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Old 09-12-2022, 11:09 PM #16
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
It happens, I just know it the only chance you have of getting them out. Its the heat and cooling that will break the rust bond.

You just have to watch you don't go too far or you will just melt the metal away. Bright red is what you after. I do agree you have to just know from experience. so best to practice on another stud until you get the heat right correct.


I have actually seen the real professionals actually blow the studs out if they go through casting before.. I am no where near that caliber. If i tried that I probably just melt the casting header too..LOL..

If your handy enough, melting nuts off of a stud is easy. I’ve done it plenty. Now melting a stud out, that a lot harder. I’ve done it once. Much larger stud than what’s in these manifolds. And it was out in the open on a farm implement.

The tight work space makes it exponentially harder on the 4runner.
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Old 09-12-2022, 11:58 PM #17
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Originally Posted by Romeo1 View Post
If your handy enough, melting nuts off of a stud is easy. I’ve done it plenty. Now melting a stud out, that a lot harder. I’ve done it once. Much larger stud than what’s in these manifolds. And it was out in the open on a farm implement.

The tight work space makes it exponentially harder on the 4runner.
I melted nuts. Never even tried a stud as I know how hard that would be in a manifold stud that doesn't go through in a 3rd gen header still in the engine compartment.

The chances of me doing that now would be unsuccessful. I only know of 1 person that could possibly pull it off but being the slag has to come back instead of blowing through. It's just not worth the chance. I would shear it level first then drill it through as the last resort if I couldn't get it with a welded on nut.


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Old 09-13-2022, 12:38 AM #18
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Another method if torches are not around is to use an induction heater. The coil would go over the busted stud and make it glow red hot.

I don't know if that tool is rentable or not. However, they do come in handy.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 09-13-2022, 02:13 AM #19
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If I end up drilling these out completely, what size drill bit should I use?
What diameter and length for new bolts? should they be stainless? Should I use washers aswell?

and what about the bracket screw? It will not move! Does it have a nut on top or is it a threaded screw that goes through the cat flange and into the cross pipe?
Anyone have a part number for this screw?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated


Thank you
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Old 09-13-2022, 10:30 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkcharmer View Post
If I end up drilling these out completely, what size drill bit should I use?

What diameter and length for new bolts? should they be stainless? Should I use washers aswell?



and what about the bracket screw? It will not move! Does it have a nut on top or is it a threaded screw that goes through the cat flange and into the cross pipe?

Anyone have a part number for this screw?



Any feedback is greatly appreciated





Thank you
That bolt that is in the header the last time I checked was no longer available. [ sometimes the parts do come back other times they do not]

If you use a good quality stainless it will be reusable

As for the drill bit size etc. I do know know.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 09-13-2022, 11:03 AM #21
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Well, you’re going to have to start small and work your way up. Drill bit quality is essential here. I’m talking you have to have some high-end shit. Cheapo bits will just die quickly.
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Old 09-13-2022, 12:53 PM #22
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That stud should still be available, try part # 90116-10149 or enter your frame # at Japanese cars online catalogs you can prob figure out the bracket bolt there also if you find an image for the part.

Should be a 10mm stud either way so 3/8 drill bit max, but once you get close in size you might be able to get it with an ezout without snapping it. Lots of heat, lube, and the right size tap socket would be needed. Cobalt drill bits can handle a little more heat but even a basic hss bit should be fine as long as you use enough cutting oil, just no harbor freight bits. Some of the Chinese cobalt bits are more brittle than basic hss, and will snap easily which you def don't want, stick with US made bits or a big box brand. Drill at low-mid rpms for 10-15 seconds then re-oil. Get the right oil at Fastenal, or the plumbing aisle at home depot, motor oil isn't the same. If you go too close in drill bit sizing from one to the next the bit will sink too quickly and catch the edges and snap, see that happen a lot with new hires, so be aware of that and get ready to let off the trigger if it binds, and use a cordless drill if you have one.
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