09-11-2022, 11:18 PM
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#1
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Seized Spark Plug
Changed my plugs today and the 3 on the passenger side were all really tight coming out. I couldn't get one to budge. It would turn a couple turns and then just bind up. I'm planning on hitting it with penetrating oil and kind of loosening and tightening it to work the penetrating oil in. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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1997 SR5, 3.4L, Manual
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09-11-2022, 11:29 PM
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#2
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I'm not a plugologist or anything, but I change mine every 2 years. I'd first try the penetrating oil just as you are planning to do. Good luck.
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97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
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09-12-2022, 12:02 AM
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#3
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Thread it back in, install the other spark plugs, run the engine until it’s at operating temp then try to take the spark plug out.
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09-12-2022, 02:10 AM
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#4
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When it turns, does it turn freely? Or is it gritty feeling? I'd soak it in PB blaster, but also trying to remove it after running the engine to operating temp sounds like a good idea too. Maybe some dingus installed that plug when the engine was hot.
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09-12-2022, 08:39 AM
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#5
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It feels "squeaky" when I try to back it out like it's binding, no grittiness. All three on the passenger side felt that way but I was able to power out the front 2. At first I thought they were cross threaded but the new ones went in easy.
I'll try the operating temp thing and then hit it with penetrating oil if that doesn't do it. If I get it out should I let the engine cool back down before reinstalling?
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Last edited by texadelphia; 09-12-2022 at 08:41 AM.
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09-12-2022, 08:43 AM
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#6
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I'd start with your plan to soak it in penetrating oil and then work it very slightly back and forth.
Spray, wait and repeat.
Just went through this on my town car. I did it with the motor cold.
It has aluminum heads.
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Last edited by alumarine; 09-12-2022 at 08:46 AM.
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09-12-2022, 09:28 AM
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#7
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At least it's moving. Squeaking is a good sign, boogered threads aren't likely to squeak.
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09-12-2022, 09:59 AM
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#9
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Sounds like you are being careful which is good, not an area you want to have problems.
As spark plugs are cheap I change them out frequently to avoid any sticking issues.
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09-12-2022, 10:07 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
Thread it back in, install the other spark plugs, run the engine until it’s at operating temp then try to take the spark plug out.
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Agreed. Once its at OT spray some GOOD penetrating oil in around the plug. Kroil or PB Blaster works great.
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09-12-2022, 12:22 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
I mostly just anti seize them and never have issues after that myself. 
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk |
I've never felt comfortable with anti-seize when the plug manufacturers don't recommend using it and lubricated threads and dry threads have different torque specs.
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09-12-2022, 03:05 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texadelphia
I've never felt comfortable with anti-seize when the plug manufacturers don't recommend using it and lubricated threads and dry threads have different torque specs.
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Valid point.. However, I don't torque spark plugs. I snug them until they crush the crush washer and use a small handled ratchet to tighten then up. you have to drop the torque spec 25% if using anti seize.. If you don't your will over torque things..
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09-12-2022, 03:13 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Valid point.. However, I don't torque spark plugs. I snug them until they crush the crush washer and use a small handled ratchet to tighten then up. you have to drop the torque spec 25% if using anti seize.. If you don't your will over torque things..
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With aluminum heads I use a 1/4 drive and an adaptor.
Sometimes if the spark plug wasn’t sealed in the head the gasses and carbon can creep up 3-5 threads and really make it a bugger to remove.
In order for penetrating oil to work the plug needs to be backed out a thread or so.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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09-12-2022, 03:28 PM
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#15
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Always get the engine up to temp with aluminum heads.
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