07-12-2022, 02:09 AM
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#1
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Do you think I gained too much positive offset with these new wheels?
So I have a 98 SR5 I've been fixing up since last October and I bought wheels for it that are 16x7 cause I had always planned to put 265/75r16's on it and i liked the look of a few I saw online with these Tacoma rims. I just found out the stock offset is +15mm, or at least that's what posts on here have said, and these rims are +25mm.. I was sooooo disappointed when I found this out, because I actually in my eyes... Downgraded to a narrower track width purely for aesthetics.. (10mm x 2 = 0.7 inch, or almost 3/4 of an inch of track width lost). I'm really happy with the look but it might just be a tad bit narrow for me.
For some reason I did not think to look up the specs on these rims or do any due diligence on them... My fault completely. I could run spacers, but I don't wanna spend the money on those cause I don't like the idea of running spacers. Anyone here happy with their spacers? Spidertrax look good, but they're expensive and i'm wondering how often you have to retorque them? I like the carefree and sturdy feeling of security i get from a good rim with no spacer. I want dependability over everything. Looks are cool, but i want a rig that I can count on to not break down. I also know it's a bit harder on the wheel bearings with spacers.
I just got brand new KO2's to put on the rims... I thought I would finally be happy with my setup but now I'm a little disappointed. Is 10mm of positive offset really that much? It doesn't sound like a lot but I'm sure this changed the center of gravity of the rig quite a bit, gaining height and losing width. I might just have to cave and get spacers. Any recommendations for nice possibly negative offset 16x7 wheels? or even spacers? On the bright side there is zero rubbing for what i thought was stock suspension. Now i'm thinking there's taller coils on this truck cause it holds the 32s really nicely with no rubbing even on turns.
I could even get my old rims remounted but theyre so old and i'm not the biggest fan of how they look at all. I'd rather buy a new steelie or aluminum rim. Let me know what ya'll think.. Am i tripping out over something that isn't a big deal?
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07-12-2022, 06:47 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: chicagoland
Posts: 280
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Join Date: Dec 2020
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Looks great. Leave it man.
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07-12-2022, 07:32 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VogRunner
So I have a 98 SR5 I've been fixing up since last October and I bought wheels for it that are 16x7 cause I had always planned to put 265/75r16's on it and i liked the look of a few I saw online with these Tacoma rims. I just found out the stock offset is +15mm, or at least that's what posts on here have said, and these rims are +25mm.. I was sooooo disappointed when I found this out, because I actually in my eyes... Downgraded to a narrower track width purely for aesthetics.. (10mm x 2 = 0.7 inch, or almost 3/4 of an inch of track width lost). I'm really happy with the look but it might just be a tad bit narrow for me.
For some reason I did not think to look up the specs on these rims or do any due diligence on them... My fault completely. I could run spacers, but I don't wanna spend the money on those cause I don't like the idea of running spacers. Anyone here happy with their spacers? Spidertrax look good, but they're expensive and i'm wondering how often you have to retorque them? I like the carefree and sturdy feeling of security i get from a good rim with no spacer. I want dependability over everything. Looks are cool, but i want a rig that I can count on to not break down. I also know it's a bit harder on the wheel bearings with spacers.
I just got brand new KO2's to put on the rims... I thought I would finally be happy with my setup but now I'm a little disappointed. Is 10mm of positive offset really that much? It doesn't sound like a lot but I'm sure this changed the center of gravity of the rig quite a bit, gaining height and losing width. I might just have to cave and get spacers. Any recommendations for nice possibly negative offset 16x7 wheels? or even spacers? On the bright side there is zero rubbing for what i thought was stock suspension. Now i'm thinking there's taller coils on this truck cause it holds the 32s really nicely with no rubbing even on turns.
I could even get my old rims remounted but theyre so old and i'm not the biggest fan of how they look at all. I'd rather buy a new steelie or aluminum rim. Let me know what ya'll think.. Am i tripping out over something that isn't a big deal?
