Tundra Alternator - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

brillo_76 · 08-10-2022, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow247

My only reason for exploring the CS144 upgrade is the design of the alternator itself. I am on my 3rd alt in 2 years, always failing after playing in the mud. THE Toyota Alternator is WIDE open and packs up with mud and water easily. The CS144 is a closed case in the front that should theoretically prevent as much mud and debris from fouling the diodes and brushed....

Excellent point. They are fairly open.

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gamefreakgc · 08-10-2022, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow247

My only reason for exploring the CS144 upgrade is the design of the alternator itself. I am on my 3rd alt in 2 years, always failing after playing in the mud. THE Toyota Alternator is WIDE open and packs up with mud and water easily. The CS144 is a closed case in the front that should theoretically prevent as much mud and debris from fouling the diodes and brushed....

Is there any sort of "mud guard" you could make out of simple sheet metal to protect against it?

19963.4lsr5 · 08-11-2022, 03:59 AM

The Napa Suzuki Alts are rated for 115a and Denso is out of stock. I wonder if the stator for that Alt would fit in our 80a case

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2000se · 08-11-2022, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

You need to watch your wire gauge on the wire that goes from the charge post back over to the fuse box. Not only that but The fuse that drives it. You go above the late model 01 and 02 higher cap alt.. You are going to have to do some modifications to the system. Maybe you are aware of this. I just wanted to mention it. :-)

Good eye -
I was going to install the quality power 105 a few years back until I got to thinking about the above. Ended up going back to a new stock one. Wasn't too keen on chasing each thing that would burn out because of the increased volt/amperage.

brillo_76 · 08-11-2022, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2000se

Good eye -
I was going to install the quality power 105 a few years back until I got to thinking about the above. Ended up going back to a new stock one. Wasn't too keen on chasing each thing that would burn out because of the increased volt/amperage.

You don't want to blow your main alt fuse.. Nor melt the charging wire. I now get why some folks modify it. Just have to keep those things in mind is all. :-)

A 2nd wire off the modified alt to a 2nd fuse box of proper wire gauge would be fine. It too would have to be fused for safety.

19963.4lsr5 · 08-11-2022, 09:45 AM

For the record it takes an awful lot of accessories to be on at one time with the engine running to exceed 100a pushing out of the Alt, and 5 seconds at 110a isn’t going to blow a 100a slow blow fuse.

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brillo_76 · 08-11-2022, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

For the record it takes an awful lot of accessories to be on at one time with the engine running to exceed 100a pushing out of the Alt, and 5 seconds at 110a isn’t going to blow a 100a slow blow fuse.

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Very True... You ever try to change one of those 100amp or 120 amp fuses? It took us quite a long time to get it removed when we pulled the body harness out of the parts mobile.

19963.4lsr5 · 08-11-2022, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Very True... You ever try to change one of those 100amp or 120 amp fuses? It took us quite a long time to get it removed when we pulled the body harness out of the parts mobile.

I accidentally blew mine because I didn’t have the battery disconnected. I had a fuse from my cummins. They are a tight fit

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JoeT4R · 08-11-2022, 11:25 AM

Would upgrading to one of these alternators help prevent voltage drop when I have the A/C and headlights turned on? It usually goes down to about 12.8 VLT for me when both are on. If I cut off the headlights but leave the A/C on, it usually hovers around 13.0-13.2. This is while sitting at lights, idling.

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phattyduck · 08-11-2022, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Would upgrading to one of these alternators help prevent voltage drop when I have the A/C and headlights turned on? It usually goes down to about 12.8 VLT for me when both are on. If I cut off the headlights but leave the A/C on, it usually hovers around 13.0-13.2. This is while sitting at lights, idling.

12.8V is not DISCHARGING the battery, so at least from that perspective, you aren't causing problems. Even 13.0-13.2V isn't charging the battery much if anything. Is that voltage directly from the battery or somewhere else in the system? There may be other voltage drops and the battery isn't doing so bad.

First step though (from a reliability standpoint) is to check/verify all high current connections between the battery and alternator. If you are loosing power there, all the vehicle systems will suffer (including working the alt harder than it needs to be).

-Charlie

JoeT4R · 08-11-2022, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

12.8V is not DISCHARGING the battery, so at least from that perspective, you aren't causing problems. Even 13.0-13.2V isn't charging the battery much if anything. Is that voltage directly from the battery or somewhere else in the system? There may be other voltage drops and the battery isn't doing so bad.

First step though (from a reliability standpoint) is to check/verify all high current connections between the battery and alternator. If you are loosing power there, all the vehicle systems will suffer (including working the alt harder than it needs to be).

-Charlie

That voltage reading is from my ScanGauge tool. So I’m not sure if it’s reading the battery or the alt. The battery is still relatively new (7/21) and the alt is a Denso reman unit installed 8/21. So those two items should check out. I just never understood what caused that to happen. Or is it normal?

I’ll do some digging on the high current connections. I know pretty much nothing when it comes to electrical systems to this will be a good learning experience for me. It hasn’t caused me any issues (fortunately, knock on wood) but I just wanted to get some input. Thanks Charlie.

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19963.4lsr5 · 08-11-2022, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

That voltage reading is from my ScanGauge tool. So I’m not sure if it’s reading the battery or the alt. The battery is still relatively new (7/21) and the alt is a Denso reman unit installed 8/21. So those two items should check out. I just never understood what caused that to happen. Or is it normal?

I’ll do some digging on the high current connections. I know pretty much nothing when it comes to electrical systems to this will be a good learning experience for me. It hasn’t caused me any issues (fortunately, knock on wood) but I just wanted to get some input. Thanks Charlie.

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Our factory Alts are not capable of producing more than 40-42a if you are idling at 600rpm in gear with your foot on the brake. With a fully charged battery the ECU draws 15-17a. Add lights radio, fan and AC engaged and that’s well over the Alts capability at that low idle.

With just my headlight and fogs I’m pulling 38a to 40a. Then add the fan and ac clutch……

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Jetguy77 · 08-11-2022, 04:37 PM

When I purchased my 2001 Tundra I gave the dealer the options I wanted, there was an option called “Security Guard” I think. It included a 100 amp alternator and heavy duty heater blower
Hope that helps

JoeT4R · 08-11-2022, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

Our factory Alts are not capable of producing more than 40-42a if you are idling at 600rpm in gear with your foot on the brake. With a fully charged battery the ECU draws 15-17a. Add lights radio, fan and AC engaged and that’s well over the Alts capability at that low idle.

With just my headlight and fogs I’m pulling 38a to 40a. Then add the fan and ac clutch……

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So that would lead me to believe that it is normal for that to happen then. I sometimes have my radio on, sometimes I don’t. I wonder why Toyota designed it this way if that would happen?

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19963.4lsr5 · 08-11-2022, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

So that would lead me to believe that it is normal for that to happen then. I sometimes have my radio on, sometimes I don’t. I wonder why Toyota designed it this way if that would happen?

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A lot of Alts don’t produce more than half their rating at that low of an idle.

I have an amp gauge mounted in my dash to watch it’s output.

It’s not normal to drag down an Alt at idle with “just a radio” unless it the kind you can hear two blocks away.

My 1996 Saturn automatic with a CS120 105a Alt behaved the same way at idle if I had my lights on and fan on max speed. My Manual 2002 idles at 750 and doesn’t have a problem.

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