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Old 07-08-2022, 01:44 PM #16
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They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
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Old 07-08-2022, 02:50 PM #17
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Quote:
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They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
Awesome info John. Thank you. You guys have just about talked me into doing a head gasket job. The farthest I've ever torn into an auto engine is replacing some cams. I have a spare vehicle to use while Im doing the work. So, worse case scenario, it needs new heads. Waiting on a machine shop wouldn't kill me. Where should I get the replacement hardware like the studs, gaskets, and things? Someone recommended Yota1. They the best?
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Old 07-08-2022, 02:56 PM #18
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They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
Agreed. If this were the 3VZ-E, you'd want to go studs as those engines blow headgaskets often without cause. For the 5VZ-FE bolts are more than enough. I've pushed 7+ PSI in the previous engine for over 100K miles and 11 PSI for 25K miles on my current engine with factory head bolts. They are good for up to 15 PSI from what I've been told from Toyota engine builders. Engine failure was not head gasket related, if you're wondering.

Honestly the best part supplier is going to be your local Toyota Dealership. If their prices are bad, try McGeorge Toyota (they are on the east coast too so shorter shipping). Their online prices are the best you can find. Most of Yota1's parts are just OEM Toyota parts that they've bought wholesale and then marked up the price even higher than Toyota. No offense to those who buy from them but they are not worth it.

Also the 51K miles to go before the timing belt comment made me laugh. At the rate I drive my 4Runner now due to gas prices that'd be in about 10-12 years!
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Old 07-08-2022, 03:14 PM #19
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Yeah, for whatever reason, some dealers will ship OEM parts counter parts for less than your local dealer will sell them. We'll occasionally buy stuff from the dealer here (maybe 1.5 miles from home), but usually it's from one of the online dealer parts websites. Camelback, McGeorge, etc.

And for the TB/WP kits, aircabinman on Ebay. aircabinman on eBay
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Old 07-08-2022, 03:22 PM #20
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My local Toyota dealer sells same price or less then McGeorge on most parts, plus no shipping, so I shop them, as well as:

Yota1
Yotashop
Amazon
eBay

In that order, usually

+1 on aircabinman for TB/WP kits
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Old 07-08-2022, 03:40 PM #21
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Awesome info John. Thank you. You guys have just about talked me into doing a head gasket job. The farthest I've ever torn into an auto engine is replacing some cams. I have a spare vehicle to use while Im doing the work. So, worse case scenario, it needs new heads. Waiting on a machine shop wouldn't kill me. Where should I get the replacement hardware like the studs, gaskets, and things? Someone recommended Yota1. They the best?
If you have time to wait on parts to arrive I have found amayama.com to be cheaper even with shipping for most parts. It does require some extra planning on your part to make sure you are ordering everything you need, but worst case scenario you forget a part or two and have to hit up your local Toyota dealer.
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Old 07-08-2022, 04:15 PM #22
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If you have time to wait on parts to arrive I have found amayama.com to be cheaper even with shipping for most parts. It does require some extra planning on your part to make sure you are ordering everything you need, but worst case scenario you forget a part or two and have to hit up your local Toyota dealer.
Amayama has canceled as many orders for me as they have delivered. Unpredictable with delays, it's like gambling for parts.

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Old 07-08-2022, 04:55 PM #23
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Amayama has canceled as many orders for me as they have delivered. Unpredictable with delays, it's like gambling for parts.

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I've never had any problems with them in the 10 plus orders I've made from them.

EDIT: Amayama has even been able to get parts that I couldn't find stateside or partsouq or megazip
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Old 07-09-2022, 04:32 PM #24
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Looks like I'm in a similar situation. 1999 limited with compression of 90 psi on cylinder #6. No coolant loss and "wet" test didnt raise the psi, so I suspect its a burnt/stuck/cracked valve.

I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for reasonably priced rebuilt heads? Also those who have gone the rebuilt head route was it worth it?
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Old 07-16-2022, 10:42 AM #25
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Yeah, for whatever reason, some dealers will ship OEM parts counter parts for less than your local dealer will sell them. We'll occasionally buy stuff from the dealer here (maybe 1.5 miles from home), but usually it's from one of the online dealer parts websites. Camelback, McGeorge, etc.

And for the TB/WP kits, aircabinman on Ebay. aircabinman on eBay

There is more than one pricing tier. I forget what it’s called. It’s essentially the price they sell to other shops or individuals they have good relationships with. I get this “wholesale “ from my local shop.

Try to develop that relationship. It’s super nice having access to that parts information and pricing.

Unfortunately, depending on how cool the shop is, that may not even be possible. I really lucked out having such a great dealer near me.
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Old 07-16-2022, 10:49 AM #26
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Depending on your skill and your access to a good machine shop (which honestly is the biggest challenge) I’d say compression test it hot and cold. You can also test the head gasket to see if it’s leaking. Not the best test, because many times it’s temperature related, but sometimes you can isolate your final diagnosis that way.

Some of these tests require tools which guys may not have, Or the knowledge to use. But if you’re willing to learn it’s certainly possible. You have access to some great resources, manuals, and even people on this site. Mtbtim’s videos are an incredible resource also.

I would vote to go through my engine and rebuild it versus buying an unknown used engine to me. That direction is obviously not for everyone and it takes a little bit of time.

You may find that it’s simply just a head gasket, and the rest of the engine is just fine. Replace the head gasket as needed would be my suggestion if that is what’s wrong.

I’m a huge fan of having multiple vehicles around for this reason alone. When a vehicle goes down, it’s not a big deal if you have a back up.
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Old 08-03-2022, 01:23 PM #27
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Okay, I went remanufactured head route from cylinder heads international in TX. Thank you to everyone that pushed me that route. Neither of my heads were cracked once I got in there to replace the head gaskets. But I figured it was cheap(ish) insurance to get me another 250k miles. Replaced all the gaskets and bolts with OEM. New fuel injectors from motor west. Coils and wires are OEM with less than 10k miles. Same with the spark plugs. Got everything back together yesterday and got it fired up. Idles great and no strange noises. But, it wont rev without hesitation. I let it warm up long enough to throw a code. P0170, lean bank one. So I'm likely chasing a vacuum leak. Did the brake fluid spraying trick around all the visible vacuum lines and got no response from the engine. Any other ideas before I start taking the intake plenums off and digging deeper?
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Old 08-04-2022, 12:45 PM #28
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There's a few around the back of the manifold that aren't obvious visually. Start there before pulling things apart.

-Charlie
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Old 08-04-2022, 04:08 PM #29
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There's a few around the back of the manifold that aren't obvious visually. Start there before pulling things apart.

-Charlie
Line running from the fuel pressure regulator had a tiny crack. Replaced it. Also found 2 bolts that were not tight. Cleaned MAF sensor with correct MAF cleaning spray. Retorqued everything and restarted. It will rev now! But, hesitates (almost like a gasp) when first hitting the throttle, revs freely after that. Throws the same lean code after getting warm.
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