The difference between the solid and the lipped crush is the solid copper / aluminum washers can be reused. The lipped crush can not...




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I thought the solid aluminum was only for the tcase and the rear diff only wanted the crush washers? Or does it really not matter all that much?

Doesn't matter that much. It's up to you.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Doesn't matter that much. It's up to you.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Taking on and off my air intake has been extra easy because the little insulators at the bottom of the silencer/resonator have been separated for years. Installed new ones and painted the bracket.




Cerakoted the cowl. I'm almost out of cerakote now, but almost out of exterior trim to cerakote.


Painted the feet to the seats and an old drivers side floor mat to get a sense of the black. Looks bad with only the mat as black, but I think black carpet + all the lower trim painted as black would look good. Cements my decision to get black weathertechs.

Take a look as pictures of newer vehicle interiors that have a two tone look for inspiration. Plenty of different ways it can go. You'll want to avoid doing a color change on anything that gets lots of use/wear. (seat belt rollers, handles, etc.)

-Charlie

I was able to mostly solve my highway vibration by lowering the coilovers by 1". And they drive sooo much smoother. I'm really happy with them now. I expected the Kings would come from the factory at the recommended ride height of +1.5", but I still have 7 rotations left (5 rotations = 1"), so it seems like they came set to 2.5".

There is a pop in the front right, and I found the Napa CV had a ton of play, so I tried replacing it with one of the spares. No changes, but now I'm flinging grease all over my new parts.



On my endless quest to chase down idle vibration I replaced the engine and trans mounts.


Surprisingly there was no rust on the plates:


There were some seriously sketchy shenanigans happening to jack up the engine. Didn't want to crush the oil pan, so I opted to jack one side of the block at a time by the flange where the oil pan bolts into. Figured leaving the other motor mount installed would mean less weight to jack up and more stability. But jacking up on 2x4s slotted between the diff and crossmembers was sketchy. It worked, but I would not recommend.


Of course, no difference in vibration. I guess another project I'll just keep telling myself is preventative. There was some cracking and compression on the rubber, so probably not too much life left in them.


it idles fine, but vibrates and has a slight lope at idle. smooth beyond that.

So far this is what I've done:
- spark plugs & wires
- cleaned MAF, TB & IAC
- seafoam top engine
- fuel system cleaner x2 (Redline SI-1 + BG 44k)
- valve adjustment
- fuel filter
- compression test
- Engine Restorer
- engine/trans mounts
- tested ignition coils

Nothing above made any noticeable difference.

Next idea is that I just noticed that the crank pulley wobbles a bit, and will investigate that. It was replaced a couple years ago, so perhaps it wasn't torqued down properly? or an issue with the aftermarket part?

Getting close to our big October trip and trying to wrap up the must-dos.

Added weathertechs, really bringing the interior together!


Went to the Timmy the Toolman BBQ, lots of awesome rigs! Met a bunch of cool people. Two other trucks had BMW seats installed. Someone else had a manual 3RZ, and their engine vibration was exactly the same...likely I'm just overthinking it.


Picked up a underhood light kit from TEQ Offroad:


Took a 4th of July trip to the Sierras off Hwy 4. Suspension felt really good fully loaded, and it evened out.


Right now I've got the headliner dropped and am welding in patches for the roof rust. With most of the trim off, I'm laying down sound deadener. I'll post a full update when I'm done.

I'm interested to hear how much of a difference the sound deadener in the roof makes.

I would imagine it would cut down on heat and noise at a minimum - looking forward to hearing about your results as well. Probably another future project for me.

Seats and Weathertechs look good!

The sound damping hasn't been noticeable to be honest, but maybe once I get the headliner and trim back on it will help. I do think the insulation has been slightly better though.

If ur just putting it on the roof ur not going to c 2 much diff, without doors rear hatch, etc ur return will be min. Try putting the fabric installation on top of the sound deadener, the stuff isn't for insulation as there is no air space in the material to allow for insulating. U would have to get a diff type of material to go over what u added (look up "second skin"), I'm using the padding off 3 diff rear cargo carpets for said (probably help minimally) and it also helps with sound when doing the thump tests u can heard a lot off diff between just the sound shit and sound plus carpet.

a lot if the sound deadener is more about a cleaner sounding music in the vehicle from what i've been reading

Forgot to mention this is 3-in-1, one of those layers is a closed cell foam, so it does have a little insulation. Agree, the roof isn't the main culprit, and this was very obvious when comparing the rust repair I've done in the floopan vs roof. I barely notice an increase in noise driving around when the roof was cut open, but it was annoyingly loud when the floorpan was open.

I don't want to drop the headliner again for many years, so put the deadener on while it was off. But I do plan to eventually do the rest.

the front and rear screws on the passenger roof rack rails have been rusting out for years. Two summers ago I fixed both holes with some fiberglass patches, but didn't bother dropping the headliner.


Hole #1 (front screw) failed within the first few months, and hole #2 (rear screw) was bubbling again with rust. It was time to do it right and weld in patches.

Here is the damage on hole #1. Yes, I limped through winter with some HVAC tape sealing it.


I decided to cut around all of the rust and weld in square patches:


Got the patch fitted snug:


and started welding it in. This was very slow going. I think I used a whole bottle of argon to complete this.


Hole #2 was bigger and extended over the rain gutter.


I couldn't figure out how to shape the gutter so I ended up welding in two patches:




Turned up the amps for the last patch and it went much better, I think I was being too timid and trying not to blow through. I put down some bondo to smooth everything out:


For the inside, I primer/painted/cosmolined. And then cut a hole in my newly patched roof to install a solar gland:



I finished with some paint matched rattle can and 2 part epoxy clear coat spray to finish it up. I warped the roof around both patches a TON, but it isn't very noticeable unless you are looking for it/looking at the top of the roof. Turned out really good considering my skill level, hopefully this lasts longer than the last effort!



Finished putting down the siles 3-in-1 on the entire roof except where the patches were.


Up next is the roof rack, which I'm just now painting...we leave for a 6 week Baja trip in 4 days...crunch time!

Good roof patching job. After patches I always seal in fiberglass then filler over top. Those patches should last you the life of the rig...good job..

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