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Old 08-21-2022, 11:27 AM #16
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Yeah and I think that list is going to include a charcoal canister now too. I got the tank back in yesterday and went to fill up and it did the same shit. I'm gonna pull the evap hose off the canister and try filling up again just to confirm its the canister (idk what else it would be at this point), but jfc this is getting expensive.
Maybe not?

I pulled the brand new evap hose off the charcoal canister, so it’s basically 3 feet of open 1” tube to the fuel tank (rollover valve is brand new too) and it still won’t take more than 1/10 of a gallon without clicking off. Tank was almost full (scangauge said I had burned 2.5 gallons since I topped it off the other day), so could the rollover valve float be closing that vent? I would think not since that’s how the tank vents during fill up, right?

I’m out of ideas and about ready to take it to a shop and let someone else deal with it.
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Old 08-21-2022, 03:03 PM #17
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Maybe not?

I pulled the brand new evap hose off the charcoal canister, so itís basically 3 feet of open 1Ē tube to the fuel tank (rollover valve is brand new too) and it still wonít take more than 1/10 of a gallon without clicking off. Tank was almost full (scangauge said I had burned 2.5 gallons since I topped it off the other day), so could the rollover valve float be closing that vent? I would think not since thatís how the tank vents during fill up, right?

Iím out of ideas and about ready to take it to a shop and let someone else deal with it.
what
the
f*ck

Fuel tank vents but also doesn’t. Wtaf. - YouTube
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Old 08-22-2022, 09:47 PM #18
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Bump for the video link in the previous post.

Need some emissions/EVAP experts.

The vent hose that connects the rollover valve on the top of the tank to the charcoal canister is the primary vent for fuel filling, right?

If that's the case, disconnecting that vent hose from the charcoal canister should effectively leave the fuel tank open to atmosphere, right?

There's a little diaphragm valve in the top of the rollover valve assy that's "driven" by a vent line that goes to the top of the fuel filler neck, but I think it just equalizes pressure in the tank and passively closes the tank off if the tank pressure drops below atmospheric pressure.

For the life of me I can't figure out why the tank won't vent with that vent hose open to atmosphere when I'm adding fuel, but it's clearly open when I add a little compressed air.

Any thoughts? I ordered a borescope that should be here tomorrow so I can check the filler neck for any obstructions but that seems like a long shot to me.
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Old 08-22-2022, 10:04 PM #19
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Bump for the video link in the previous post.

Need some emissions/EVAP experts.

The vent hose that connects the rollover valve on the top of the tank to the charcoal canister is the primary vent for fuel filling, right?

If that's the case, disconnecting that vent hose from the charcoal canister should effectively leave the fuel tank open to atmosphere, right?

There's a little diaphragm valve in the top of the rollover valve assy that's "driven" by a vent line that goes to the top of the fuel filler neck, but I think it just equalizes pressure in the tank and passively closes the tank off if the tank pressure drops below atmospheric pressure.

For the life of me I can't figure out why the tank won't vent with that vent hose open to atmosphere when I'm adding fuel, but it's clearly open when I add a little compressed air.

Any thoughts? I ordered a borescope that should be here tomorrow so I can check the filler neck for any obstructions but that seems like a long shot to me.
The vent hose is for venting excess fuel vapor/pressure during normal operation for the evap system. The small lines by the filler neck are what vents air while you fill the tank. Trace and check that. I don’t remember if it’s one or two small hoses/lines at the filler neck.
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Old 08-22-2022, 10:07 PM #20
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The vent hose is for venting excess fuel vapor/pressure during normal operation for the evap system. The small lines by the filler neck are what vents air while you fill the tank. Trace and check that. I don’t remember if it’s one or two small hoses/lines at the filler neck.
There are two of them in the filler neck I think. I'll take another look at them tomorrow afternoon but I did check them and they passed air pretty easily. Edit: or at least they seemed to.
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Old 09-16-2022, 05:43 PM #21
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There are two of them in the filler neck I think. I'll take another look at them tomorrow afternoon but I did check them and they passed air pretty easily. Edit: or at least they seemed to.
Welp, all the vent lines pass air easily. Still fighting this fkn thing though.

I'm not sure what the next step is besides throwing parts at it.
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Old 09-16-2022, 10:21 PM #22
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Welp, all the vent lines pass air easily. Still fighting this fkn thing though.



I'm not sure what the next step is besides throwing parts at it.
Crap. Maybe the exhaust leak just melted the internals of your charcoal canister. Then you just need a pick and pull replacement. :/



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Old 09-16-2022, 10:47 PM #23
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Old 09-17-2022, 05:01 PM #24
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Crap. Maybe the exhaust leak just melted the internals of your charcoal canister. Then you just need a pick and pull replacement. :/



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It may have. This thing has 260k on it, so it might just be aged out.

What Iím wondering though is does the tank vent through the charcoal canister for filling? I think what Bad Luck said earlier about the tank venting through the filler neck is accurate.

Edit:

The two circles here, not the ďvent hoseĒ. One of the vents in the filler neck is plumbed to that weird diaphragm valve in the top of the rollover valve, and the other (circled here) is plumbed directly into the top of the tank.