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I’ve ran Spidertraxx wheel spacers up front & in the rear since 2016, have wheeled with them, daily driven with them and they have been incredibly good to me (knock on wood)
I would recommend them to anyone without hesitation. Well worth the money in my opinion and often times you can find a used set on here/Craigslist/Marketplace I’m sure.
If I were you, I’d leave the wheels alone and run the wheel spacers. Less costly than a new set of wheels, plus the ones you have on right now look badass! I have to agree with
@ crawlingjunk
On a separate note, I love the design you did with your roof rack wind deflector, very unique and nicely done for sure.
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07-12-2022, 01:55 PM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2013
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I wouldn't sweat 10mm unless you were running 11.5"+ wide tires. Maybe add a 1/4" shim?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
On a separate note, I love the design you did with your roof rack wind deflector, very unique and nicely done for sure.
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Harbor Freight basket right there
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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07-12-2022, 05:01 PM
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#5
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I'd say its the perfect chance to put on 20mm spacers all around!
Or leave it as is. The newer Tacoma wheels generally look good, no matter what.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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07-12-2022, 05:38 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
I'd say its the perfect chance to put on 20mm spacers all around!
Or leave it as is. The newer Tacoma wheels generally look good, no matter what.
-Charlie
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20mm is over 3/4" - would he need longer studs for that or does that come as a hub centric spacer?
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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07-13-2022, 05:06 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
I wouldn't sweat 10mm unless you were running 11.5"+ wide tires. Maybe add a 1/4" shim?
Harbor Freight basket right there
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Works for me! haha, all I'm putting up there is gas tanks anyway. I don't like carrying stuff on the roof, but I also don't like storing gas in my cabin. It's a cheap non permanent solution! Also personally not a fan of those swing out metal gas tank holders people put behind the hatch!
Someday i'll buy a sturdier roof rack but for now this guy works and looks cool!
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07-13-2022, 05:11 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
I'd say its the perfect chance to put on 20mm spacers all around!
Or leave it as is. The newer Tacoma wheels generally look good, no matter what.
-Charlie
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TY i picked them for looks purely. I really love the way they look. A 20mm spacer would be perfect. Any brand recommendations? I don't wanna go cheap on spacers and lose a wheel. I also have extra deep lugs i believe, would i need wheel longer studs? I'm doing maintenance on the truck next week at my uncles house. Fixing a very minor oil pan leak, replacing the starter, and putting new poly body bushings on. So i'll have a chance then to make any modification i want to it and maybe add spacers
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07-13-2022, 05:49 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
20mm is over 3/4" - would he need longer studs for that or does that come as a hub centric spacer?
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Even a 10mm or 1/4" spacer should/would need to be hubcentric and likely would require longer studs. Once you go to 20mm and above, the spacer would have its own studs, like this:
The Spidertrax spacers mentioned above (and pictured here) are hubcentric, and have worked for many.
I personally run 5th gen 4Runner wheels, so don't need/use spacers.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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07-13-2022, 06:12 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Even a 10mm or 1/4" spacer should/would need to be hubcentric and likely would require longer studs. Once you go to 20mm and above, the spacer would have its own studs, like this:
The Spidertrax spacers mentioned above (and pictured here) are hubcentric, and have worked for many.
I personally run 5th gen 4Runner wheels, so don't need/use spacers.
-Charlie
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I see. Well i think i'm going to just keep these wheels with no spacers. Spidertrax would be the second option but they're almost the cost of some Level 8 aluminum rims that look decent. (300$ vs 590) and i wouldn't have any wheelbearing stress or have to worry about torquing).I think my stance i'm pretty happy with! Maybe in a year or so i'll get some new rims.
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07-14-2022, 12:50 AM
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#11
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Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Even a 10mm or 1/4" spacer should/would need to be hubcentric and likely would require longer studs. Once you go to 20mm and above, the spacer would have its own studs, like this:
The Spidertrax spacers mentioned above (and pictured here) are hubcentric, and have worked for many.
I personally run 5th gen 4Runner wheels, so don't need/use spacers.
