One thing no one ever mentions is cable actuated diff locks like an Ox locker (probably because they don't have them for our vehicles). It's like your rear hand brake, except for your differential. I'm assuming they're not popular for a reason.

I would be very interested to see someone do it and see how it worked for them. At one point Nissan was putting something similar on their GQ

The closest we can have is a manual cable for the factory rear e-locker. Toyota Tacoma/4runner E-Locker Conversion | chilkatdesigns

If those two openings are empty on your truck I wouldn't use LC switch.
If your thinking of square opening below RR switch to put LC switch, it isn't plug n play.
Where ever you put it requires a backing plate with correct size hole 3 correct size notches
in the correct location to mount securely. Look at back of switch you'll see what I mean.
Backing plate I made prototype stuff my career, took 4 tries and as many hours.
Was still less time than moving seat heater switches.
It easier to operate push button than rotate switch bouncing on trail.

Glad I'm not looking anymore.

As I've said in the past, having owned something like 8 ARBs over the last 25+ years....I'm not sure this is a fair characterization.

ARBs can have air leaks....improper install is usually the culprit, though someone here a few years back said ARB was having specific issues with the Toyota seals. I haven't had a new ARB in a Toyota diff in more than a decade now.....mostly in D60 fronts now...no issues. I do find it a bit suspect that ONLY Toyota diffs would have the issue. ARB is still the comp standard....which is saying something more than simply sponsorship dollars.

Eatons had a fair amount of failures when they first came out with the e-lockers, but to my knowledge have shored up those issues (mostly the way the first design located the acutator in a vulnerable position).

The way to avoid issues with ARBs is to 1) install it correctly. 2) Don't use that crap blue line they supply with it for air (use SS braided teflon lined instead) and 3) use an air switch instead of the electric switches that come with it.

Not sure what the market is like for Toyota diffs...but Yukon's Zip models have competition models whose default position is locked.....though up front, without full hydro, spooled would be far less than ideal.

All that said, my latest builds are all auto lockers.....mostly the Grizzly. Simpler, more economical, no forgetting to turn it on, etc. If I was building a cone dodger, I'd be doing selectables f/r (along with 4 wheel steer and portals most likely).

For a 7.5" Toyota diff though...this is all largely academic.

The cable adjustment always seemed to be problematic....especially with lots of flex built into the suspension.

In a nutshell plus the rest what I came away with after digging.