07-08-2022, 01:44 PM
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#16
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They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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07-08-2022, 02:50 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Gainesville, Ga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
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Awesome info John. Thank you. You guys have just about talked me into doing a head gasket job. The farthest I've ever torn into an auto engine is replacing some cams. I have a spare vehicle to use while Im doing the work. So, worse case scenario, it needs new heads. Waiting on a machine shop wouldn't kill me. Where should I get the replacement hardware like the studs, gaskets, and things? Someone recommended Yota1. They the best?
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[I]1999 Limited w/rear locker, OME Springs Bilstein shocks, black TRD FJ wheels, Ryno skid, satoshi grill, Hilux snorkel, HID retro-fit headlights, Coastal off-road front bumper, Smittybilt 9500 winch, Shrockworks sliders
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07-08-2022, 02:56 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
They're TTY bolts, so you shouldn't reuse them. I'm sure some people do and it probably works most of the time. But I'd just get new OEM bolts. ARP if you are planning on throwing some boost at it (in combo with other mods), but there's little reason to think you'd need better clamping than the stock headbolts.
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Agreed. If this were the 3VZ-E, you'd want to go studs as those engines blow headgaskets often without cause. For the 5VZ-FE bolts are more than enough. I've pushed 7+ PSI in the previous engine for over 100K miles and 11 PSI for 25K miles on my current engine with factory head bolts. They are good for up to 15 PSI from what I've been told from Toyota engine builders. Engine failure was not head gasket related, if you're wondering.
Honestly the best part supplier is going to be your local Toyota Dealership. If their prices are bad, try McGeorge Toyota (they are on the east coast too so shorter shipping). Their online prices are the best you can find. Most of Yota1's parts are just OEM Toyota parts that they've bought wholesale and then marked up the price even higher than Toyota. No offense to those who buy from them but they are not worth it.
Also the 51K miles to go before the timing belt comment made me laugh. At the rate I drive my 4Runner now due to gas prices that'd be in about 10-12 years!
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07-08-2022, 03:14 PM
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#19
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Yeah, for whatever reason, some dealers will ship OEM parts counter parts for less than your local dealer will sell them. We'll occasionally buy stuff from the dealer here (maybe 1.5 miles from home), but usually it's from one of the online dealer parts websites. Camelback, McGeorge, etc.
And for the TB/WP kits, aircabinman on Ebay. aircabinman on eBay
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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07-08-2022, 03:22 PM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Los Angeles
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Real Name: C8H18 Mike
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My local Toyota dealer sells same price or less then McGeorge on most parts, plus no shipping, so I shop them, as well as:
Yota1
Yotashop
Amazon
eBay
In that order, usually
+1 on aircabinman for TB/WP kits
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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07-08-2022, 03:40 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirteater4
Awesome info John. Thank you. You guys have just about talked me into doing a head gasket job. The farthest I've ever torn into an auto engine is replacing some cams. I have a spare vehicle to use while Im doing the work. So, worse case scenario, it needs new heads. Waiting on a machine shop wouldn't kill me. Where should I get the replacement hardware like the studs, gaskets, and things? Someone recommended Yota1. They the best?
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If you have time to wait on parts to arrive I have found amayama.com to be cheaper even with shipping for most parts. It does require some extra planning on your part to make sure you are ordering everything you need, but worst case scenario you forget a part or two and have to hit up your local Toyota dealer.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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07-08-2022, 04:15 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
If you have time to wait on parts to arrive I have found amayama.com to be cheaper even with shipping for most parts. It does require some extra planning on your part to make sure you are ordering everything you need, but worst case scenario you forget a part or two and have to hit up your local Toyota dealer.
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Amayama has canceled as many orders for me as they have delivered. Unpredictable with delays, it's like gambling for parts.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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07-08-2022, 04:55 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
Amayama has canceled as many orders for me as they have delivered. Unpredictable with delays, it's like gambling for parts.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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I've never had any problems with them in the 10 plus orders I've made from them.
EDIT: Amayama has even been able to get parts that I couldn't find stateside or partsouq or megazip
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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07-09-2022, 04:32 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jul 2022
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Looks like I'm in a similar situation. 1999 limited with compression of 90 psi on cylinder #6. No coolant loss and "wet" test didnt raise the psi, so I suspect its a burnt/stuck/cracked valve.
I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for reasonably priced rebuilt heads? Also those who have gone the rebuilt head route was it worth it?
