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Old 09-05-2022, 01:33 PM #16
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Originally Posted by McLoven1t562 View Post
Feel like they could use a cleaning, but doesn't look bad to me.
Pos Neg c
They need a good cleaning. They also make good grease that keep them from oxidizing. I agree they don't look bad enough to not conduct properly Though.

Why are you loosing power? Are the wires under the terminal caps shiny clean?

Any issues starting clicking?

Everything needs to be super clean and shiny for good conduction.. When I see terminals looking like that I kinda cringe...:/

Maybe those were on it before you got the rig but you can see how the copper is turning brown from being exposed to the oxygen. The wire should look like a new copper penny...

Do those terminals get warm when the vehicle is running? As that is another way to tell too much resistance is building up.
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Old 09-05-2022, 02:07 PM #17
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
They need a good cleaning. They also make good grease that keep them from oxidizing. I agree they don't look bad enough to not conduct properly Though.

Why are you loosing power? Are the wires under the terminal caps shiny clean?

Any issues starting clicking?

Everything needs to be super clean and shiny for good conduction.. When I see terminals looking like that I kinda cringe...:/

Maybe those were on it before you got the rig but you can see how the copper is turning brown from being exposed to the oxygen. The wire should look like a new copper penny...

Do those terminals get warm when the vehicle is running? As that is another way to tell too much resistance is building up.
Went ahead and scheduled a rental car for the next couple days so I can actually go and buy some products plus goto my unit and pick up tools (and get to work in the morning)

The connections to the terminals are very clean, but agreed that the terminals themselves could use a good scrubbing and greasing. I've only had the rig for a little over a year now and the battery itself is from March 2022 straight from Interstates wholesale factory, so it was on the shelf for a couple weeks before given to me.

I have no idea why the power is just gone, it's not that I'm losing it in a performance sense or anything. It simply starts when it wants to, and then times like this, not a damn thing has any power to it, no dome lights, gauges, door chime sound, lights, nothing.

When it does start, not a single issue. It turns immediately over once I turn the key, never heard any problematic sounds or had it hesitate. and yea I guarantee the positive & negative wiring is 100% OEM from 1996 so I can definitely try to brush off the exposed wiring best I can as I'm not sure if I have the length to cut and strip some of the wiring

No clue about them heating up as I've never tried to check that portion. Honestly it began as a "1 bad day" type issue and then the past week it started/ran perfectly so I figured it was no big deal.
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Old 09-05-2022, 02:32 PM #18
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Originally Posted by McLoven1t562 View Post
Went ahead and scheduled a rental car for the next couple days so I can actually go and buy some products plus goto my unit and pick up tools (and get to work in the morning)

The connections to the terminals are very clean, but agreed that the terminals themselves could use a good scrubbing and greasing. I've only had the rig for a little over a year now and the battery itself is from March 2022 straight from Interstates wholesale factory, so it was on the shelf for a couple weeks before given to me.

I have no idea why the power is just gone, it's not that I'm losing it in a performance sense or anything. It simply starts when it wants to, and then times like this, not a damn thing has any power to it, no dome lights, gauges, door chime sound, lights, nothing.

When it does start, not a single issue. It turns immediately over once I turn the key, never heard any problematic sounds or had it hesitate. and yea I guarantee the positive & negative wiring is 100% OEM from 1996 so I can definitely try to brush off the exposed wiring best I can as I'm not sure if I have the length to cut and strip some of the wiring

No clue about them heating up as I've never tried to check that portion. Honestly it began as a "1 bad day" type issue and then the past week it started/ran perfectly so I figured it was no big deal.
Its an odd one. I am just saying from my experiences, 95% of the time, when you have absolutely no power, you are loosing it the connections at the terminals. Or its the battery. ( I highly doubt the battery in this case ) Could be either terminal t
he positive or negative.

The main engine ground is right by the oil filter.. Lots of times this gets covered with oil. Mostly this effects starting only though.. :-( So I doubt its the cause in this case.


This one is maybe one of these that you super clean those terminals and connections and see if the issue is resolved. If not, you just keep tracing.

I would go after a conductive grease in these connections over a die electric grease as you already have connectivity issues. :-)

I can tell you that both your terminals are not 100% OEM. Toyota doesn't use lead terminal posts clamps. They use copper clamps. :-)
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Old 09-05-2022, 02:48 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Its an odd one. I am just saying from my experiences, 95% of the time, when you have absolutely no power, you are loosing it the connections at the terminals. Or its the battery. ( I highly doubt the battery in this case ) Could be either terminal t
he positive or negative.

The main engine ground is right by the oil filter.. Lots of times this gets covered with oil. Mostly this effects starting only though.. :-( So I doubt its the cause in this case.

This one is maybe one of these that you super clean those terminals and connections and see if the issue is resolved. If not, you just keep tracing.

I would go after a conductive grease in these connections over a die electric grease as you already have connectivity issues. :-)

I can tell you that both your terminals are not 100% OEM. Toyota doesn't use lead terminal posts clamps. They use copper clamps. :-)
I think I may just buy some new terminals since they're inexpensive and ya I meant the actual positive/negative wires. Terminals are most definitely aftermarket....and two completely different terminals for each post too lol. The guy had subs and crap in the rig when I bought it so there's tons of audio wiring through the vehicle which I'd LOVE to eliminate altogether since I just run speakers & stereo.

