly, and instead will gouge into the sockets of the yokes. If I remember right the center ball in the cardan is also halfway open and SUPER easy to knock the needles out, which is of course a part Toyota never made for replacement... so if that happens you're just as screwed. Honestly just an all around crap design for a prop rod.
A new rear driveline sounds like quite the investment but it's really not, a driveline shop will make you a custom shaft that's actually serviceable AND much stronger than OEM for $300-400, but a new OEM shaft will run you $450+. I don't even think you can grease the center ball on the OEM shaft which is just absurd. Mine was only $350 and came with a forged cardan and case hardened slip yoke.
So after playing with it a bit more it definitely sounds like it's coming from the u joint that butts up against the rear diff. I like to go with Toyota parts so I may have to wait till Tuesday to get a replacement. I will update once I swap them out. Thank you guys!
So after playing with it a bit more it definitely sounds like it's coming from the u joint that butts up against the rear diff. I like to go with Toyota parts so I may have to wait till Tuesday to get a replacement. I will update once I swap them out. Thank you guys!
The slip yoke joint can be replaced like normal and doesn't require a whole new shaft
I heard about the cutting method after making this video. With the right technique and tools, it can be done without cutting, but I think I'll probably try cutting the next time I do it.
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Totally not 4Runner related, but I just replaced the driveshaft on our GLK350 that's been clunking for a while. Turns out it's a common failure, often disintegrating at speed and taking out the engine or the transmission in the process. Lucky me to catch it early.
And here is the post mortem autopsy. I have been working on cars for many years, and never seen anything this bad. The bearing cup has completely disintegrated, and the cross was just rubbing on the housing, which is why it is so worn away.