-Charlie
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It should be stated there's a reason why Spidertrax are as big as they are
Here's what happens when they're only 1 inch thick - nut protrudes from the spacer. Actually the stud itself is too high too; doesn't stick out as far as the nut but definitely wasn't below the surface.
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Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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07-14-2022, 10:05 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
It should be stated there's a reason why Spidertrax are as big as they are
Here's what happens when they're only 1 inch thick - nut protrudes from the spacer. Actually the stud itself is too high too; doesn't stick out as far as the nut but definitely wasn't below the surface.
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I figured there might be a strength advantage to running a thicker spacer. I was thinking of running the BORA .75 inch spacer, it's a bit harder to come by and a half inch thinner. I was hesitant to buy it though because spidertrax look the best. They got chromoly studs and they look absolutely beefy. But in my head, a thicker spacer means more uneven load on the wheel bearing. I'm no engineer that's just they way it makes sense in my head. I also don't want 1.25 of offset, i only really want like 20mm tops, but 1.25 wouldn't be bad. I think my wheels would poke out nicely.
Once i start weighing the pros and cons, the less i want spacers, but I know a lot of users here run them that's why i wanted to get some people on here to let me know their experiences cause I'm kind of on the fence. When you do torque checks do you find anything has loosened or have you encountered LBJ or wheel bearing issues? I'd probably check torque every oil change at 5lbs lower than original torque to prevent messing with the loctite bond if i got them. It sounds like a lot of extra maintenance but it'll probably motivate me to rotate my tires more often if anything.
Last edited by VogRunner; 07-14-2022 at 10:10 AM.
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07-14-2022, 01:51 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
It should be stated there's a reason why Spidertrax are as big as they are
Here's what happens when they're only 1 inch thick - nut protrudes from the spacer. Actually the stud itself is too high too; doesn't stick out as far as the nut but definitely wasn't below the surface.
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Yes, the wheels have to have 'pockets' between the studs (most do) to run less than probably 1.25" spacers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VogRunner
But in my head, a thicker spacer means more uneven load on the wheel bearing. I'm no engineer that's just they way it makes sense in my head. I also don't want 1.25 of offset, i only really want like 20mm tops, but 1.25 wouldn't be bad. I think my wheels would poke out nicely.
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Right now, you are 10mm 'wrong' in one direction on the wheels, and with a 20mm spacer, you'd be the same 'wrong' in the other direction. It matters basically nothing in the rear, based on the wheel bearing design. The front there is technically a chance of problems, though it doesn't really seem to be reported.
There would be some initial extra hassle to retorque the spacer/adapter a couple times, but once you have established that the inner nuts aren't loosening, you can leave them alone until the next maintenance where they have to come off.
Another possible issue with too much spacer or lower offset - increased chance of rubbing (scrub radius increase).
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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07-14-2022, 08:29 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VogRunner
I figured there might be a strength advantage to running a thicker spacer. I was thinking of running the BORA .75 inch spacer, it's a bit harder to come by and a half inch thinner. I was hesitant to buy it though because spidertrax look the best. They got chromoly studs and they look absolutely beefy. But in my head, a thicker spacer means more uneven load on the wheel bearing. I'm no engineer that's just they way it makes sense in my head. I also don't want 1.25 of offset, i only really want like 20mm tops, but 1.25 wouldn't be bad. I think my wheels would poke out nicely.
Once i start weighing the pros and cons, the less i want spacers, but I know a lot of users here run them that's why i wanted to get some people on here to let me know their experiences cause I'm kind of on the fence. When you do torque checks do you find anything has loosened or have you encountered LBJ or wheel bearing issues? I'd probably check torque every oil change at 5lbs lower than original torque to prevent messing with the loctite bond if i got them. It sounds like a lot of extra maintenance but it'll probably motivate me to rotate my tires more often if anything.
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If you're asking me directly I personally don't run spacers, I only bought some in case I wasn't happy with the offset of my new wheels. My offset already ended up being perfect, but then I saw how the stud sticks out anyways and promptly recycled them (tried to return them but the company was being an asshat about the whole experience)
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
Last edited by Devbot; 07-14-2022 at 08:33 PM.
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