I disconnected the circled line above the axle and put high pressure air on it, in both directions, and could hear it coming out the open filler neck, and towards the tank I could hear it sloshing gas around, so itís obviously passing air into the tank.
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Old 09-18-2022, 11:50 PM #25
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I haven't fully disgusted the late model 3rd gens evap box. Mine looked like any say it was going to rust into a pile of parts. So I got one when I had complete rear axle housing shipped back along the skids. Filler neck. Hitch. Rear hatch Seal and cut off rear quarter panels from CA.

From what I can remember. It had a pile of hoses on it with a few going to the tank and filler neck. 2 aluminum 1/2 lines going to the front of the rig. All kinds of relays etc.

I recall looking at 3 diagrams to make sure I got all the hoses connected properly and was very greatful when I fired it up I had zero cel lights on.

I wish I could be more help to you on this but unfortunately, I don't have enough experience with that evap system to pinpoint things...

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Old 09-20-2022, 06:38 PM #26
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Brake Drum from Hell: Update

Hi all, thanks to everyone for the advice. Here's an update to that brake drum issue I was having the other day.

After playing around with the star adjuster a little more, I realized that even when the lever is removed, the bolt is so gunked up that I can barely get it to move anyway. So I tried to grind the brake shoe pins off the back of the drum. I got one off, but the grinder was too big to get to the other and I didn't want to damage the parking brake. I decided to go with the nuclear option and cut the drum off.

The process of cutting the drum was surprisingly easy. It took maybe 20 minutes of total cut time, before finishing it off with a prybar. When I finally got a look inside, my struggles were validated.
Brake Drum Shenanigans - Album on Imgur

Here are the two brake drums for comparison. The right one was identical to the FSM diagrams, while the left side had a completely different setup. Not only is the lever on the rear side rather than the forward, but it is behind the shoes rather than in front. In addition, there is no tab to press to move the arm; instead, the tab must be moved directly away from the star piece before adjusting. Figuring that out while not being able to see anything was never going to happen.

But now I have two brake drums off, so life can go on! There's a ton of gunk and what looks to me like fiberglass in the drum, so I think I'll clean it up, put new shoes and drums on, and take it to a mechanic to diagnose a fluid leak.
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Old 09-21-2022, 09:39 AM #27
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Hi all, thanks to everyone for the advice. Here's an update to that brake drum issue I was having the other day.

After playing around with the star adjuster a little more, I realized that even when the lever is removed, the bolt is so gunked up that I can barely get it to move anyway. So I tried to grind the brake shoe pins off the back of the drum. I got one off, but the grinder was too big to get to the other and I didn't want to damage the parking brake. I decided to go with the nuclear option and cut the drum off.

The process of cutting the drum was surprisingly easy. It took maybe 20 minutes of total cut time, before finishing it off with a prybar. When I finally got a look inside, my struggles were validated.
Brake Drum Shenanigans - Album on Imgur

Here are the two brake drums for comparison. The right one was identical to the FSM diagrams, while the left side had a completely different setup. Not only is the lever on the rear side rather than the forward, but it is behind the shoes rather than in front. In addition, there is no tab to press to move the arm; instead, the tab must be moved directly away from the star piece before adjusting. Figuring that out while not being able to see anything was never going to happen.

But now I have two brake drums off, so life can go on! There's a ton of gunk and what looks to me like fiberglass in the drum, so I think I'll clean it up, put new shoes and drums on, and take it to a mechanic to diagnose a fluid leak.
You have a rear axle seal leaking causing gear oil to contaminate the rear shoes/drum. It looks like the adjuster on the left side is 180 degrees in the wrong direction, but it's been a while since I've looked at my drum brakes. Make sure your bell cranks for the parking brake are moving correctly. If I was you I would get a new hardware kit and new adjusters.

I would recommend getting the axle seal leak fixed first otherwise you are most likely going to get gear oil on the shoes/drum again and have to replace the shoes again.

The fiberglass you are seeing is the brake shoe friction material mixed with gear oil.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:03 PM #28
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@Bad Luck nailed it for you @MartinDa
Quote:
You have a rear axle seal leaking causing gear oil to contaminate the rear shoes/drum. It looks like the adjuster on the left side is 180 degrees in the wrong direction, but it's been a while since I've looked at my drum brakes. Make sure your bell cranks for the parking brake are moving correctly. If I was you I would get a new hardware kit and new adjusters.

I would recommend getting the axle seal leak fixed first otherwise you are most likely going to get gear oil on the shoes/drum again and have to replace the shoes again.

The fiberglass you are seeing is the brake shoe friction material mixed with gear oil.
You do realize you posted this in a totally different thread though, right?
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Old 09-28-2022, 03:56 PM #29
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Figured it out.

The rubber flex hose between the tank and the filler neck has some kind of liner that separated from the ID of the hose and halfway blocked it.

New hose and Iím good to go. ONLY TOOK ME TWO MONTHSÖ.
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Fuel tank not venting, even with vent hose disconnected. Need help!-cd09aa95-981f-4e43-bdf3-f938222b8d26-jpeg  Fuel tank not venting, even with vent hose disconnected. Need help!-7362bbd2-6f3b-45ca-824a-a3f5567f4bdb-jpg 
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Old 09-28-2022, 07:33 PM #30
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I have never seen that... Wow.. Glad you got it OP.. Great job.
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