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Old 09-21-2022, 12:53 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
The part I'd be more worried about is what to do with the yellow wires. It would really ruin your day if any sort of electrical current were to be sent through it. Maybe heat shrink some tubing on the pins so they are separated and wrap it up really good? Or would the pins need to be connected, as it might break the current flow in the event of an accident? Not really sure.

It shouldn't throw any codes as the yellow wires do not see any current and does not need to be grounded from what I remember. It only sees a current when the collision sensors are activated in an accident. But I've never actually tried it.
I'll tape them up, smart

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Old 09-21-2022, 02:20 PM #32
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Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
It doesn't retract worth a darn, I have to hand feed it. I'm over it lol

Dealer emailed me this morning, my new belt arrived.
Same with mine. 10 minute wash, overnight dry, perfect for the last 3+ years.

-Charlie
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Old 09-21-2022, 04:37 PM #33
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Same with mine. 10 minute wash, overnight dry, perfect for the last 3+ years.



-Charlie
How do we recommend washing belts?

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Old 09-21-2022, 06:12 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie View Post
How do we recommend washing belts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Unless your webbing is fraying, just pull it all the way out, clean it well, rinse it well and let it dry while pulled all the way out (clamp it to keep it from retracting, unbolt the top to get more belt for cleaning). You'll have a perfectly working belt when done.

-Charlie
See my earlier reply. Unbolt the top, pull it all the way out and clamp it, wash it with some all-purpose cleaner or detergent, rinse well, let it dry, then let it retract and bolt it back up. You only need to remove the top bolt - just sit a bucket in the back footwell and clean it there.

I've done it to multiple belts (first one frayed, plus other vehicles). All with great success. And no more previous-owner funk...

-Charlie
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:32 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
See my earlier reply. Unbolt the top, pull it all the way out and clamp it, wash it with some all-purpose cleaner or detergent, rinse well, let it dry, then let it retract and bolt it back up. You only need to remove the top bolt - just sit a bucket in the back footwell and clean it there.

I've done it to multiple belts (first one frayed, plus other vehicles). All with great success. And no more previous-owner funk...

-Charlie

Yep.

You can also remove the webbing completely. Remove retractable from car. Unwind belt. Use a screw driver or some other method of capturing the slit in the belt drum. Let it relax to the point of locking the tool/screwdriver against the body/frame of the retractable. Push webbing out, remove the pill or whatever they hell the call that plastic piece that wedges the webbing to the drum.

Wash in soap and water, installation is exactly reverse of disassembly. Don’t screw it up. You’ll have a hell of a time getting the clock spring set right again.

How To: Remove Seat Belt & Repair Toyota 4Runner, Hilux, Tarago. - YouTube
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Old 09-22-2022, 10:24 AM #36
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Okay, took a look at this last night

The replacement seat belt that I bought from the dealer is for a base model that does not have the explosive squib

If I unplug the yellow cable I get an SRS warning light on the dash. I'm sure I could figure out how to defeat this with a fusible link with the correct resistance that tricks the computer into thinking everything is properly connected, but who has the time?

I'll try washing the belt to see if it makes a difference, if not, I can always send it off to safety restore for a $100

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