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07-16-2022, 10:42 AM
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#25
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
Yeah, for whatever reason, some dealers will ship OEM parts counter parts for less than your local dealer will sell them. We'll occasionally buy stuff from the dealer here (maybe 1.5 miles from home), but usually it's from one of the online dealer parts websites. Camelback, McGeorge, etc.
And for the TB/WP kits, aircabinman on Ebay. aircabinman on eBay
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There is more than one pricing tier. I forget what it’s called. It’s essentially the price they sell to other shops or individuals they have good relationships with. I get this “wholesale “ from my local shop.
Try to develop that relationship. It’s super nice having access to that parts information and pricing.
Unfortunately, depending on how cool the shop is, that may not even be possible. I really lucked out having such a great dealer near me.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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07-16-2022, 10:49 AM
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#26
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Depending on your skill and your access to a good machine shop (which honestly is the biggest challenge) I’d say compression test it hot and cold. You can also test the head gasket to see if it’s leaking. Not the best test, because many times it’s temperature related, but sometimes you can isolate your final diagnosis that way.
Some of these tests require tools which guys may not have, Or the knowledge to use. But if you’re willing to learn it’s certainly possible. You have access to some great resources, manuals, and even people on this site. Mtbtim’s videos are an incredible resource also.
I would vote to go through my engine and rebuild it versus buying an unknown used engine to me. That direction is obviously not for everyone and it takes a little bit of time.
You may find that it’s simply just a head gasket, and the rest of the engine is just fine. Replace the head gasket as needed would be my suggestion if that is what’s wrong.
I’m a huge fan of having multiple vehicles around for this reason alone. When a vehicle goes down, it’s not a big deal if you have a back up.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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08-03-2022, 01:23 PM
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#27
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Okay, I went remanufactured head route from cylinder heads international in TX. Thank you to everyone that pushed me that route. Neither of my heads were cracked once I got in there to replace the head gaskets. But I figured it was cheap(ish) insurance to get me another 250k miles. Replaced all the gaskets and bolts with OEM. New fuel injectors from motor west. Coils and wires are OEM with less than 10k miles. Same with the spark plugs. Got everything back together yesterday and got it fired up. Idles great and no strange noises. But, it wont rev without hesitation. I let it warm up long enough to throw a code. P0170, lean bank one. So I'm likely chasing a vacuum leak. Did the brake fluid spraying trick around all the visible vacuum lines and got no response from the engine. Any other ideas before I start taking the intake plenums off and digging deeper?
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[I]1999 Limited w/rear locker, OME Springs Bilstein shocks, black TRD FJ wheels, Ryno skid, satoshi grill, Hilux snorkel, HID retro-fit headlights, Coastal off-road front bumper, Smittybilt 9500 winch, Shrockworks sliders
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08-04-2022, 12:45 PM
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#28
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There's a few around the back of the manifold that aren't obvious visually. Start there before pulling things apart.
-Charlie
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08-04-2022, 04:08 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
There's a few around the back of the manifold that aren't obvious visually. Start there before pulling things apart.
-Charlie
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Line running from the fuel pressure regulator had a tiny crack. Replaced it. Also found 2 bolts that were not tight. Cleaned MAF sensor with correct MAF cleaning spray. Retorqued everything and restarted. It will rev now! But, hesitates (almost like a gasp) when first hitting the throttle, revs freely after that. Throws the same lean code after getting warm.
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[I]1999 Limited w/rear locker, OME Springs Bilstein shocks, black TRD FJ wheels, Ryno skid, satoshi grill, Hilux snorkel, HID retro-fit headlights, Coastal off-road front bumper, Smittybilt 9500 winch, Shrockworks sliders
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01-24-2023, 09:01 PM
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#30
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Ok similar problem here. 190,000 miles on my ‘99 and it recently started running rough but it hasn’t lit the check engine light. Injectors were replaced with a set from Motorwest when I did a tuneup a year and a half ago (approx 15,000 miles ago). First mechanic I took the vehicle to narrowed it down to the 6th cyl but they were thinking either the injector or the injector connector were bad. 2nd mechanic I took it to did a compression test and said it looked ok for a vehicle of that age. Then they did an air pressure test on cyl 6 and said it’s losing about 15%, so they thought I should replace the head. I’m curious about anyone’s experience with the ones from Cylinder Heads International, or if there are good aftermarket ones. This is a project that’s beyond my abilities and I’ll have to pay to have it done.
Or is it best at this point to replace the engine rather than spending the money to bandaid it by replacing the head?
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1999 SR5 manual 4WD; 300,000 miles!
Last edited by Langcow1; 01-24-2023 at 10:11 PM.
Reason: Additional info
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