Clutch Fan on temp - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

brillo_76 · 09-28-2022, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

Well I put the gauges on this afternoon and it’s low at 12psi with the engine at idle.

With the clutch engaged at this psi it also means my low side switch is bad based on past experiences working on systems. I’m thinking somewhere around 20-25psi it should cut out the clutch.

I’ll get a can of 134 and a new low side switch tomorrow.

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Does the pressure fluctuate like go up and Down when it's on? As I seem very low refrigerate and the pressure switch still kick on because the pressure will float up to 20 psi. Shitbox has a brand new switch and will still kick the compressor with 5 or 10 psi in the system because of the varying pressure on the low side. Because when the pump kicks off the pressure may go up to 30 or 40 due to low refrigerate.

I wouldn't role the switch as bad until you test it.

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19963.4lsr5 · 09-28-2022, 06:19 PM

I should figure out what the set points are. But, saying that I need to press up the system an power up my sniffer and look for leaks.

It’s the wrong time of the year to troubleshoot an AC system……

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brillo_76 · 09-28-2022, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

I should figure out what the set points are. But, saying that I need to press up the system an power up my sniffer and look for leaks.

It’s the wrong time of the year to troubleshoot an AC system……

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Can you get a few pumps of dye in it? That UV dye with a good light will show you all the leaks. I think you can even get it mixed in in a can of 134a I am guessing your Condenser drier and compressor are done.

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19963.4lsr5 · 09-28-2022, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Can you get a few pumps of dye in it? That UV dye with a good light will show you all the leaks. I think you can even get it mixed in in a can of 134a I am guessing your Condenser drier and compressor are done.

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It’s got 2-4oz of dye in the system. Till I get a new 12oz can of 134a and press up the system I’m not jumping to conclusions.

Only thing green is the test ports…..and they were not showing dye until I started this…,

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brillo_76 · 09-28-2022, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

It’s got 2-4oz of dye in the system. Till I get a new 12oz can of 134a and press up the system I’m not jumping to conclusions.

Only thing green is the test ports…..and they were not showing dye until I started this…,

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Hmm.. So you have dye in the system and you are not seeing it anywhere at all?? The only thing left then is the evaporator box. :/

That's extremely odd. I have faith you will find the leak(s) :-)

19963.4lsr5 · 09-28-2022, 08:21 PM

In my experience a slow leak will not expose the dye.

I’ll recharge the system and put my sniffer to work. It’s probably a Schrader that is causing the leak.

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brillo_76 · 09-28-2022, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

In my experience a slow leak will not expose the dye.

I’ll recharge the system and put my sniffer to work. It’s probably a Schrader that is causing the leak.

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Good deal.

I agree if the leak is microscopic you may not find it with dye.

I have seen vehicles pass vacuum tests and still have leak.

Just curious, how long has it been sense you charged it last?

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19963.4lsr5 · 09-29-2022, 02:19 PM

I put one 12oz can in and at 64f outside I’m running 27psi on the low and 135psi ish on the high when the clutch engages on the cooling fan.

The pressure switch started cycling when I started charging it. I ordered another switch. Sadly I don’t think the switch is on a Schrader valve.

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brillo_76 · 09-29-2022, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

I put one 12oz can in and at 64f outside I’m running 27psi on the low and 135psi ish on the high when the clutch engages on the cooling fan.

The pressure switch started cycling when I started charging it. I ordered another switch. Sadly I don’t think the switch is on a Schrader valve.

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I can confirm 97/98 are the pressure switch is not on a valve its direct line so you have to pull the refregerate out then vacuum down then push it back in..

19963.4lsr5 · 09-29-2022, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I can confirm 97/98 are the pressure switch is not on a valve its direct line so you have to pull the refregerate out then vacuum down then push it back in..

Since it started cycling I punted. Pain in the ass the difference between what Toyota does and what seems to be standard on US models.

Point being Toyota doesn’t look at spark knock until 3000rpms.

Really? So backwards…..

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brillo_76 · 09-30-2022, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

Since it started cycling I punted. Pain in the ass the difference between what Toyota does and what seems to be standard on US models.

Point being Toyota doesn’t look at spark knock until 3000rpms.

Really? So backwards…..

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I never had to change one in 30 years for going bad. So I wouldn't knock Toyota too hard. Granted, that's one place the could have put a valve in.

Can they fail sure. It's extremely rare though.

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19963.4lsr5 · 09-30-2022, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76

Good deal.

I agree if the leak is microscopic you may not find it with dye.

I have seen vehicles pass vacuum tests and still have leak.

Just curious, how long has it been sense you charged it last?

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I charged it when I put the engine in. Which would be almost 30k miles ago. Eventually I’ll retighten fittings. I don’t suspect an EVAP leak. But my sniffer will find and EVAP leak faster than a leak in the engine compartment.

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