I'ma go buy a new terminal brush since they're like a dollar, grease, terminals and see what happens after that. Figure it's an easy/cheap under $20 attempt to see if anything happens.
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Old 09-05-2022, 06:31 PM #20
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Oh wow....... so I had checked the battery the other day and it tested good.

Just took it to Advance and it's at 7.9 volts and NINE, NINE CCA

Guess I need to look up Interstates exchange process since it's only 6 months old and replace my alternator while I'm at it.

Still got new terminals and grease while I'm at it, but I hope it's just replacing the alternator if they cant save the battery....told em to put it on the charger just to see what happens. They claim its recoverable
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Old 09-06-2022, 04:11 AM #21
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Your battery light never came on while driving?

Go buy a simple usb charger with a voltage readout that plugs into your cigarette lighter. Itís a easy, cheep, and constant way to watch your charging system.


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Old 09-06-2022, 09:27 AM #22
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I am suspecting an alternator issue as a possibility and or a bad short. You currently have lots of things to check.

What's your current draw with everything off?






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Old 09-06-2022, 03:18 PM #23
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nope, does the 96 even have that light? I've got a permanent ABS and Airbag light (no clockspring and deleted abs lol) those are covered up by electrical tape....but never saw any indicators on
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Old 09-06-2022, 05:05 PM #24
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totally forgot to test the draw, I ended up just finding a Duralast Gold at my local AutoZone and picked it up last night. Got home from work today and picked my charged battery up from Advanced, swapped alternators put the battery in and everything is running tits at the moment.

Can't save money by turning my rental in early so I'm just going to run to Kroger tonight with it but not drive it til at least tomorrow evening after i've returned the Hybrid I got....might as well save a little gas during the morning commute ha ha

Thanks for the help and sorry for my dickish moments, I'm sure you can understand this stuff is just frustrating when crap happens to your daily
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Old 09-06-2022, 06:34 PM #25
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nope, does the 96 even have that light? I've got a permanent ABS and Airbag light (no clockspring and deleted abs lol) those are covered up by electrical tape....but never saw any indicators on
Yes it does.. All 3rd gens have a charge light in the dash.

If you have some serious current draws with everything off. Your battery wont last long.

Lots of times folks hook up aftermarket radio amps wrong. Or dont fix the bad insulation or crack wires in their door jams which is a cause of alot of the short issues.

Plus if your alternator was not replaced with a denso, just some generic rebuild, don't expect it to last like the original one did. Sadly those advance, auto zone big box auto parts store quality is very bad.
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Old 09-06-2022, 10:01 PM #26
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Yes it does.. All 3rd gens have a charge light in the dash.

If you have some serious current draws with everything off. Your battery wont last long.

Lots of times folks hook up aftermarket radio amps wrong. Or dont fix the bad insulation or crack wires in their door jams which is a cause of alot of the short issues.

Plus if your alternator was not replaced with a denso, just some generic rebuild, don't expect it to last like the original one did. Sadly those advance, auto zone big box auto parts store quality is very bad.
whoops, I totally put a Duralast Gold alternator in lol -- oh well, it's on there, so we'll just go ahead and see how long it lasts. Sometimes ya get lucky and they last for a long time.

I'll put a meter on it soon and monitor the power but I'd be surprised if I have this issue again soon just because even with the previous alternator it never have this problem in almost 1 1/2 years whether it was with the old battery, new battery or now the new alternator. Still going to be worth monitoring though just in case.
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Old 09-06-2022, 10:33 PM #27
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Maybe your luck is better then most.. :-)

To check to see if your Bat light is bad. Turn your ignition on and all your lights should illuminate on your instrument cluster... This is how you tell if your lights are burned out or not in your instrument cluster.

I am sure you will keep us posted.
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Old 09-07-2022, 12:05 AM #28
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Oh wow....... so I had checked the battery the other day and it tested good.

Just took it to Advance and it's at 7.9 volts and NINE, NINE CCA

Guess I need to look up Interstates exchange process since it's only 6 months old and replace my alternator while I'm at it.

Still got new terminals and grease while I'm at it, but I hope it's just replacing the alternator if they cant save the battery....told em to put it on the charger just to see what happens. They claim its recoverable
Check the alternator 120 amp fuse is good.
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Old 09-07-2022, 06:17 PM #29
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Check the alternator 120 amp fuse is good.
yea I'll be sure to double check it once I go pick up some of my tools from my storage unit. I'll find some space in my closet to store em this time lol

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Maybe your luck is better then most.. :-)

To check to see if your Bat light is bad. Turn your ignition on and all your lights should illuminate on your instrument cluster... This is how you tell if your lights are burned out or not in your instrument cluster.

I am sure you will keep us posted.
only time will tell on the luck, I am a red headed irish man, so ya know ;)

Yea so the battery light does illuminate which is nice, just wish it would've come on at some point leading up to this issue!!! lol , looks to me like all the proper lights are still good because I see a ton of signals on before I turn the ignition on. So appears to be all good there
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