Yeah, the few times it's seemed to make a difference was going up something really steep, leaned over to the side a bit as well, and the rear wheels get into some loose stuff at the bottom of the ledge and they both spin, and the unweighted front wheel spins. And I just sit there digging the rear wheels in deeper. Certainly a fairly rare situation, compared to the rear locker that helps every time the car is diagonally loaded much at all, which happens a LOT.

It depends how hard you wheel. For a lot of people, the locker is useless because all they do is fire roads or drive to the snow. When I was in Moab, my rear locker got me through most obstacles. Some lines I had to abandon and look for an alternate route because I was getting nowhere. It was those situations I wish I had the front locker to see if it would make the difference and get me over the obstacle.

So, a front locker is a lot like having a winch. You don't use it all that much, but when you need it, you're glad it's there. It's worth the expense in my opinion, but I do enough technical wheeling to justify it.

yeah, the places I was talkin about were in Moab as well. Rose Garden Hill, for one. When you're going up a ledge as steep as that, there's not a lot of weight on the front tires in any case, but I got the front up all the way, then got stopped when the rear wheels got to the bottom. And then I got to use my winch, lol.


And she got right on up it on the first go, albeit with a bit of wheelspin here and there.

I was certainly planning on a front locker, just waiting for some real world non-sponsored feedback on the Eaton e-locker. I sometimes suspect the FUD videos about it are from ARB sponsored people. I.e. Oh no, if you engage it while you're already spinning and stuck it might rotate a turn before engaging!!! Or it will unlock and relock if you reverse! Seems like more of a theoretical difference to try and drive a wedge into if you're selling ARB's.

4 months in no feedback, Slacker. j/k

Locker has kept me from having to winch, needing locker and winch is deep do do thankful for both.
Return on cost of locker a 10 yr time span, through friends of friends in Aus it has been done is closely compared to OE locker longevity.

Yeah, I saw the same videos comparing ARB Air Lockers to the Eaton E-Locker and the guys doing the videos definitely seemed like Fan Boys of ARB. That's cool you mountain bike as well. I've been to Moab many times to mountain bike and last year was my first time dong any 4wheeling there. Of course we brought our bikes. I made a video of it.

We've headed out there every year since 2000. Always for the mountain biking, slowly adding in more wheeling over time.

Yeah, ARB always gets hyped by the Australian 4x4 channels especially. The instant locking (in my opinion) is not worth the price jump. You also have to add an air pump, which I imagine puts more strain on your engine.

There is no doubt that the ARB is better at doing it's job. But the money can be better spent elsewhere.

When I fix the oil pan gasket on my 4runner, I hope to install a front e locker since the diff will come out anyway

On board air in Australia is a necessity so it makes the ARB more cost effective vs a Harrop/Eaton e-locker.

I put a lot of thought into which route to go reliability was priority.
Weeding through it simplicity made sense, so I had to find something for a
electric locker comparison. Cue the Toyota LC lockers rep.
Though there are differences close enough to say ah fug it I'm going electric roll the dice.

Edit: LC locker switch fit factory cutout next to factory Trac off switch location
below seat heater switches for clean look. All that's left to do is circuit for
front use only function.

ARBs also have lots of issues with air leaks. Not just air leaks in the hoses leading from the air compressor to the differential but internally inside the locker. There's seal issues. That's one of the reasons why I shied away from going with ARB. Eaton e-lockers have a good reputation for reliability and it was recommended to me by my buddy Nick who owns Yota1 Performance.

Seal issues on ARB's have been addressed with a new version of seal 3-4 years ago came out around time I purchased,
don't know the results. If I was looking would be worth checking into.
External supply leaks easy trail fix over all, solenoid or compressor chit the bed different story.

That's what I was planning on doing, an LC locker switch running the factory rear and the new front.

My wife did hers with another RR locker switch, and she added a pin and used an unused dash light location with a cut/spliced in instrument light gel, both suitably modified for the front by redoing the 'R':

That’s really cool, if I didn’t have a lunchbox locker in the front I’d definitely do this

Watched both ECGS videos over the past couple days. Great info, enough that I'd just order up diffs to my spec from them and drop them in.

I went with a Detroit True Trac in my rear diff. I'm a KISS kinda guy and the always available no air or electronics to worry about setup suited what I needed. I don't wheel much at all and definitely nothing super technical around here anyway, so YMMV.

Going for a front setup I'd do the electronic option personally. Air lines are asking for trouble IMO.

I've heard about issues recently with them. Possibly old stock? I don't know. I have heard a well-know diff rebuilder (not going to mention his name in case my 3rd party knowledge is wrong) that the ARBs are a hassle because of so many of them coming back due to the seal issues.